Tent trailer size? & Build thread

CalSgt

CalSgt

Hooked
I've read through several of the trailer threads but haven't seen dimensions discussed very much.

What would be ideal for a capable off road trailer for a RTT?

Ive read that tongue to axle length that matches the wheelbase of the tow vehicle is supposed to tow nice, I plan to split the difference between the WB of a JL & JLU but haven't welded anything up yet. I will start cutting everything tomorrow

I'm starting with a Coleman diesel generator & light tower trailer from an old mine, I ordered some 5on5 hubs, 17 inch wheels that match the backspacing of my KMC's and some milestar AT 37's

Original frame dimensions
128" L (65" box & 63" tongue) x 60" W (box only) axle width is 71.5" hub to hub

IMG_3789.JPG
IMG_3784.jpg
IMG_3785.jpg

The plate that the generator was mounted to was 3/16" thick, cutting it out took about 70 lbs off of the weight..
IMG_3786.jpg

One frame rail rotted out so I picked up some matching steel to replace it
IMG_3788.jpg


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CalSgt said:
I've read through several of the trailer threads but haven't seen dimensions discussed very much.

What would be ideal for a capable off road trailer for a RTT?

Ive read that tongue to axle length that matches the wheelbase of the tow vehicle is supposed to tow nice, I plan to split the difference between the WB of a JL & JLU but haven't welded anything up yet. I will start cutting everything tomorrow

I'm starting with a Coleman diesel generator & light tower trailer from an old mine, I ordered some 5on5 hubs, 17 inch wheels that match the backspacing of my KMC's and some milestar AT 37's

Original frame dimensions
128" L (65" box & 63" tongue) x 60" W (box only) axle width is 71.5" hub to hub

View attachment 344178
View attachment 344179
View attachment 344180

The plate that the generator was mounted to was 3/16" thick, cutting it out took about 70 lbs off of the weight..
View attachment 344181

One frame rail rotted out so I picked up some matching steel to replace it
View attachment 344182


View attachment 344184
View attachment 344185
Click to expand...

Most RTT’s are 4x6 for the closed dimension. I’m in the process of building a trailer now and that’s the size box I went with but since you already have a fixed axle width, I would base the dimension on that. I’ve read the same about tongue length and am doing a telescoping tongue so I can adjust it however I want for different vehicles and such. Might be a good option for you as well. Plus I can remove the the tongue to shorten it for storage as well.


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Sweet build. I’ve been kicking around a trailer build but will be mainly used for baseball equipment. 4x6 seems to be ideal size (cause the internet said so). I assume your doing a spring over. I might use YJ springs on mine.
 
Speedy_RCW said:
Most RTT’s are 4x6 for the closed dimension. I’m in the process of building a trailer now and that’s the size box I went with but since you already have a fixed axle width, I would base the dimension on that. I’ve read the same about tongue length and am doing a telescoping tongue so I can adjust it however I want for different vehicles and such. Might be a good option for you as well. Plus I can remove the the tongue to shorten it for storage as well.


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Click to expand...

I've built a couple boat trailers many years ago...all had collapsing tongues so we could get the boat off at low tide...basically a smaller box sliding into a larger box, with a large steel pin with a handle welded on to go through the top holes to shorten or lengthen tongue...
 
Originally Posted by Speedy_RCW View Post
Most RTT’s are 4x6 for the closed dimension. I’m in the process of building a trailer now and that’s the size box I went with but since you already have a fixed axle width, I would base the dimension on that. I’ve read the same about tongue length and am doing a telescoping tongue so I can adjust it however I want for different vehicles and such. Might be a good option for you as well. Plus I can remove the the tongue to shorten it for storage as well.
Click to expand...

I did end up welding the frame at 4x6, too busy to take pictures today. A bunch of the frame was pretty gross and unusable, I might as well have started from scratch I used one cross member from the original frame so far.


Brute
I've built a couple boat trailers many years ago...all had collapsing tongues so we could get the boat off at low tide...basically a smaller box sliding into a larger box, with a large steel pin with a handle welded on to go through the top holes to shorten or lengthen tongue...
Click to expand...

The tongue isn't welded in yet so I might end up figuring out that whole collapsible set up

TOPLESS
Sweet build. I’ve been kicking around a trailer build but will be mainly used for baseball equipment. 4x6 seems to be ideal size (cause the internet said so). I assume your doing a spring over. I might use YJ springs on mine.
Click to expand...

I think I will buy Timbren axle less suspension but will need to wait for my wheels & tires to show up to figure out what offset & lift height will be needed. They will narrow the overall width by at least 7".

I am thinking about the Lock 'N' Roll hitch set up too.

I haven't heard much about the Timbren axles or the lock n roll but some high end trailers are running them so I was guessing they're ok
 
Tent trailer size? & Build thread

CalSgt said:
I did end up welding the frame at 4x6, too busy to take pictures today. A bunch of the frame was pretty gross and unusable, I might as well have started from scratch I used one cross member from the original frame so far.




