Heavy Duty Axle Differential Cover Installation Write-Up

wayoflife

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Installing a set of heavy duty replacement differential covers is one of the cheapest modifications you can do to your Jeep that'll help it look cool and give it some extra protection. They are also of the easiest to install and can be done in about 15-30 minutes an axle. This write-up outlines what you'll need to install most aftermarket differential covers as well as show you how to do it. While this write-up is written in regards to a front Dana 44 axle, the process is exactly the same for the rear and even for a Dana 30 or Dana 35. The only thing that is different is the cover being used.

What You Will Need
• 13mm Socket
• 3/8″ Drive Ratchet
• Torque Wrench
• 1/2" or 13mm Socket
• 1/4″ Allen Bit (SOLID covers and the like)
• H14 Hex Bit (SOLID covers and the like)
• 12-Point 5/16" Socket (Dynatrac covers)
• 3″ Ratchet Extension
• Dead Blow Hammer
• Gasket Scraper
• Brake Cleaner
• Oil Catch Pan
• Paper Towels
• 2-Quarts 75W90 Gear Oil or heavier if you tow or have a high gear ratio
• The Right Stuff RTV by Permatex


Instructions
This is a pic of all the things you will get with a SOLID Dana 44 differential cover. Different covers will come with different bolts and even if yours comes with basic RTV, I would highly recommend that you use The Right Stuff by Permatex instead. Make sure that you have everything in the list above before you begin this project.
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1. If you have a Jeep JK Wrangler, begin this install by using the square head of a 3/8″ Drive ratchet to remove the fill bolt from the differential cover as shown. If you do not have a JK Dana 30 or Dana 44 axle, skip down to Step #5.
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2. Place an oil catch pan underneath your differential and then, using a 3/8″ drive ratchet with a 3″ extension attached to it, remove the drain bolt from the base of the housing.
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3. Allow your Jeep JK Wrangler’s differential to drain completely before proceeding.
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4. The drain bolt on a Jeep JK Wrangler differential is magnetic and the inside end of it should be fuzzy with fine iron filings. Check for any chunks of metal (as that would indicate you have problems that need to be addressed) and then use a paper towel and some brake cleaner to wipe the bolt clean.
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5. Using a 1/2" or 13mm socket, remove 9 of the 10 bolts on your differential cover and leave the last one on top.
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6. Loosen but DO NOT remove the last bolt on top your differential cover as shown in this pic. This will keep the cover from falling during the next step.
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7. Using a dead blow hammer, strike the side of your Jeep JK Wrangler’s differential cover until it separates from the housing. Once the cover is free, remove remaining bolt and cover.
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8. Using a gasket scraper or flat razor, thoroughly clean off the remaining RTV gasket material clinging to the mating surface of your differential housing. Be mindful to not damage the mating surface and try not to let the removed gasket material fall inside the differential.
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9. Using brake cleaner, thoroughly spray down the entire inside of your differential.
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10. Using brake cleaner, thoroughly spray the inside of your new aftermarket differential cover as well as the mating surface and wipe it clean with a clean rag or paper towel.
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11. Draw a continuous 1/4″ bead of RTV along the entire mating surface of your new differential cover as shown. While this write-up shows the use of basic high temperature RTV, I would again highly recommend that you use The Right Stuff by Permatex as it will provide a much better and stronger gasket. I personally would not recommend that you use a reusable gasket like a Lube-Locker.
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12. Carefully place your new heavy duty differential cover onto your differential housing making sure not to move it around too much. Then, fasten it in place using the new bolts provided with the cover. Make sure to fasten the bolts in a criss-cross star like pattern and then tighten them down to 25-30 ft. lbs. of torque. Depending on the type of bolts you received with your new cover, you may need to use a 1/4″ allen bit (SOLID type covers as shown), a 12-point 5/16" socket (Dynatrac covers) or 1/2" socket for factory type bolts. NOTE: It is very important that you do NOT over torque these bolts and that installation of the cover should be done within 5 minutes after applying the RTV.
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13. If you have a Jeep JK Wrangler, use a 3/8″ drive ratchet with a 3″ extension to reinstall the drain bolt back on to the base of your differential. Tighten this bolt to 25 ft. lbs. of torque.
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14. Fill up your differential with the factory specified amount of gear oil. On a Jeep JK Wrangler front Dana 44, that will be 2.7 pints (1.35 quarts) and on a rear Dana 44, 4.75 pints (2.375 quarts). If you are unsure how much you'll need in your axle, a good rule of thumb to follow is that you only need as much gear oil as is needed to get it to reach the bottom of your axle tubes. You can use a zip tie bent in a 90° angle to act as a dip stick to help you know where that is.

