What was done to your rig this week?

GP NOIR

GP NOIR

Hooked
Adjusted the soft top to fit better
IMG_7803.jpeg

After all the top end work on the engine, was plagued random CEL codes which were kicking the Jeep into limp mode. Finally traced the problem to a wire with a cracked insulator that I missed before. Applied some “liquid tape” and drive it for a few days. No more codes. Borrowed a demo scanner from the Snap On guy and performed a complete system relearn. Now she purrs like a kitten and mileage went from 15 mpg on the freeway to 18-20.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
GP NOIR said:
Adjusted the soft top to fit better
View attachment 399542

After all the top end work on the engine, was plagued random CEL codes which were kicking the Jeep into limp mode. Finally traced the problem to a wire with a cracked insulator that I missed before. Applied some “liquid tape” and drive it for a few days. No more codes. Borrowed a demo scanner from the Snap On guy and performed a complete system relearn. Now she purrs like a kitten and mileage went from 15 mpg on the freeway to 18-20.
Click to expand...
do you think the wire was the cause all along?
 
GP NOIR

GP NOIR

Hooked
jeeeep said:
do you think the wire was the cause all along?
Click to expand...
No. The wire certainly was one of the issues complicating the troubleshooting tree and, short version, triggered an investigation that led to identifying problems with the cam phasers and rockers. Three or four rockers had a bit of play in them.

Long Version
For the past few months, I'd been getting a random traction control light when going over a local rough railroad crossing. Sometimes it would reset after driving a few miles. Sometimes after shutting off the engine. I chalked it up to the G meter getting jostled. Now I think it was an exposed wire.

Another ghost code was for the evap system. This one was baffling because it'd come on after working underneath my Jeep. Replace the driveshaft, evap code. Tighten control arm bolts, evap code. Install belly pans, evap code. Again, I think it was the wiring, but why working under the Jeep triggered it, I have no idea.

Coming back from Tuttle Creek OHV, Kansas back in October, I started getting a P0019 code, which is Bank 2 Sensor B (cam shaft position sensor). It first showed up just outside of Denver and triggered the limp mode. But after wiggling a few wires and connectors, it cleared and thankfully, didn't come back until I got home. I have a Blue Driver which gave me a list of things to correct to fix the P0019 code, such as the camshaft position sensor, crankshaft position sensor and cam phaser controller.

As the Jeep is about 12 years old and has close to 160K, I figured I'd replace all the sensors. I did so as the parts became available and the problem went away. For a short time. I took it to a guy from a local Jeep group who volunteered to help. The Jeep community is filled with great people! He did a relearn with his scanner and the engine ran smoother than it ever did and (according to the mileage readout on the dash) milage went up significantly. Then, the P0019 came back on and wouldn't go away.

The guy helping me has experience troubleshooting and repairing 3.6 engines for the dealership. He said it was the cam phaser. As a last ditch effort, we flushed the cam phasers using the scanner. Bad move. I then got a code telling me all four phasers were slow to respond. Based on what I found in the top end, I figure the O rings inside the phasers had turned hard and broke apart during the flush.

I bought phasers and oil control valves and figured while I was in there, I'd replace the rockers and lifters. I was not getting any ticking, but the engine does have a lot of miles on it. Also replaced a few harness connectors that I'd broken. Got everything together, chased down vaccuum leaks and got random codes for this and that plus a traction light for no torque signal. I started to think I'd somehow corrupted the camshaft magnetic tone rings. You can do that by simply touching the tone ring with another tone ring or a magnet.

Before buying new cams and tearing down the top end again, I decided to see if maybe a connector was loose or a wire was broken. I went through the harness one connector at a time until I narrowed it down to the wire with the cracked insulation and applied “liquid tape”.

After replacing parts, sorting out the wiring issues and performing the relearn, my Jeep is running better than it did when I bought it over a year and a half ago.

In conclusion-
1) Although the sensors do not touch anything, they degrade with time from heat and use. The voltage changes over time leading to a reduction of efficiency and fuel milage. Replacing old sensors and performing a relearn can restore fuel efficiency
2) Although at least three rockers had developed play, there was no ticking. By itself, replacing the rockers & lifters was worth the work
3) The debris I found under the valve covers was clear evidence the O rings in the phasers had shrunk and turned brittle with age.
4) The P0019 code was at least partially due to the bad wire. But all evidence points to it being a legit code

PRO TIP- If the replacement sensor comes with any kind of metal based anti seize to lubricate the O ring DO NOT USE IT! Use motor oil.
 
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C

CD2

Caught the Bug
Nothing yet LOL
Ended up w a 2020 Trailhawk Cherokee.
So now shopping for 2" lift and want to go with slightly taller tire.
Factory ones done after winter.
Also, didn't come w rear hitch so gotta add that.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
Put the EVO ProTek back on the JLU, with the longarm, can't use the exhaust loop portion but have come up with a mod and will hopefully be able to get it setup before heading out.


The JT, put some 1/4" rubber seal around the rear windshield.
It was raining when I bought the JT and next day noticed water behind the rear seats. I could see by the way the rear window is attached how it would be prone to leaking.
Knowing we were about to have some heavier storms, I put some tape up around the glass edge/hardtop and glad I did, turned out to be some heavy rain. Check the back seats and all was dry so that confirmed my notion about the rear glass seal.
 
jamesrw30

jamesrw30

Active Member
Installed some of the Christmas gifts I got. Some I just got yesterday as we hadn't had Christmas with my parents due to flu. In laws gave me a storage bag to the freedom panels so attached it to the back of the rear seat. Taktic rear storage bins and small bins to replace the old stretched out nets for the front doors.
 
dchew

dchew

Caught the Bug
One more killed by the salty elements plus bad owner maintenance. This is an early Zeon. I rebuilt it once in 2015 with a new drum, brake kit and buss connection. This time, I didn't get that far. I couldn't rotate the clutch disengagement without the help of channel locks, so the only way to replace the rope was to unspool it using the motor. That was a bad idea. I should have pulled it all apart first and just left the old rope on the old drum. I got the whole rope unspooled and cut off, but the effort was too much for the old winch. I smoked it, but at least it happened in the garage and not on the trail. Time for a new one.

