Never ending problems.

Frydaddy

Frydaddy

New member
10abadilla/jk said:
It's the left front. The axle breather tube is caped off.
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Plugging the axle vents will lead to leaking seals. And any moisture that gets in there will be trapped and begin wreaking havok.


jeeeep said:
well that sucks and wrapping the lines in 10mil may not have been the best idea.
seems like a smoke test is going to be your best bet.
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10abadilla/jk said:
Why not?
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Covering the vacuum tubes in 10 mil doesnt hurt anything, but that will hide any damage that may have been done to the lines.
if you wrapped them recently, even a perfect wrap will still allow a leak along the edges.
if you wrapped them long ago, then that means you didn't really feel down all the lines.

A smoke test is the quickest way to deal with this problem.
There is an older method that might work. unplug the throttle position sensor, to keep the engine in open-loop mode. Then spray a little carb cleaner along the vacuum lines until you hear the engine surge. Watch the exhaust pipes!
 
jkris

jkris

New member
I had this code with my 2010. I had looked everywhere and then found a crack on the fuel pump where the vapor line connects to it.

Not sure if I read everything you have done already correctly but this is what happened to me and it had the same symptoms.

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10abadilla/jk

10abadilla/jk

New member
Frydaddy said:
Plugging the axle vents will lead to leaking seals. And any moisture that gets in there will be trapped and begin wreaking havok.





Covering the vacuum tubes in 10 mil doesnt hurt anything, but that will hide any damage that may have been done to the lines.
if you wrapped them recently, even a perfect wrap will still allow a leak along the edges.
if you wrapped them long ago, then that means you didn't really feel down all the lines.

A smoke test is the quickest way to deal with this problem.
There is an older method that might work. unplug the throttle position sensor, to keep the engine in open-loop mode. Then spray a little carb cleaner along the vacuum lines until you hear the engine surge. Watch the exhaust pipes!
Click to expand...
Should I just extend the vent hose. It's not long enough and that why it's caped. Whoever installed the lift caped it.

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10abadilla/jk

10abadilla/jk

New member
Frydaddy said:
Plugging the axle vents will lead to leaking seals. And any moisture that gets in there will be trapped and begin wreaking havok.





Covering the vacuum tubes in 10 mil doesnt hurt anything, but that will hide any damage that may have been done to the lines.
if you wrapped them recently, even a perfect wrap will still allow a leak along the edges.
if you wrapped them long ago, then that means you didn't really feel down all the lines.

A smoke test is the quickest way to deal with this problem.
There is an older method that might work. unplug the throttle position sensor, to keep the engine in open-loop mode. Then spray a little carb cleaner along the vacuum lines until you hear the engine surge. Watch the exhaust pipes!
Click to expand...
I wrapped the lines probably about a month or so ago

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Frydaddy

Frydaddy

New member
10abadilla/jk said:
Should I just extend the vent hose. It's not long enough and that why it's caped. Whoever installed the lift caped it.
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Yep, Some 5/16" rubber hose will fit. It doesn't have to be tough fuel line hose, but it will be exposed to the elements. Run the line up into the engine bay, perhaps along the brake line umbilical for flexibility.I fed mine to the back corner of the engine bay, mostly out of the way. There is a little plastic plug that goes on the top end with a cap that feels loose. this is so air can blow through but offers some intrusion protection.

If you do a lot of water crossings, you might want to have a look at the transfer case vent tube. it only goes to the top of the bell housing, behind the engine. I ended up splicing it into the transmission vent tube with a T-connector.
 
10abadilla/jk

10abadilla/jk

New member
Frydaddy said:
Yep, Some 5/16" rubber hose will fit. It doesn't have to be tough fuel line hose, but it will be exposed to the elements. Run the line up into the engine bay, perhaps along the brake line umbilical for flexibility.I fed mine to the back corner of the engine bay, mostly out of the way. There is a little plastic plug that goes on the top end with a cap that feels loose. this is so air can blow through but offers some intrusion protection.

If you do a lot of water crossings, you might want to have a look at the transfer case vent tube. it only goes to the top of the bell housing, behind the engine. I ended up splicing it into the transmission vent tube with a T-connector.
Click to expand...
Perfect thank you for the information. That's for sure on my list this weekend.

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TonyViv

TonyViv

Member
Take a look at the vapor lines going to plastic part on top of the gas tank.. the nipple on mine was cracked this is my mac gyver fix with the inside of a pen




gastank.jpg
 
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nmwranglerx

nmwranglerx

Caught the Bug
Sorry you having so many jeep issues. Did you say you replaced the evap canister? Did it come with a new one of these:
http://www.quadratec.com/sites/default/files/styles/product_zoomed/public/product_images/189526.jpg
It's common culprit to evap leak. This turned out to be my issue when I had a leak a few years back. I even had a smoke test done, not cheap, and the shop still didn't get it right. So after wasting a bunch of time and money, someone on this forum suggested the part above and they were right.


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Heavyhaul07

Heavyhaul07

New member
As for your front axle vent tube. The cap that u see is it white. If it is it's not a cap it's a check valve. The vent hose runs of the back side of the shock tower. Mine will spit out a little bit of gear oil once in a while and make it look like my shock is leaking but it's just from the vent tube.


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10abadilla/jk

10abadilla/jk

New member
nmwranglerx said:
Sorry you having so many jeep issues. Did you say you replaced the evap canister? Did it come with a new one of these:
http://www.quadratec.com/sites/default/files/styles/product_zoomed/public/product_images/189526.jpg
It's common culprit to evap leak. This turned out to be my issue when I had a leak a few years back. I even had a smoke test done, not cheap, and the shop still didn't get it right. So after wasting a bunch of time and money, someone on this forum suggested the part above and they were right.


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Click to expand...
I did replace the canister and it did not come with the "pump" but I did replace the oring gasket thing on it. Maybe that's my next option before the smoke test. From looking at it and inside of it the diaphragm looked fine. But I could only see in from the nipple. It looked pretty clean inside.

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10abadilla/jk

10abadilla/jk

New member
Heavyhaul07 said:
As for your front axle vent tube. The cap that u see is it white. If it is it's not a cap it's a check valve. The vent hose runs of the back side of the shock tower. Mine will spit out a little bit of gear oil once in a while and make it look like my shock is leaking but it's just from the vent tube.


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It's not Its actually just like a yellow plug cap. If you look at the picture of the shock you can kind of see it in the back round. No fluid was coming from there at all.

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10abadilla/jk

10abadilla/jk

New member
Haha this never ends. I guess I'm having some sort of circuit problems now. B1647 and B1648 REAR RIGHT TURN CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW and REAR LEFT TURN CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
I forgot the other code but it was also some high circuit code for the front fog light I believe. Anyone have any ideas?

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jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
10abadilla/jk said:
Haha this never ends. I guess I'm having some sort of circuit problems now. B1647 and B1648 REAR RIGHT TURN CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW and REAR LEFT TURN CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
I forgot the other code but it was also some high circuit code for the front fog light I believe. Anyone have any ideas?

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did you swap out any lights for LED? you may also have a bulb on one of the rear lights out.

Turn signal blink faster than usual?
 
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