The interesting thing is my buddy's JK came from the dealer with ARB installed front and rear! But I get it, all good. Definitely do the research, as I am finding quite a few things that claim to be bolt on, don't mention drilling or cutting, and yet they still require one or both. Seems a bit misleading if you ask me.
KP's JKUR Build
- Thread starter KPM171
- Start date
The interesting thing is my buddy's JK came from the dealer with ARB installed front and rear! But I get it, all good. Definitely do the research, as I am finding quite a few things that claim to be bolt on, don't mention drilling or cutting, and yet they still require one or both. Seems a bit misleading if you ask me.
KPM171
New member
My understanding is that if the dealership does it, they have to warranty it. That's why I'm guessing most dealerships generally stick to Mopar products.
KPM171
New member
Pics KP;
I'm thinkin that I wont have that gap! How far back does the OR-Fab skid go though? If you had to guesstimate how many inches back it goes from that cross member, or whatever it is. Thanks dude!
Actually, I don't think you'll have a gap at all since your bumper rests on that cross member that the skid is attached to.
StrizzyChris
New member
I am in no way bashing this comment, I get your point, but drilling and cutting doesn't change the fact that to install the product....you just bolt it on. What the "bolt on" claim is referring to is no welding required. As paychex mentioned, if you are unwilling to drill or cut....then you are not going to get very far from stock.
KPM171
New member
Perhaps I should reword my initial comment for further clarity. The concept I was referring to as "bolt on" means [to me] to bolt on a piece to pre-existing mounting points. As my rig will be a daily driver that will see trail use perhaps once a month on average, I'm fine with sticking to products that bolt on to pre-existing mounting locations for the time being and not getting too too far from stock. Will I run a 40" tire one day on some nasty suspension set up w/ heavy mods? Possibly, who knows. But in the mean time, I've actually found that there are many, many talented and clever engineers and fabricators out there that can create amazing products to get the very most out of your Jeep without the need for welding, cutting, or drilling. Even my TJ that I built up was primarily bolt on without the need for frame mods. If that's what's considered not far from stock, then I'm totally ok with that.
KPM171
New member
From LoD Offroad:
Our hitch is rated the same as your factory hitch. Your factory hitch just bolts to your rear crossmember only. Our Hitch bolts to the rear crossmember and both frame rails using 12 bolts in all. So now you would be pulling from both frame rails and the crossmember using our hitch. Let me know if you have any other questions and I will be happy to help you out.
cozdude
Guy with a Red 2-Door
well thats good to know that your not losing towing capacity but not really gaining capacity as well. i guess in a way it is stronger :idontknow:
StrizzyChris
New member
Oh I am with ya...my whole build thread is only bolt on. I am planning for the whole build to be done that way. I also will not cut into my frame. I have and will drill a hole into my frame to run a bolt through though. Didnt mean to come off as bashing, just that I hope you done choose an inferior product just to not drill a couple holes or cut off a factory bracket like the 2012+ vacuum assist, etc. Either way cheers and look forward to your build :yup:
KPM171
New member
Funny you should mention that as my ARB parts are still sitting in my garage and for some reason I'm starting to drag my feet on sending them back...
KPM171
New member
17's on my feets, oh yeah!
When shopping for new wheels, I started out by oohing and aahing at all the shiny things that were on the covers of my Jeep porn mags [cough]Quadratec Catalog[cough]. 'Man, those 20's are hot!' I thought to myself. And yeah, they look good now but with absolutely no offset they are gonna end up beaten to hell after the first time I take them out on trail. And so my criteria began to shape itself. I knew I wanted something with an offset and I also knew that down the road I was planning on lifting my JKUR and running a larger tire. Larger tires can get crazy heavy, so looking for a light weight but sturdy wheel was important too. Ok, since we are talking about keeping the weight down so that my Jeep doesn't get bogged down at highway speeds (I gave up 6th gear in my last Jeep thank you!) it might be wise to take a minute to check the tire weights (& prices) depending on the sizes.
