cozdude
Guy with a Red 2-Door
Dibs if not already spoken for
Shark "Tank"
- Thread starter Sharkey
- Start date
Dibs if not already spoken for
WanderlustSW
New member
Nice build thread, looks great, thanks for posting so many details! I'm planning on the same lift with 315's this spring, was their enough rubbing that fender trim or aftermarket ( fishbone) fenders immediately required?
notnalc68
That dude from Mississippi
That’ll work. That’s how my 7 pin trailer harness was, for a while.
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
DeJkUnlimited
Caught the Bug
That’s awesome!
Sharkey
Word Ninja
Shark "Tank"
Lights are in. It’s not as pretty as it would be on steel but it will work until he gets a new rear bumper.
Time to build a harness. I’m running an extra power wire (the red one) all the way to the back right now so when I install the rock lights (6 per side) I can just t-tap into the power line. You can see on the white power line and ground for the rear lights, I’ve used weatherproof bullet connectors. That way he can upgrade lighting without having to cut wire or make new runs.
Lights are in. It’s not as pretty as it would be on steel but it will work until he gets a new rear bumper.
Time to build a harness. I’m running an extra power wire (the red one) all the way to the back right now so when I install the rock lights (6 per side) I can just t-tap into the power line. You can see on the white power line and ground for the rear lights, I’ve used weatherproof bullet connectors. That way he can upgrade lighting without having to cut wire or make new runs.
Last edited:
TrailHunter
Hooked
Great Mod!
Sharkey
Word Ninja
Electrical question for y'all. Do you see any issues with tapping my reverse lights and running a lead directly to the lights I just installed? The goal is to have them come on when in reverse automatically but to also have the ability to switch them on at any time using the switch hooked up to my Central Command.
I know the best way to do it is to run a lead from the reverse light back to the relay that sends power to the new lights. That would be a PITA to do at this point and I don't want to screw with the Central Command.
I think these lights together are only about 3 amps. I was thinking a direct lead off of the OEM back up lights wouldn't hurt anything. Maybe put a diode in the power line coming from the Central Command to the new lights and a diode in the piggyback wire I run from the OEM lights to the new lights just to make sure there is no back current in either direction? With respect to a diode, does it need to be the same (or larger) amperage than the lights would draw, (so one 3 amp diode for each line would work?)
Thoughts?
I know the best way to do it is to run a lead from the reverse light back to the relay that sends power to the new lights. That would be a PITA to do at this point and I don't want to screw with the Central Command.
I think these lights together are only about 3 amps. I was thinking a direct lead off of the OEM back up lights wouldn't hurt anything. Maybe put a diode in the power line coming from the Central Command to the new lights and a diode in the piggyback wire I run from the OEM lights to the new lights just to make sure there is no back current in either direction? With respect to a diode, does it need to be the same (or larger) amperage than the lights would draw, (so one 3 amp diode for each line would work?)
Thoughts?
trailraider
Active Member
I ran 2 rigid cube floods tapped into the taillights with 0 issues on a 2012.
WJCO
Meme King
Those pod lights run such low current, I don't see an issue. I also plan on going right into the reverse circuit when I install mine. I don't know the answer on the diode, but would try it first without. If it works fine, leave it.
Now if one were to have a full light bar back there, definitely use the relay, they pull more amps.
Now if one were to have a full light bar back there, definitely use the relay, they pull more amps.