fiend
Caught the Bug
Yep they are annoyingly fragile. Good news is that it’s a cheap part to replace.
Jeep JK Wrangler Rear Axle Shaft Removal & Installation Write-Up
- Thread starter wayoflife
- Start date
Yep they are annoyingly fragile. Good news is that it’s a cheap part to replace.
jdofmemi
Active Member
Next question
So I got the bulkhead fitting out, wires off, and ready to pull the carrier.
Caps loosened, but still there with a couof threads to catch it when it comes out.
Now the carrier won't budge. Do I need some special tool to get it out? I searched, but could not find a write-up on this.
TIA for the help
So I got the bulkhead fitting out, wires off, and ready to pull the carrier.
Caps loosened, but still there with a couof threads to catch it when it comes out.
Now the carrier won't budge. Do I need some special tool to get it out? I searched, but could not find a write-up on this.
TIA for the help
fiend
Caught the Bug
Jeep JK Wrangler Rear Axle Shaft Removal & Installation Write-Up
I assume you pulled out the shafts. Carrier won’t come out otherwise.
The carrier will be in there pretty tight due to the carrier bearing preload. Use a small pry bar to get it out. Put a soft material piece against the housing face to avoid gouges, and pry off that. You can use a block of wood. I use a 1x1 piece of square aluminum tubing. Pry a little at a time, switching from side to side. It will come out. You may need to remove the bearing caps entirely so you can get the pry bar into the carrier. Be ready to catch it. It is heavy. Also be ready to catch the bearing races and shims, which will come out too. If you never had differential work done before, you’ll probably just have one thick shim per side. If you have had differential work done (eg gear change), then you may have a stack of shims on each side. Either way, keep track of which shim or shim stack was left and which one was right.
I have found this write up to be helpful.
https://offroadwarehouse.com/attachment/111200-Installation Instructions
I assume you pulled out the shafts. Carrier won’t come out otherwise.
The carrier will be in there pretty tight due to the carrier bearing preload. Use a small pry bar to get it out. Put a soft material piece against the housing face to avoid gouges, and pry off that. You can use a block of wood. I use a 1x1 piece of square aluminum tubing. Pry a little at a time, switching from side to side. It will come out. You may need to remove the bearing caps entirely so you can get the pry bar into the carrier. Be ready to catch it. It is heavy. Also be ready to catch the bearing races and shims, which will come out too. If you never had differential work done before, you’ll probably just have one thick shim per side. If you have had differential work done (eg gear change), then you may have a stack of shims on each side. Either way, keep track of which shim or shim stack was left and which one was right.
I have found this write up to be helpful.
https://offroadwarehouse.com/attachment/111200-Installation Instructions
Last edited:
Pull the bearing caps, your carrier won't just fall out. It'll be in there good and being that you most likely don't have a case spreader, you'll need a pry bar to encourage it out.
Exodus 4x4
New member
It’s a pain in the ass to get out the first time and like others have said, make damn sure you keep track of the shims. I’ll add that you need to clean EVERYTHING thoroughly to make sure you get all the metal out of that diff housing. Nothing kills e-lockers faster than metal shavings.
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Judesign
Caught the Bug
Lol there is no worse feeling than freeing the carrier only to hear shims clang around the garage floor. Ask me how I know.
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WJCO
Meme King
Make sure you mark the caps too. They have to go back in the EXACT same spot.
Exodus 4x4
New member
They are already marked, but yes he needs to make sure to put them back where they go.
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jdofmemi
Active Member
Thanks to all for the help
I do know to mark the caps, and them, along with the shims have to go back exactly how they came out.
I have worked mostly on Toyotas, and they are easier, since you get the whole chunk up where it is easy to get to. Most had Detroit Lockers or Lock Right, so the broken shaft could be driven out from the other side.
Now I'm learning about all the differences in the Jeep.
The Jeep has been regeared, 5.13s, and I can see multiple small shims on each side. I am concerned now that once I get them out, I won't be able to get them all crammed back in without a case speader.
I found one on Amazon for $169, but the good ones seem to be around $500, so I am concerned about the cheap one doing the job.
From what I understand, as long as I done mess with the pinion, and put all the shims back as they were that the set up will be the same as it is now. Is that correct?
There are no big slivers or flakes in there, but lots of tiny ones. It looks like metal flake paint. Lots of brake clean and rags are in order.
Other than the PITA getting the carrier out and back it is one of the least dramatic issues in my 4 wheeling career.
I will keep you posted on how it goes
I do know to mark the caps, and them, along with the shims have to go back exactly how they came out.
I have worked mostly on Toyotas, and they are easier, since you get the whole chunk up where it is easy to get to. Most had Detroit Lockers or Lock Right, so the broken shaft could be driven out from the other side.
Now I'm learning about all the differences in the Jeep.
The Jeep has been regeared, 5.13s, and I can see multiple small shims on each side. I am concerned now that once I get them out, I won't be able to get them all crammed back in without a case speader.
I found one on Amazon for $169, but the good ones seem to be around $500, so I am concerned about the cheap one doing the job.
From what I understand, as long as I done mess with the pinion, and put all the shims back as they were that the set up will be the same as it is now. Is that correct?
There are no big slivers or flakes in there, but lots of tiny ones. It looks like metal flake paint. Lots of brake clean and rags are in order.
Other than the PITA getting the carrier out and back it is one of the least dramatic issues in my 4 wheeling career.
I will keep you posted on how it goes
WJCO
Meme King
Put the left shim stack in first, then install the carrier. Then push the carrier over to the left, then pound the right shim stack in place with a rubber mallet and brass punch. You should be able to get them in but it will be tight.
jdofmemi
Active Member
Update
Well, I finally got a chance to work on the Jeep again. Work has had me running crazy.
I got just the right size pry bar to encourage the chunk to come out, and was able to corral the shims before the ran off.
The offending axle stub came out by gently tapping the carrier in the right direction. At least it was not wedged in too bad.
Now to clean up and re assemble everything. That will have to wait for another day.
Well, I finally got a chance to work on the Jeep again. Work has had me running crazy.
I got just the right size pry bar to encourage the chunk to come out, and was able to corral the shims before the ran off.
The offending axle stub came out by gently tapping the carrier in the right direction. At least it was not wedged in too bad.
Now to clean up and re assemble everything. That will have to wait for another day.
Attachments
jdofmemi
Active Member
Just thought I would let you know that surgery was a success.
I finally had time to finish. Had to press on the bearing on to the new axle, took some time since someone helped themselves to my plates for the press
Got the axles in, everything hooked back up and a test drive. No abnormal noise, and the locker engages like it should. Life is good again
I still have lights, even after replacing the bad speed sensor, but the connector felt funny, so now I think I will replace both rear ones.
I finally had time to finish. Had to press on the bearing on to the new axle, took some time since someone helped themselves to my plates for the press
Got the axles in, everything hooked back up and a test drive. No abnormal noise, and the locker engages like it should. Life is good again
I still have lights, even after replacing the bad speed sensor, but the connector felt funny, so now I think I will replace both rear ones.
Glad I could be of help to you
