Jeep JK Wrangler Rear Axle Shaft Removal & Installation Write-Up

Thank you everybody, and I apologize for the slight derail of the thread. I should have posted this in a new thread...

I disconnected the e-brake (duh) and I was able to pull out the shafts a little more, with the dust shield. My differential assembly is now out. Now I realize I don't have anything to keep the assembly in place while I try to loosen the ring gear bolts. Only a woodwork vise. Maybe I'll get an impact, and hopefully that will work. Oh, well, fun stuff...

Yeah, Eddie, I hear you... HOA's are crazy around here. Every way you turn, there's an HOA. Fees and restrictions always go up. I have an outdoor parking spot in a cul-de-sac, away from the street, quite private, plenty of space... but, no... not allowed...

For reference, did your differential assembly (carrier) come out with little effort or did you have to pry it out?
 
I disconnected the e-brake (duh) and I was able to pull out the shafts a little more, with the dust shield. My differential assembly is now out. Now I realize I don't have anything to keep the assembly in place while I try to loosen the ring gear bolts. Only a woodwork vise. Maybe I'll get an impact, and hopefully that will work. Oh, well, fun stuff...

A vice will work fine. Just be careful, don't overtighten it with the carrier on it. You can put a towel around the carrier to protect it a little from the metal vice teeth.

For reference, did your differential assembly (carrier) come out with little effort or did you have to pry it out?

You almost always will have to pry it out or tap on it with a rubber mallet. I recommend loosening the carrier caps a little but leaving the cap bolts in the differential housing several threads. Then when you pry it out, if you lose control of the carrier, it still stays in the caps without falling out and risking hitting the floor.
 
I don't think my little woodworking vise is up to the task. I'll have to figure out something else.

I had to pry it, but not much. I did it on the left side, on one of the ring gear bolts. Once it moved a little, I grabbed it and pulled out slightly. I could feel the shims on both sides moving, and I didn't want them to fall inside the differential while I pulled out the assembly. I wanted to know exactly what shims were on each side. So I pushed it back in a little and then made sure I grabbed the assembly by the shims on each side. Then I took it out slowly.

It's quite heavy and you are not in the most comfortable position crawled under the Jeep, so you have to be careful when it comes out entirely. It's easy to lose control. I almost did, in the most uncomfortable position, with arms stretched and on my right side. Years ago I was doing powerlifting, and I swear whatever residual strength I have left is what saved the assembly from dropping on concrete. Next time I do this job I'll know how to position myself better.
 
Step 18, reinstalling the caliper with the two bolts and torquing to 75 ft lbs. I couldn't use a torque wrench due to the tight space, so I put some red loctite on them and tightened them real hard with a regular wrench. I hope they'll be fine.
 
Thanks for the excellent write-up. My son and I finally finished replacing the rear axle shafts with new ones from East Coast Gear Supply. On step #18, you mention the caliper bolts should be torqued to 75 ft-lbs but your brake replacement write-up mentions 55 ft-lbs. Also, the JK torque reference guide mentions 55 ft-lbs.

One tip: if your Jeep has over 100K miles and/or lived in the salt belt (i.e. NJ) for the first few years of its life, you'll definitely NEED the slide hammer to remove the axle shafts. Once we rented the slide hammer we were able to perform all the steps without any further issues. :rock:
 
Shaft removal without puller

I could not get my axles out and was trying to find a way to pull them without a "puller".

I put the rotor back on backwards and banged on it with my big rubber mallet. Worked great, took a few strong hits though.
 
I could not get my axles out and was trying to find a way to pull them without a "puller".

I put the rotor back on backwards and banged on it with my big rubber mallet. Worked great, took a few strong hits though.

You hit your rotor with a hammer? :thinking: that doesn't sound smart.
 
You hit your rotor with a hammer? :thinking: that doesn't sound smart.
Possible:blush:, but I don't think that rubber mallet could do any damage. It's not like I came down on it like hell. It's been 5k miles now and no problems.
 
Installing my new axle shafts now. While removing the old retaining nuts one of the pressed in lugs started spinning. I can't get to the head of the lug to put vice grips on it. How can I get this nut off?
 
Installing my new axle shafts now. While removing the old retaining nuts one of the pressed in lugs started spinning. I can't get to the head of the lug to put vice grips on it. How can I get this nut off?

Welcome to WAL. My guess is that the axle has been replaced before. It's somewhat common for aftermarket shafts to do exactly what you're talking about. A lot of people re-use the OEM retainer for that exact reason. Either way. I would recommend tack welding the stud on to the retainer near where it broke. A mobile welder may be able to come over and assist if you don't have access to a welder.
 
Welcome to WAL. My guess is that the axle has been replaced before. It's somewhat common for aftermarket shafts to do exactly what you're talking about. A lot of people re-use the OEM retainer for that exact reason. Either way. I would recommend tack welding the stud on to the retainer near where it broke. A mobile welder may be able to come over and assist if you don't have access to a welder.

Thanks. For the advice. I just ended up using a cut off wheel and cutting the nut off.
 
Installing my new axle shafts now. While removing the old retaining nuts one of the pressed in lugs started spinning. I can't get to the head of the lug to put vice grips on it. How can I get this nut off?

Asks question, waits 90 minute, goes to town with angle grinder. Welcome to WAL
 
I'm on step 5 and trying to remove one of the axle backing plate nuts and the threaded stud is spinning with the nut. 3 of the 4 nuts removed okay but I'm stuck on this one that is spinning. Should I grind it off and replace the stud or dismantle the parking brake for access and try tack welding the head of the stud? Or other ideas?
 
I'm on step 5 and trying to remove one of the axle backing plate nuts and the threaded stud is spinning with the nut. 3 of the 4 nuts removed okay but I'm stuck on this one that is spinning. Should I grind it off and replace the stud or dismantle the parking brake for access and try tack welding the head of the stud? Or other ideas?

I've always tack-welded them. But do what you gotta do. Good luck.
 
I got to the point of prying out the axle shaft and it is giving me problems. I don't want to bend up the brake shield too much with the crow bar. Is a "pry bar" a better tool?

Going to re-attempt this tomorrow night along with replacing the rear rotors and pads since they are shot.

Thanks.
 
Second attempt was a no-go. I can get the brake assembly moving, but the axle shaft itself seems more difficult. Any suggestions?

I did replace the rear brake pads and rotors, thanks for that write up.
 
I got to the point of prying out the axle shaft and it is giving me problems. I don't want to bend up the brake shield too much with the crow bar. Is a "pry bar" a better tool?

Going to re-attempt this tomorrow night along with replacing the rear rotors and pads since they are shot.

Thanks.

Second attempt was a no-go. I can get the brake assembly moving, but the axle shaft itself seems more difficult. Any suggestions?

I did replace the rear brake pads and rotors, thanks for that write up.

Why are you prying it? I assume you're removing the axle? Rent or buy a slide hammer. You should only need to pull it a couple times.

Example of use:
https://youtu.be/Kvv-Cer5SXI
 
Top Bottom