evo bolt on coil over question

Reaper

New member
AWESOME!!!! that makes my day i was worried i was waiting on 4k to jsut be able to lift but i can lift with around 2k
 
well guys i think you have made my mind up. Im going to start saving for the EVO bolt on kit. I had a question do you have to have the front and rear bolt ons at the same time or can i get 4" coils for the back and run the front alone with it until i get enpough money for the rear?

This is what I might end up having to do
 

Havoc40

New member
So if I'm reading this correct...the Chamber Pro's will work with 4.07" backspacing, but Raceline's will not with 4.0" backspacing?

I've made my mind up on ordering the bolt-on kit from Northridge. I already have driveshafts and 37" trail grapplers. Now trying to decide on beadlocks. I was leaning towards Raceline Monsters with 4.0" backspacing. I just don't like the "star" look of slabs.
 

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
I run the method 105s with mine cuz I liked the look better and only other 3.5" bs wheels I liked.

I think what will/won't work is a very fine line. Mine rub my coils ever so slightly once in awhile with current setup but that's cuz I'm running 37x13.5" toyos. The 37x12.5" I tried on the racelines rubbed worse and more often.

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Last edited:

JRW1223

New member
Thats all you would need to run the coilovers. Remember if you get bigger tires you'll either need spacers for your stock wheels or need to get all new wheels. Then you'll want to correct your speedometer with a programmer and then possibly regear to help you get back to or better than stock performance. :D

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Has anyone ran stock wheels and tires with the bolt on coilover suspension kit and if so what size wheel spacer did you get?


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whytiptoe

Member
There is one thing that people forget about coilovers, they require Maintanence. IMO again IMO at minimum every other year they should come off and have the fluid changed. At the same time I would replace some of not all the seals. This is something that you could do if you are mechanically inclined. If you are not you will need to send them out and be without your jeep for about two to three weeks. Having someone else do it is a little costly IMO when they only take a day to do at the house with basic hand tools. If I had a dedicated shop I could rebuild one in about 30 min. Don’t get me wrong you could go longer, but the oil does degrade of time and will have negative impact on your ride.


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PATRIOTKJM

New member
There is one thing that people forget about coilovers, they require Maintanence. IMO again IMO at minimum every other year they should come off and have the fluid changed. At the same time I would replace some of not all the seals. This is something that you could do if you are mechanically inclined. If you are not you will need to send them out and be without your jeep for about two to three weeks. Having someone else do it is a little costly IMO when they only take a day to do at the house with basic hand tools. If I had a dedicated shop I could rebuild one in about 30 min. Don’t get me wrong you could go longer, but the oil does degrade of time and will have negative impact on your ride.


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A shock is a shock so it’s not any different because it has a coil on the outside of it. They don’t require anymore maintenance than a shock would with a stock coil setup.


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whytiptoe

Member
A shock is a shock so it’s not any different because it has a coil on the outside of it. They don’t require anymore maintenance than a shock would with a stock coil setup.


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A shock is non-serviceable, and as time goes on shocks age and must be replaced. Coilovers are a serviceable unit and should be serviced to ensure proper working condition.

Old fluid about two-three years old. IMG_0213.jpg
New fluid. IMG_0212.jpg

You can tell me the old fluid has the same viscosity as the new, I don’t think so.


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JRW1223

New member
There is one thing that people forget about coilovers, they require Maintanence. IMO again IMO at minimum every other year they should come off and have the fluid changed. At the same time I would replace some of not all the seals. This is something that you could do if you are mechanically inclined. If you are not you will need to send them out and be without your jeep for about two to three weeks. Having someone else do it is a little costly IMO when they only take a day to do at the house with basic hand tools. If I had a dedicated shop I could rebuild one in about 30 min. Don’t get me wrong you could go longer, but the oil does degrade of time and will have negative impact on your ride.


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I guess this goes for the King 2.5 bypass shocks as well? If so, would the maintenance period be greater between services?


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whytiptoe

Member
I guess this goes for the King 2.5 bypass shocks as well? If so, would the maintenance period be greater between services?


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Yes the time interval I would think would be the same. Now saying that it truly depends on use, if your a weekend warrior who just crawls, I’d say every other year would be fine. If you play fast and hard in the dirt often, I’d say every year. Mine is my DD and I am a little OCD when it comes to performance parts and suspension, so I will do mine closer to once every year to year and a half.

Like I said it’s a days worth of work and about $150-$200 in parts, at least for the bolt on coils.


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PATRIOTKJM

New member
A shock is non-serviceable, and as time goes on shocks age and must be replaced. Coilovers are a serviceable unit and should be serviced to ensure proper working condition.

Old fluid about two-three years old. View attachment 284221
New fluid. View attachment 284222

You can tell me the old fluid has the same viscosity as the new, I don’t think so.


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And you would find the same if you cut into a non serviceable shock. Just was pointing out that a coil over doesn’t require any more maintenance than any other shock except for you can rebuild it rather than replace it. But yes you are correct it’s best to stay on top of them, biggest issue is loss of nitrogen pressure and cavitation.


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JRW1223

New member
I have a new question: Does the Evo bolt on coilover kit come with front sway bar quick disconnects for non rubicon model JKs?

Thank you all for your help!


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JRW1223

New member
I just finished installing this lift but the jeep hasn’t moved because I still need to bleed the brakes. It’s currently sitting with 5 inches of height front and rear.
For those of you that installed this kit yourself, how much did the height of the Jeep drop after a few mile drive and settling of the springs? I’m asking because I want to drop to 3” inches of lift height but can’t go any lower in the rear because I can’t spin the top collar. I’m running an evo roll cage, stock rear bumper, the stock spare at the moment. IMG_5648.jpg


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Jkzinger

Caught the Bug
I just finished installing this lift but the jeep hasn’t moved because I still need to bleed the brakes. It’s currently sitting with 5 inches of height front and rear.
For those of you that installed this kit yourself, how much did the height of the Jeep drop after a few mile drive and settling of the springs? I’m asking because I want to drop to 3” inches of lift height but can’t go any lower in the rear because I can’t spin the top collar. I’m running an evo roll cage, stock rear bumper, the stock spare at the moment. View attachment 289039


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Mine did not settle at all. I also have a heavy jeep with a big tire on a heavy bumper. I netted 4 inches.


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