IF you have a limited slip differential, you will need to add friction modifier into your differential or, be sure to use a synthetic gear oil as it will have friction modifier in it. DO NOT be tempted to fill up your differential with anymore gear oil than is needed or else it will get pumped out of the breather tube and make a big mess.
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15. Some covers like SOLID use a new fill bolt that will require the use of a H-14 hex bit to secure. Others will just use a standard bolt and all you'll need to install it is a 3/8" drive ratchet. Tighten this bolt to 25 ft. lbs. of torque.
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That’s it! Not only will your Jeep's differentials have a cool new look to them, they will also provide additional protection from the rocks! Please let me know if you have any questions and don’t forget to take your used gear oil to your local recycling center (PepBoys, Autozone or the like).
 
i never thought of just sticking the rachet inside the fill plug to remove it i always used a bolt and nut and grabbed a gear wrench and went to down lol :doh: also should i change the fluid in my d44s yet? jeep has 4500 miles on it now wanted to change diff covers soon anyway but what is the rule of thumb when it comes to changing the fluid?
 
Just curious, Eddie: Why don't you like LubeLocker gaskets?
As I see it, the biggest benefits are that you're less likely to start seeping fluid if you bounce your diff cover off of rocks and that you don't have to worry about cleaning old gasket material off or putting new stuff on if you're doing field repairs (or if you have to open up your housing for any reason).
I'm sure there are downsides (aside from cost), but I haven't really heard any beyond "that's not they way my dad taught me to do it". Personal preference is a perfectly good reason for avoiding LubeLockers, but I'd really like to know if there's a technical or practical reason as well.
 
Just curious, Eddie: Why don't you like LubeLocker gaskets?
As I see it, the biggest benefits are that you're less likely to start seeping fluid if you bounce your diff cover off of rocks and that you don't have to worry about cleaning old gasket material off or putting new stuff on if you're doing field repairs (or if you have to open up your housing for any reason).
I'm sure there are downsides (aside from cost), but I haven't really heard any beyond "that's not they way my dad taught me to do it". Personal preference is a perfectly good reason for avoiding LubeLockers, but I'd really like to know if there's a technical or practical reason as well.

From what I have seen, leaks are typically caused by the lip of diff cover catching on rocks, not from bouncing off of them. A Lube Locker will allow for a gap between the housing and cover and enough so that rocks will have an easier time of catching on it and cause a leak. Please note that I am not simply recommending that you use a Basic RTV but rather, a specific one called The Right Stuff as it is extremely strong when installed correctly. It is so strong that removing the cover in the future can prove to be difficult even with all the bolts off. In all my years of wheeling and experimenting with different gasket solutions, this is the only one that I have found to work the best and why I recommend it. If you're personal preference is to use a Lube Locker, by all means, please don't let me stand in your way. :yup:
 
After dragging my rear dif on the gate keeper entering the Rubicon trail. I regretted not having some aftermarket cover or even some type of cage. After smacking the cover back down flat with a hammer and mallet. The sealer "THE RIGHT STUFF" kept it from leaking even after the cover was pealed away. Here is a pic of what you don't want to find yourself doing at the beginning of any trail.
 

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From what I have seen, leaks are typically caused by the lip of diff cover catching on rocks, not from bouncing off of them. A Lube Locker will allow for a gap between the housing and cover and enough so that rocks will have an easier time of catching on it and cause a leak. Please note that I am not simply recommending that you use a Basic RTV but rather, a specific one called The Right Stuff as it is extremely strong when installed correctly. It is so strong that removing the cover in the future can prove to be difficult even with all the bolts off. In all my years of wheeling and experimenting with different gasket solutions, this is the only one that I have found to work the best and why I recommend it. If you're personal preference is to use a Lube Locker, by all means, please don't let me stand in your way. :yup:

Ah, I see. Thanks for the explanation! I'll have to see about picking some up of The Right Stuff before the next time I pop my covers off.
 
Thanks for the write up... first time removing Diff covers.. wasn't excepting anything difficult but it was nice to read a write up first.... and the hint about leaving the top bolt on until it's loosened was a good idea... might not have thought of that..

Poison Spider DIFFS installed.
:beer:
 

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I also bought a pair of SOLID covers. I'm assuming I need to fill up the front and back with the stock fluids recommended? Solid's website says 3 quarts.
 
