My Dynomax Quiet Crawler Modified Install
- Thread starter aermotor
- Start date
rmilobrown
Member
Yup, that looks Great AND functional! I really want to get rid of this fat ass before Moab in May!
HAPPYTRAILS
HAPPYTRAILS
CookieMonsterJK
New member
That yellow sticker still gives off a smell after 600 Miles
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Dirtrider....
Member
i noticed Flat Top welded the pieces together...is this a weld or bolt together system?
DWiggles
Caught the Bug
Either. I welded mine too. Just because I didn't want to use 10 clamps.
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DZZ Build thread
Flat Top
Member
Flat Top
Member
Clamps will work fine, I just wanted to try out my new gas setup for my welder.
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Dirtrider....
Member
The part #52561 Intermediate Pipe... is that piece needed if i'm having a muffler shop install the Muffler and Bullet muffler? Does the Intermediate pipe make the install that much easier since it's pre-bent?
Flat Top
Member
Yes, the #52561 Intermediate Pipe is just in front of the muffler and drops the line down to just above the frame rails. However on mine the hanger was in the incorrect location and I needed to cut off and re-weld to position. Of course the other possibility is that I'm and idiot and spatially challenged. :crazyeyes::crazyeyes:
DWiggles
Caught the Bug
That, or your muffler is backwards... (Either that, or MINE is backwards) :cheesy: :clap2: :crazyeyes:
:idontknow: it sounds fine to me... :beer: :cheesy:
PRO TIP! The muffler IS covered by clear plastic film... TAKE IT OFF before it burns on and stinks to high hell... ask me how I know... :doh:
Great write-up!
If I use part #55428 (Pipe) above will I still need to both parts #52561 (Pipe) from OP's design or does 55428 replace 52561 for pushing the tailpipe past the rear axle?
Also if I use 55428 will I still need a 2x 5" piece of 2.5" OD exhaust pipe from OP's design? This is kit will fit on stock or lifted JKU's correct?
Thanks!
Dirtrider....
Member
with this install... does it retain the factory catalytic converter?
WJCO
Meme King
Yes..........
Thegreenmachine12
Member
everything I’ve heard around about this exhaust setup has told me that it is one of the best in the business. Thank you for this thread!
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Gobicon2017
New member
Just finished installing this modified quiet crawler and I’m happy with the fit and finish. I changed out mufflers and went with the round ultra flow SS part number 17263. It tucked up pretty well. Sound is great. Need to finish up tomorrow. I’m gonna cut the old tailpipe and have it dump just behind the axle so I can reuse the factory exhaust hanger.
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Sharkey
Word Ninja
Ok, I've read the variety of threads and parts lists on this and it seems like there are two different routes (pre-axle or post-axle dump). I'm just trying to make sure I get everything needed depending on which way my son goes.
Here is the pre-axle dump part list. The only thing additional would be two straight pieces of 5" long 2.5" O.D. pipe, which might be something like $40 (I haven't found a part number for those pieces yet).
Here is the post-axle dump part list. Nothing else needed and this is basically the old Dynomax kit, part for part.
Am I missing anything obvious that anyone can see?
Here is the pre-axle dump part list. The only thing additional would be two straight pieces of 5" long 2.5" O.D. pipe, which might be something like $40 (I haven't found a part number for those pieces yet).
Here is the post-axle dump part list. Nothing else needed and this is basically the old Dynomax kit, part for part.
Am I missing anything obvious that anyone can see?
notnalc68
That dude from Mississippi
That looks right to me. When I changed from pre-axle, to post-axle dump, I didn’t use an exhaust tip. I cut the rear pipe.
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notnalc68
That dude from Mississippi
I didn’t have it welded, and it kept working around and rattling. It would take time and a lot of miles to do it, but it would start hitting something. The over axle pipe, added another hanger to hold it.
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DWiggles
Caught the Bug
You dont really need the straight pipe between unless you are planning to clamp it together. I'ed save the $100 ish (the cost of the clamps and pipe) and just weld it together or have an exhaust shop so it. It will likely cost around $60...so basically save $30 worst case.
This will put the bullet right between the evap and the frame rail, then just the turn down and a hanger up to the last factory hanger on the drivers side before the axle. Easy.
If you go the other way, (post axle dump) idk. I didn't do that.
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DZZ Build thread
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