Let's say I wanted to run a 35" tire on a 20" wheel later on when I got a lift. Using a Goodyear MT/R tire as my example that means my tire weight goes up to 71lbs and my wheel weight goes up to 42 freakin pounds! (an increase of approx 40lbs/wheel??) However, if I stick to a 17" wheel, my tire weight only jumps to 64lbs for the same over all diameter. Not to mention a 35" tire on a 17" wheel is over $100 cheaper/tire! With a spreadsheet on hand tracking weights, sizes, & costs I further narrowed my search down to a 17" wheel. Which conveniently meant that I could get it NOW since I have tires mounted on a 17" wheel set up. Woot! The kind folks at 877-iamJeep informed me (incorrectly actually!) that the OEM Rubi wheels weigh in at 27lbs each. So, I'm hunting a 17" wheel with an offset, in an 8.5" width that weighs less than 27 lbs., and has either a flat black or argent finish. The finalists are...
AEV Pintler Wheel in Argent. It's a little on the heavy side (27lbs), especially if you add bead locks. I do really like the recessed valve stem protection and they look fantastic!
ProComp 8188 Wheel in black. It's the featherweight of the bunch at 24lbs/wheel, I like the black design and the offset but I can see those shiny metal accents on the lip getting chewed off by the first rock the think about meeting. Will it work with my OEM TPMS sensors?
Dick Cepek DC Torque Alloy Wheel in Black. Not the lightest of the group, but pretty close. I like the depth and the design and they are designed to work effortlessly with the OEM TPMS sensors & the price won't break the bank.
If you've glanced at my avatar once, you already know that the winner is the Dick Cepek DC Torque Alloy Wheel in Black! I think these wheels look amazing on the billet silver, almost like they were designed to be there in the first place. I'm disappointed that the folks at 877-iamJeep folks incorrectly told me the OEM wheel weight as I was looking forward to shaving off a few pounds of rotational weight, but so it goes. OEM Rubicon Wheel is 24.7 lbs./wheel, the DC Torque weighs in at 25.1 lbs./wheel. So, it's really a wash for weight differences of that size. Over all, I'm very happy with the look. Not too blingy, I think it'll survive the trails nicely, and they'll look great wrapped in a set of 35's (37's?) one day.
When shopping for new wheels, I started out by oohing and aahing at all the shiny things that were on the covers of my Jeep porn mags [cough]Quadratec Catalog[cough]. 'Man, those 20's are hot!' I thought to myself. And yeah, they look good now but with absolutely no offset they are gonna end up beaten to hell after the first time I take them out on trail. And so my criteria began to shape itself. I knew I wanted something with an offset and I also knew that down the road I was planning on lifting my JKUR and running a larger tire. Larger tires can get crazy heavy, so looking for a light weight but sturdy wheel was important too. Ok, since we are talking about keeping the weight down so that my Jeep doesn't get bogged down at highway speeds (I gave up 6th gear in my last Jeep thank you!) it might be wise to take a minute to check the tire weights (& prices) depending on the sizes.
Let's say I wanted to run a 35" tire on a 20" wheel later on when I got a lift. Using a Goodyear MT/R tire as my example that means my tire weight goes up to 71lbs and my wheel weight goes up to 42 freakin pounds! (an increase of approx 40lbs/wheel??) However, if I stick to a 17" wheel, my tire weight only jumps to 64lbs for the same over all diameter. Not to mention a 35" tire on a 17" wheel is over $100 cheaper/tire! With a spreadsheet on hand tracking weights, sizes, & costs I further narrowed my search down to a 17" wheel. Which conveniently meant that I could get it NOW since I have tires mounted on a 17" wheel set up. Woot! The kind folks at 877-iamJeep informed me (incorrectly actually!) that the OEM Rubi wheels weigh in at 27lbs each. So, I'm hunting a 17" wheel with an offset, in an 8.5" width that weighs less than 27 lbs., and has either a flat black or argent finish. The finalists are...
AEV Pintler Wheel in Argent. It's a little on the heavy side (27lbs), especially if you add bead locks. I do really like the recessed valve stem protection and they look fantastic!