I also bought a pair of SOLID covers. I'm assuming I need to fill up the front and back with the stock fluids recommended? Solid's website says 3 quarts.

If you put in 3 quarts, you will have a stinking mess as the fluid spits out of the breather tube. You need to just add the factory amount or, enough to fill the diff to the base of the axle tubes.
 
I felt like a pro!

I have never used the rubber mallet before, it was real cool. Thanks for the write up!:clap2:
 
Hey, my spider is Black!

you must have painted your spider, that is what I was thinking about doing....
 
Changes

Hey Folks,

Yesterday I received a SOLID cover for a Dana 44, and today put it on the rear axle of my 2013 JK Rubi. I ran into a couple of things that mentioning will surely save others grief:

1 - I believe the instructions above say an H14 bit is required to install the fill plug. That was not the case with the Dana 44 SOLID cover I received yesterday, it instead required a 3/8" hex bit.

2 - As opposed to the conveniently placed straight rear sway bar in the picture above, on the stated 2012, the 2013 year model has a sway bar that on my 2013 2-dr rubi at least is quite close to the diff cover, and the sway bar follows the contour of the axle instead of going straight across. With the added bulk of the SOLID cover, the new cover was a bit tight to maneuver into place. Also, one of the 10 bolts (that take a 1/4" hex bit) supplied with the SOLID cover was physically impossible to use a hex bit on, there simply is not enough room. Perhaps if you had a ratchet that had a 1/4" hex drive, vs. a square drive, it would work. I used a large vise-grip on it, Before you scream, remember the bolt takes a hex bit so this did not affect my ability to still use a hex bit on it in the future. Additionally, the sway bar is almost directly in line with the fill hole of the SOLID cover, and made adding the new oil challenging. I ended up buying a small hand pump from Wally World and getting the 2qt+12oz of oil in with it (well, most of it, I did manage to get a bit in squeezing it as in the picture above). My recommendation, which I intend to follow if I ever have to remove the cover again, is to remove the sway bar first. Doing so would have saved me a lot of time.

On the positive side, it sure looks awesome, it doesn't leak, and has to be 4 times the weight of the stock cover, so it is assuredly MUCH tougher.
 
Hey Folks,

Yesterday I received a SOLID cover for a Dana 44, and today put it on the rear axle of my 2013 JK Rubi. I ran into a couple of things that mentioning will surely save others grief:

1 - I believe the instructions above say an H14 bit is required to install the fill plug. That was not the case with the Dana 44 SOLID cover I received yesterday, it instead required a 3/8" hex bit.

2 - As opposed to the conveniently placed straight rear sway bar in the picture above, on the stated 2012, the 2013 year model has a sway bar that on my 2013 2-dr rubi at least is quite close to the diff cover, and the sway bar follows the contour of the axle instead of going straight across. With the added bulk of the SOLID cover, the new cover was a bit tight to maneuver into place. Also, one of the 10 bolts (that take a 1/4" hex bit) supplied with the SOLID cover was physically impossible to use a hex bit on, there simply is not enough room. Perhaps if you had a ratchet that had a 1/4" hex drive, vs. a square drive, it would work. I used a large vise-grip on it, Before you scream, remember the bolt takes a hex bit so this did not affect my ability to still use a hex bit on it in the future. Additionally, the sway bar is almost directly in line with the fill hole of the SOLID cover, and made adding the new oil challenging. I ended up buying a small hand pump from Wally World and getting the 2qt+12oz of oil in with it (well, most of it, I did manage to get a bit in squeezing it as in the picture above). My recommendation, which I intend to follow if I ever have to remove the cover again, is to remove the sway bar first. Doing so would have saved me a lot of time.

On the positive side, it sure looks awesome, it doesn't leak, and has to be 4 times the weight of the stock cover, so it is assuredly MUCH tougher.

The sway bar got in the way? I don't think so. Maybe the trac bar but not the sway bar.
 
Thank you for the incredible write up. Just used it to install my poison spyder bombshell cover.

Quick pic. (I also fixed the reservoir that got whacked when rock crawling after I saw this pic lol)
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Just bought SOLID covers & replaced the rear today on my stock 2010 with a Dana 44. The fill plug & the mounting bolts were 3/8" hex drive .

I only did the rear so far. Definitely drop the stock track bar from the drivers side. It's way easier than trying to use joints on the socket.
 
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