The tongue isn't welded in yet so I might end up figuring out that whole collapsible set up



I think I will buy Timbren axle less suspension but will need to wait for my wheels & tires to show up to figure out what offset & lift height will be needed. They will narrow the overall width by at least 7".

I am thinking about the Lock 'N' Roll hitch set up too.

I haven't heard much about the Timbren axles or the lock n roll but some high end trailers are running them so I was guessing they're ok
Click to expand...

The collapsible tongue is pretty easy. Just use receiver stock as the tongue and 2” tubing to slide in. I can snap you some pictures tomorrow if you want. I’m using the Timbren axleless and lock-n-roll as well. I’m using pn ASR1THDS03. Not sure what you planned to go with but let me know if you need any measurements or anything. You can also find all the specs online.


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Speedy_RCW said:
The collapsible tongue is pretty easy. Just use receiver stock as the tongue and 2” tubing to slide in. I can snap you some pictures tomorrow if you want. I’m using the Timbren axleless and lock-n-roll as well. I’m using pn ASR1THDS03. Not sure what you planned to go with but let me know if you need any measurements or anything. You can also find all the specs online.


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Click to expand...

I'll hit the steel yard on Monday for some receiver stock...

I've been reading on the other parts, the one tonne timbren's you have were the ones i was looking at.

ETA: Does your trailer have 37's?
 
CalSgt said:
I'll hit the steel yard on Monday for some receiver stock...

I've been reading on the other parts, the one tonne timbren's you have were the ones i was looking at.

ETA: Does your trailer have 37's?
Click to expand...

No I went with 33’s for a couple reasons. I didn’t know how the Timbrens would hold up to the heavier tire, 33’s are much cheaper (I also went with 15” wheels) even with 33’s there is more than enough ground clearance. Downside is I’ll be carrying an extra spare. If you go 37’s and the trailer isn’t super heavy you may want the spindles with no lift or you’ll have to use a raised hitch on the Jeep. My tongue is angled down more than I like but I won’t know exactly how much until I get the rest of the steel put on.


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Speedy_RCW said:
No I went with 33’s for a couple reasons. I didn’t know how the Timbrens would hold up to the heavier tire, 33’s are much cheaper (I also went with 15” wheels) even with 33’s there is more than enough ground clearance. Downside is I’ll be carrying an extra spare. If you go 37’s and the trailer isn’t super heavy you may want the spindles with no lift or you’ll have to use a raised hitch on the Jeep. My tongue is angled down more than I like but I won’t know exactly how much until I get the rest of the steel put on.


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Click to expand...

If I get the ones with no lift my frame will sit almost 24" off the floor unloaded, the hitch on my jeep sits at about 22" from the ground. I think that will probably be close enough.
 
Got the tire mounted but wasn't able to get them beaded up... They sure kicked my ass, I hadn't mounted tires by hand except beadlocks in like 20 years. First one took 50 minutes second one took only 10 minutes.

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Got the tires finally beaded up, had to use the unregulated line from the big compressor 275 PSI. Rolled them up to the trailer to see how they are going to look.

Got the sheetmetal for the front corners done & the side door framed and welded.

Ordered fenders, taillights, side marker lights, and the Lock'N'Roll hitch parts,

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IMG_3804.jpg

Hoping to get the side sheetmetal finished tomorrow...
 
CalSgt said:
Got the tires finally beaded up, had to use the unregulated line from the big compressor 275 PSI. Rolled them up to the trailer to see how they are going to look.

Got the sheetmetal for the front corners done & the side door framed and welded.

Ordered fenders, taillights, side marker lights, and the Lock'N'Roll hitch parts,

View attachment 344878

View attachment 344879

Hoping to get the side sheetmetal finished tomorrow...
Click to expand...

Good work. Did you ever decide on suspension/axle?


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CalSgt said:
Yup... Ordered the Timbren one tonne's with the wide spindles and no lift, should put the spindle 6 inches below the frame, going to sit close to where its at for height. The frame sits at 24" from the ground in the picture.
Click to expand...

Sweet. I gotta look into the camber specs for trailers. Timbren gives no guidance on it except that camber is built in. It’s a visible amount on mine so I’m curious if it’s too much. You have any info on correct camber?


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Speedy_RCW said:
Sweet. I gotta look into the camber specs for trailers. Timbren gives no guidance on it except that camber is built in. It’s a visible amount on mine so I’m curious if it’s too much. You have any info on correct camber?


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Click to expand...

No... No idea, I've read the install instructions and they speak to toe adjustments but nothing of camber

ETA: I just looked again and they say to use shims on the spindle bolts if you need camber adjustment, I was guessing trailer tires would have a neutral camber
 
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Didn't get near enough done today... Mocked up a door for the side & patched one hole in the sheetmetal

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I warped the door when I welded the sheetmetal to the frame, I don't know if I can salvage it
IMG_3805.jpg
 
My dad got a little done this week while was at work

scabbed in one of the side panels and fabbed a new side door

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