Is there a good waterproof cover for these? Something that is reasonable to put on and take off a Zeon 10-s recessed into the bumper? There are 100's on Amazon I could randomly pick; didn't see one on Eddie's Amazon store. My bumper is the Expedition One Core, which has a winch hole similar to the Evo 1/4-pounder. The old neoprene cover I used to have really didn't do much other than keep it wet longer and fade to gray after the first year. Maybe a Hefty cinch sack. :rolleyes:

BTW, here is a link to the Zeon service manual if anyone wants it. It's 2014 vintage but I couldn't find a new version on their website:
Warn Zeon Service Manual

Dave
warn01.jpg
 
Ddays

Ddays

Hooked
dchew said:
One more killed by the salty elements plus bad owner maintenance. This is an early Zeon. I rebuilt it once in 2015 with a new drum, brake kit and buss connection. This time, I didn't get that far. I couldn't rotate the clutch disengagement without the help of channel locks, so the only way to replace the rope was to unspool it using the motor. That was a bad idea. I should have pulled it all apart first and just left the old rope on the old drum. I got the whole rope unspooled and cut off, but the effort was too much for the old winch. I smoked it, but at least it happened in the garage and not on the trail. Time for a new one.

Is there a good waterproof cover for these? Something that is reasonable to put on and take off a Zeon 10-s recessed into the bumper? There are 100's on Amazon I could randomly pick; didn't see one on Eddie's Amazon store. My bumper is the Expedition One Core, which has a winch hole similar to the Evo 1/4-pounder. The old neoprene cover I used to have really didn't do much other than keep it wet longer and fade to gray after the first year. Maybe a Hefty cinch sack. :rolleyes:

BTW, here is a link to the Zeon service manual if anyone wants it. It's 2014 vintage but I couldn't find a new version on their website:
Warn Zeon Service Manual

Dave
View attachment 401101
Click to expand...
Gotta love the rust belt. The Zeon on my JL looked like that as well. Getting a cover to fit on one of these mounted in the factory steel bumper is
impossible. There's like one RCH clearance between the two...
 
Breer

Breer

Caught the Bug
dchew said:
One more killed by the salty elements plus bad owner maintenance. This is an early Zeon. I rebuilt it once in 2015 with a new drum, brake kit and buss connection. This time, I didn't get that far. I couldn't rotate the clutch disengagement without the help of channel locks, so the only way to replace the rope was to unspool it using the motor. That was a bad idea. I should have pulled it all apart first and just left the old rope on the old drum. I got the whole rope unspooled and cut off, but the effort was too much for the old winch. I smoked it, but at least it happened in the garage and not on the trail. Time for a new one.

Is there a good waterproof cover for these? Something that is reasonable to put on and take off a Zeon 10-s recessed into the bumper? There are 100's on Amazon I could randomly pick; didn't see one on Eddie's Amazon store. My bumper is the Expedition One Core, which has a winch hole similar to the Evo 1/4-pounder. The old neoprene cover I used to have really didn't do much other than keep it wet longer and fade to gray after the first year. Maybe a Hefty cinch sack. :rolleyes:

BTW, here is a link to the Zeon service manual if anyone wants it. It's 2014 vintage but I couldn't find a new version on their website:
Warn Zeon Service Manual

Dave
Click to expand...
Thank you for posting that up. I just went through mine a little also as it is a 2016.. not really sure about any other covers for the winch itself. I just use the Warn plastic cover for the front to help protect the rope from UV and some of the road dirt and grime. It has worked well for me and kept the rope in really good condition over the years. PXL_20240116_023801902.jpg
 
Jsouder53

Jsouder53

Hooked
dchew said:
One more killed by the salty elements plus bad owner maintenance. This is an early Zeon. I rebuilt it once in 2015 with a new drum, brake kit and buss connection. This time, I didn't get that far. I couldn't rotate the clutch disengagement without the help of channel locks, so the only way to replace the rope was to unspool it using the motor. That was a bad idea. I should have pulled it all apart first and just left the old rope on the old drum. I got the whole rope unspooled and cut off, but the effort was too much for the old winch. I smoked it, but at least it happened in the garage and not on the trail. Time for a new one.

Is there a good waterproof cover for these? Something that is reasonable to put on and take off a Zeon 10-s recessed into the bumper? There are 100's on Amazon I could randomly pick; didn't see one on Eddie's Amazon store. My bumper is the Expedition One Core, which has a winch hole similar to the Evo 1/4-pounder. The old neoprene cover I used to have really didn't do much other than keep it wet longer and fade to gray after the first year. Maybe a Hefty cinch sack. :rolleyes:

BTW, here is a link to the Zeon service manual if anyone wants it. It's 2014 vintage but I couldn't find a new version on their website:
Warn Zeon Service Manual

Dave
View attachment 401101
Click to expand...
I’ve been really happy with the Bartact winch cover. I’ve had it for maybe 4 years now and doesn’t even look too sun faded. https://www.bartact.com/products/winch-cover-for-warn-zeon-10-and-12-patent-pending-bartact
 
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