Short arms vs long arms

whispike

whispike

Member
wayoflife said:
This is correct ^^^ Proper caster will help prevent a flighty feel at highway speeds.



At 3" of lift, a drag link flip/front track bar relocation bracket will allow you to restore proper steering geometry and that will improve handling. It is important to do both at the same time.



In re-reading the thread, I did see that the OP has 3" coils now. This is something that is unclear to me now as well.
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Yes I have 3 inch coils right now and I was thinking of just maybe adding the arms to what I've got already. The shop was saying the same but was also saying if I spent just a little more on the complete 4 inch kit I'd be getting more bang for my buck since it it such a complete kit.

Right now the 3 Inc lift I have on there is a very basic Teraflex kit that was installed by the dealership.


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Necro

Necro

New member
1.jpg I'm running the Currie 4" entry level lift. It only came with Currie uppers and reuses the factory lowers. With the correct shocks it will flex pretty decent. I've only had the lift on for a few months though, and I've only wheeled it hard twice so far so I can't comment on the longevity of the factory arms when combined with the Curries. I did wheel a bunch on the factory arms before I lifted and they seem to be holding up ok so far. I've only got 15k miles on my Jeep though so that might change after a few more trips off road.
 

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wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
whispike said:
Yes I have 3 inch coils right now and I was thinking of just maybe adding the arms to what I've got already. The shop was saying the same but was also saying if I spent just a little more on the complete 4 inch kit I'd be getting more bang for my buck since it it such a complete kit.

Right now the 3 Inc lift I have on there is a very basic Teraflex kit that was installed by the dealership.]
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Well, the 3" TeraFlex coils you have on now are most likely yielding you over 4" of actual lift. In my opinion, they ride on the firm side as well and so to that, there would be some merit to switching out to a different and more complete kit. The only thing I don't like is when shops push products. Not that I can blame them but in my experience, they will push what they have in stock and/or can make the most profit off of - they are after all, a business.
 
whispike

whispike

Member
wayoflife said:
Well, the 3" TeraFlex coils you have on now are most likely yielding you over 4" of actual lift. In my opinion, they ride on the firm side as well and so to that, there would be some merit to switching out to a different and more complete kit. The only thing I don't like is when shops push products. Not that I can blame them but in my experience, they will push what they have in stock and/or can make the most profit off of - they are after all, a business.
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I was thinking the same that's why I wanted to ask here, especially since for around the same amount of money I could do Evo bolt on coilovers.


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wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
whispike said:
I was thinking the same that's why I wanted to ask here, especially since for around the same amount of money I could do Evo bolt on coilovers.
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If you don't mind me asking, what shop are you using?

If EVO bolt on coil overs is something you've been considering, I personally would go that route instead.
 
Mike_JK_Houston_711

Mike_JK_Houston_711

New member
I am sitting just under 4" on coilovers running just front lower RK arms and the rest stock. When I get new arms, I'll be going with a full set of Currie shorts. You def don't need long arms. And it will save you a ton of money on install too.


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Necro

Necro

New member
whispike said:
I was thinking the same that's why I wanted to ask here, especially since for around the same amount of money I could do Evo bolt on coilovers.


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Click to expand...

How much are they asking for the Currie lift? Savvy are good people in my experience, I've ran their gear on multiple TJ's. Currie is also quality gear that I have ran on multiple TJ's and on my JK. If the Evo bolt on coilover kit is cheaper than the Currie lift then you must be talking about the full replace everything and then some super expensive Currie kit with front and rear antirocks, Currectlync steering, driveshafts, and front and rear track bars etc... ? There are a few different levels of the Currie lifts, including just buying the arms as a complete set.

What is your immediate goal that you're trying to achieve right now?
 
whispike

whispike

Member
Necro said:
How much are they asking for the Currie lift? Savvy are good people in my experience, I've ran their gear on multiple TJ's. Currie is also quality gear that I have ran on multiple TJ's and on my JK. If the Evo bolt on coilover kit is cheaper than the Currie lift then you must be talking about the full replace everything and then some super expensive Currie kit with front and rear antirocks, Currectlync steering, driveshafts, and front and rear track bars etc... ? There are a few different levels of the Currie lifts, including just buying the arms as a complete set.

What is your immediate goal that you're trying to achieve right now?
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All together around $3800 with installation. The main kit is $2400 with around another $600 for front and rear track bars. The rest would be installation. No antirocks, I'm fine with my no limits disconnect right now. IMG_1475968228.500362.jpg



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whispike

whispike

Member
Necro said:
How much are they asking for the Currie lift? Savvy are good people in my experience, I've ran their gear on multiple TJ's. Currie is also quality gear that I have ran on multiple TJ's and on my JK. If the Evo bolt on coilover kit is cheaper than the Currie lift then you must be talking about the full replace everything and then some super expensive Currie kit with front and rear antirocks, Currectlync steering, driveshafts, and front and rear track bars etc... ? There are a few different levels of the Currie lifts, including just buying the arms as a complete set.

What is your immediate goal that you're trying to achieve right now?
Click to expand...

Right now I'm having major rubbing on my pinch seam which is shredding my tires so I would like to move my rear axle to be more centered in the wheel well. I don't think trimming alone would solve the problem unless I cut off a heck of a lot. Also trying to remedy the flighty steering I'm having at highway speeds, along with my front axel being shifted over a inch to the passenger side. Offroad performance right now is fine.
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
whispike said:
Right now I'm having major rubbing on my pinch seam which is shredding my tires so I would like to move my rear axle to be more centered in the wheel well. I don't think trimming alone would solve the problem unless I cut off a heck of a lot. Also trying to remedy the flighty steering I'm having at highway speeds, along with my front axel being shifted over a inch to the passenger side. Offroad performance right now is fine.
Click to expand...

A grinder, sawsall and a bfh will give you all the clearance you need.


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