What was done to your rig this week?

Just got my compressor installed. Just waiting on my switch pros to show up so I can figure out how to wire and plumb it all. I hate electrical work. Thanks again Bubba. What type of fittings is everyone using? In case I want to get 90°'s or anything else. Also what is a good setup for airing up? Still need to get all that stuff. Bubba I hope your listening...haha.View attachment 356873

Sent from my SM-G973U using WAYALIFE mobile app

No experience with this compressor specifically but I’m a truck and coach technician so I do have some experience with air systems. Save yourself headaches and do NOT use push connect fittings. Use good old fashioned brass fittings. Also try not to use 90* fittings unless you absolutely have to. A 90 adds the equivalent of 7’ of air line. The less bends and restrictions the better for flow.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE
 
No experience with this compressor specifically but I’m a truck and coach technician so I do have some experience with air systems. Save yourself headaches and do NOT use push connect fittings. Use good old fashioned brass fittings. Also try not to use 90* fittings unless you absolutely have to. A 90 adds the equivalent of 7’ of air line. The less bends and restrictions the better for flow.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE
Thanks for the insight. I ran a 6' braided stainless hose with flared connections. No 90's. The push connections always made me nervous. Also trying to find a place to run plastic air line where it won't hit the exhaust or snag was concerning to me as well.
Yes, both worth the money. Solid sate electronics that protect the battery and power output is worth it.
Yeah sure I could have mounted rocker switches and ran relays and wires, but this is so simple and clean. Plus its really simple to install. Additionally Bubba made ordering everything very easy.

Sent from my SM-G973U using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Thanks for the insight. I ran a 6' braided stainless hose with flared connections. No 90's. The push connections always made me nervous. Also trying to find a place to run plastic air line where it won't hit the exhaust or snag was concerning to me as well.Yeah sure I could have mounted rocker switches and ran relays and wires, but this is so simple and clean. Plus its really simple to install. Additionally Bubba made ordering everything very easy.

Sent from my SM-G973U using WAYALIFE mobile app
Since I have everything ripped off easy to give you a couple pictures for the plastic line.20201227_130410.jpeg20201227_130401.jpeg
 
Yesterday I cycled the front suspension, set bump stops, adjusted caster, and set preload on the coilovers. Today I Set pinion angle and coilover preload in the rear, remounted the gas tank, straightened the engine/tranny skid, and buttoned most everything up. Started the jeep for the first time in weeks, almost ready for a test drive.

IMG_4632.jpg
 
I repaired a broken weld on drivers side LCA bracket. I used a ball joint press and floor jack to bend it back to shape before welding. Also replaced the evac canister. The cyber Monday evap skid hasn't shown up yet, so back itself hammered out stock bracket it went.20201201_055135.jpeg20210101_132335.jpg20210101_140011.jpg20210101_155105.jpg

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Tried to mount my new front driveshaft but its making contact with the cooler looking thing on the side of the transmission, have to wait for the driveline shop to open up on Monday to see what they can do. I looked at all of the aftermarket driveshafts I could find (JE REEL, T. W.'s, Adam's, G2, and Spicer) and they all use a yoke at the T-case instead of a flange, mine uses a long flange. Hopefully the driveline shop will help me out...

On a better note I got to take the jeep for a test drive (RWD only) and break in the new 4.88's and EVO suspension. :rock:

IMG_4633.jpg

IMG_4634.jpg
 
Tried to mount my new front driveshaft but its making contact with the cooler looking thing on the side of the transmission, have to wait for the driveline shop to open up on Monday to see what they can do. I looked at all of the aftermarket driveshafts I could find (JE REEL, T. W.'s, Adam's, G2, and Spicer) and they all use a yoke at the T-case instead of a flange, mine uses a long flange. Hopefully the driveline shop will help me out...

On a better note I got to take the jeep for a test drive (RWD only) and break in the new 4.88's and EVO suspension. :rock:

View attachment 357294

View attachment 357300
I just put in a1350 front and mine has a flange. In talking to my drive line guy he said when going to a 1350 it'd have to use a flange instead of a yoke. The flange and yoke actually are the same length. My driveline guy measured them. I do have a manual so I don't have that cooler. Also I noticed it looks like your bolts ar going through the flange and threading into the drive shaft. Thats how mine was initially and the bolt heads were making contact with the 4wd shift linkage in 2H. I had to have the flange on the DS drilled out and thread the bolts into the flange. May want to look into that

Sent from my SM-G973U using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
I just put in a1350 front and mine has a flange. In talking to my drive line guy he said when going to a 1350 it'd have to use a flange instead of a yoke. The flange and yoke actually are the same length. My driveline guy measured them. I do have a manual so I don't have that cooler. Also I noticed it looks like your bolts ar going through the flange and threading into the drive shaft. Thats how mine was initially and the bolt heads were making contact with the 4wd shift linkage in 2H. I had to have the flange on the DS drilled out and thread the bolts into the flange. May want to look into that

Sent from my SM-G973U using WAYALIFE mobile app

He has a JL.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
I just put in a1350 front and mine has a flange. In talking to my drive line guy he said when going to a 1350 it'd have to use a flange instead of a yoke. The flange and yoke actually are the same length. My driveline guy measured them. I do have a manual so I don't have that cooler. Also I noticed it looks like your bolts ar going through the flange and threading into the drive shaft. Thats how mine was initially and the bolt heads were making contact with the 4wd shift linkage in 2H. I had to have the flange on the DS drilled out and thread the bolts into the flange. May want to look into that

Sent from my SM-G973U using WAYALIFE mobile app

The yokes that come with the front JL shafts would move the CV closer to the T-case I think, even if they are as long as the flange because they eliminate the CV side flange.

IMG_4637.JPG
 
Top Bottom