Going to beadlocks worth it?

Thinking about adding an electric ratchet to my tools to make the 24 bolts per wheel go faster. What it the consensus about using anti seize on the ring bolts?
 
NAZ Jeeper said:
Thinking about adding an electric ratchet to my tools to make the 24 bolts per wheel go faster. What it the consensus about using anti seize on the ring bolts?
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Definitely get the elec ratchet, I have the same Milwaukee as Eddie and it’s used all the time.

I believe anti-sieze is only needed in snowy climates where salt is used on the roads and probably wet coastal areas.
 
They just started using a liquid salt solution on the roads up here a couple years ago so there is some limited exposure.
 
If your wheels have steel inserts then grease or anti seize isn't mandatory but if your bolts thread directly into the aluminum then it is mandatory. As long as you reduce your torque values accordingly (generally 25% less) I would recommend grease or anti seize on all beadlocks especially in inclement weather or salty environments.

In a lot of cases marine grade grease can be used in place of anti seize. It work just as well without the added cost and the mess. Generally Anti seize is used when temperatures are to high for grease to be used.
 
NAZ Jeeper said:
Thinking about adding an electric ratchet to my tools to make the 24 bolts per wheel go faster. What it the consensus about using anti seize on the ring bolts?
Click to expand...
This is my go-to video whenever I need a refresh on mounting tires on my beadlocks. I do use a dab of anti-seize since a seized/broken bolt is a nightmare, but I have had several "agree to disagree" conversations on it.

 
NAZ Jeeper said:
They just started using a liquid salt solution on the roads up here a couple years ago so there is some limited exposure.
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Brine isn't the same thing as salted roads and from experience, I can tell you that it won't be enough to matter.
Spazbyt said:
If your wheels have steel inserts then grease or anti seize isn't mandatory but if your bolts thread directly into the aluminum then it is mandatory.
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Agreed.
 
Guess it may not be necessary but can‘t hurt either as long as the torque specs are correct for either wet or dry.
 
Mounted my first beadlock today. Went pretty smooth but took a lot of passes getting the screws torqued down. Now I know why they take so long.
 

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I forgot to also mention spraying a diluted soapy solution on the bead will help the process some. helps lubricate the ring/bead interface & lets it slide a little.
 
Spazbyt said:
If your wheels have steel inserts then grease or anti seize isn't mandatory but if your bolts thread directly into the aluminum then it is mandatory. As long as you reduce your torque values accordingly (generally 25% less) I would recommend grease or anti seize on all beadlocks especially in inclement weather or salty environments.

In a lot of cases marine grade grease can be used in place of anti seize. It work just as well without the added cost and the mess. Generally Anti seize is used when temperatures are to high for grease to be used.
Click to expand...
You know I was ready to antiseize mine all up (aluminum, no inserts) but when I called the manufacturer they said no antiseize. I live in the desert but I think I'm gonna go back through them and put some on when it comes time to retorque them. They haven't been driven on yet, but soon they should be.
 
JimLee said:
You know I was ready to antiseize mine all up (aluminum, no inserts) but when I called the manufacturer they said no antiseize. I live in the desert but I think I'm gonna go back through them and put some on when it comes time to retorque them. They haven't been driven on yet, but soon they should be.
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It can't hurt. I'm probably over cautious when it comes to that stuff. Sometimes I forget you guys out west have much less of a issue with it.
 
For my needs, I've been reluctant to go to BLs. But, for this upcoming tire change, I made a step in that direction with the Icon Dynamics Rebound Pro wheels. We'll see if they are enough for my uses.
 
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