ProComp 8188 Wheel in black. It's the featherweight of the bunch at 24lbs/wheel, I like the black design and the offset but I can see those shiny metal accents on the lip getting chewed off by the first rock the think about meeting. Will it work with my OEM TPMS sensors?
Dick Cepek DC Torque Alloy Wheel in Black. Not the lightest of the group, but pretty close. I like the depth and the design and they are designed to work effortlessly with the OEM TPMS sensors & the price won't break the bank.
If you've glanced at my avatar once, you already know that the winner is the Dick Cepek DC Torque Alloy Wheel in Black! I think these wheels look amazing on the billet silver, almost like they were designed to be there in the first place. I'm disappointed that the folks at 877-iamJeep folks incorrectly told me the OEM wheel weight as I was looking forward to shaving off a few pounds of rotational weight, but so it goes. OEM Rubicon Wheel is 24.7 lbs./wheel, the DC Torque weighs in at 25.1 lbs./wheel. So, it's really a wash for weight differences of that size. Over all, I'm very happy with the look. Not too blingy, I think it'll survive the trails nicely, and they'll look great wrapped in a set of 35's (37's?) one day.
I really think the ARB bumpers are very well made. My front has been on my 2010 JK for 2 years and not a single bit of rust anywhere. I know some think they are a bit generic looking but once you get your hands on one you can sure see the detail and craftsmanship that goes into them.
I am not worried that I will have any warranty issues with drilling the 2 holes in the frame, Chrysler would have to prove that we caused a warranty issue by drilling the holes to deny a claim.
I totally understand your hesitancy, and I go down the same path, making sure I can mod and still revert to stock if needed. I literally doing that right now as I had not planned to buy a 2013, but do to some issues with my 2010, I decided it was the better course of action. I made sure during my build I could go back to stock with little to no extra expenses incurred. A simple example, my aux fuse box is mounted to the cover of the factory fuse box. For $8 I got a new cover, so no trace will be left behind. I think the fender liners would also fall into this category, which why I am not concerned about cutting them, I'm sure I could find a used set if need be. Some things I am not going to remove like the dual battery tray, replacing the stock tray (which gets modified with dual batteries) would cost the same as a new dual battery tray and is quite a bit of work so I am going to leave it.
Anyway, I hope you reconsider, I think ARB makes a great trouble free product, which is more than I can say for some. Yes their instructions aren't great, honestly the instructions for my AEV lift were not great either and were almost changing daily at one point!:thinking:
Good luck with your decision! I still blame you for my desire for an Spod now haha!:clap2:
Kenny-g
Caught the Bug
When I started reading the rim post and got to the pic of the DC ones I was like errr he already has those? Then finished reading lol threw me for a loop for a minute haha
I like the other AEV wheels (don't know what they're called off the top of my head) but anything AEV is WAYYY over priced. It sucks cause it looks so good but yeah. Too much for me. If I had $2k+ layin around my Jeep would be sittin on some ProComp wheels and tires for sure. I love some of their wheels.
I like the other AEV wheels (don't know what they're called off the top of my head) but anything AEV is WAYYY over priced. It sucks cause it looks so good but yeah. Too much for me. If I had $2k+ layin around my Jeep would be sittin on some ProComp wheels and tires for sure. I love some of their wheels.
KPM171
New member
My bumper is still sitting in the box in my garage staring at me and my tire carrier arrives today. I'm scrouing the market, but this product really was my first choice. It's looking like I'm just gonna give it all a go tomorrow and see how it turns out. Got my Rustoleum ready to go to prevent any cancer down the road, just need to pick up some CRC Dry Glide, Neutral-Cure Silicone, & bearing grease. Does the average shade tree mechanic keep this kind of stuff on hand? I generally just use lithium grease or WD-40 for everything.
$2k? What wheels are you buyin' high roller?!?:broke:
Maybe it's an Australian thing like shrimp on the barbie?
Good luck with the install! Looking forward to seeing the finished product!
KPM171
New member
Copy that. Wheels and tires don't grow on trees. I've been pricing out tires for 6 months now, but it'll be a while before I do anything about it. Just please, please get 5 matching ones. Those guys that run 4 33's and one OEM donut spare drive me nuts!