Air actuated no limits swaybar disco

NevadaZielmeister said:
For people who live not 5 minutes from wheeling, it is a huge benefit. Also, who wants to jump up and down on their rig to get the disconnects to line up to reconnect their seay bar? This is so easy and safer than the manual disconnect links.

Airing down is not necessary when I wheel since it is already aired down. With children and wife, time is at a premium.

Here is 15 minutes from my front door:

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Beautiful looking jeep man.
 
Lets get this train back on track :thumb:

For those of you that are saying "sell your motors" please understand this.......
The entire gear case looking silver thing is not a motor, it is a set of gears that that get locked or unlocked by a pin, that is controlled by a actuator. Yes its a small electric motor but I think most are missing the point. I hope this clears it up a bit. In other words, dont sell anything, you will need what you think you want to sell!!!!

The reason behind the EVO manual and air no limits disconnects is simply this. If you have ever messed with a stock unlocked Rubicon sway bar, you will realize that even though it is unlocked, it its still limited in how much it moves, the evo stuff makes it 100% unlocked and nothing keeping it from stopping. Keep this in mind for later.

This is the complete sway bar, installed, from the factory.
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496 pin connector unplugged. This thing is stupid. :mad: I kill it later on though :thumb:
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Next up I am going to pull the sway bar "motor" out and show some side by side comparison of the factory actuator and the EVO No Limits On Demand Air Actuator.
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Here is a quick shot of the compressor and the ARB solenoid with the ARB fitting installed. In answer to the question, how to hook everything up, I am going to run the sway bar disco off the solenoid in the picture. On the second port with the hex head plug in it I have a 2 port manifold on the way that will screw in to the ARB manifold, that will hold the solenoids that run the lockers. More on that way later. I am still short parts but want to get this mofo going. I have hooked up a similar set up in my buddy's 4 runner and the little compressor held up so Im also anxious to see if this little thing can run it all, if not Ill have to re do everything with a dual compressor.
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Up next is what the pin looks like with the actuator off. I didn't take a pic of it when it was dirty but once you pull the stock actuator off, clean out the gear case real good and put some fresh grease in it. The big circle with the grease around it is what moves the forks that unlock the gears, So air goes in to pin, pin pushes in that pin in the case, sway bar goes loose. I used a combo of 99% alcohol and brake cleaner to get this thing shinny.

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A light coat of oil on the o rings and a very thin coat of grease on the actuator pin, some more grease to help hold the o ring that seals the no limits to the gear case and its ready to bolt on, so I thought. Its so fucking hot in my garage I had to freeze the o ring to shrink it a bit. It took a sec but its on and sealed up.
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Quickly before the o ring heads south, make sure the pin is in, the bolts line up and lock it down.
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Aside from checking the air at the compressor and putting the no limits on, I am at a stand still waiting on more parts but I did manage to kill that huge fing plug. Pics, because it happened. ;)

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Ta DAAAAAA. Carefull because that red wire is constant hot. Ax me how I know :doh:
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Finally with all the wires capped off and the giant 6x9 size plug gone, I can secure the wires without them being in the way. Looped right back in with the factory wiring, like it never happened.

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A quick turn of the key and yep, sway bar light flashing so dip it out and its gone. There is no going back now.

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2nd.gunman said:
How does EVO no limits give more flex than the stock motor? I'm not seeing it
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It doesn't. What it does do tho is it allows you to stay disconnected at over 15 mph. The stock motor automatically reconnects at that point. Also the only reason j would replace the motor is if it stops working. A new motor is stupid expensive so the no limits and the no limits on demand are a hell of a lot cheaper
 
cozdude said:
It doesn't. What it does do tho is it allows you to stay disconnected at over 15 mph. The stock motor automatically reconnects at that point. Also the only reason j would replace the motor is if it stops working. A new motor is stupid expensive so the no limits and the no limits on demand are a hell of a lot cheaper
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That was my understanding.

Apparently Evil knows something you and I don't.
 
2nd.gunman said:
That was my understanding.

Apparently Evil knows something you and I don't.
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There are two gears inside of the housing and only so much room for them to move. For you to disconnect even with the stock motor they need to be separated by pushing the one gear off the other. No offense to evil but if he thinks he is going to get more flex out of the no limits because t separates the gears more then he is mistaken. Flex is determined by shock length, how much bump your running, and if your disconnected or not lol
 
Seems to me if it goes out then time to swap it with a standard bar and quick disconnects. Our would that be more of a pain in the ass?
 
Draconianwinter said:
Seems to me if it goes out then time to swap it with a standard bar and quick disconnects. Our would that be more of a pain in the ass?
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If the motor goes just buy the cheaper no limits for $80 instead of paying at least double that for a sport swaybar then new disco links on top of it
 
Evil said:
Up next is what the pin looks like with the actuator off. I didn't take a pic of it when it was dirty but once you pull the stock actuator off, clean out the gear case real good and put some fresh grease in it. The big circle with the grease around it is what moves the forks that unlock the gears, So air goes in to pin, pin pushes in that pin in the case, sway bar goes loose. I used a combo of 99% alcohol and brake cleaner to get this thing shinny.

View attachment 219280

A light coat of oil on the o rings and a very thin coat of grease on the actuator pin, some more grease to help hold the o ring that seals the no limits to the gear case and its ready to bolt on, so I thought. Its so fucking hot in my garage I had to freeze the o ring to shrink it a bit. It took a sec but its on and sealed up.
View attachment 219281

Quickly before the o ring heads south, make sure the pin is in, the bolts line up and lock it down.
View attachment 219284
Click to expand...

Just a word to the wise on O-rings...standard Buna-N O-rings are a petroleum based product; do not use petroleum based products like oil or Vaseline to lubricate them...they will absorb the lubricant and change durometer (hardness)...you should use a silicone based lubricant. I owned a scuba repair facility for 30 years and consumed over 14,000 O-rings per year...
 
I'm still trying to hook mine up. I have a twin ARB and with my ARB lockers for the front & back. Anyone have any info would be nice.
 
tooslow76 said:
I'm still trying to hook mine up. I have a twin ARB and with my ARB lockers for the front & back. Anyone have any info would be nice.
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I assume You would need to put a t fitting off of one of the manifold holes since you have lockers on both of them already. I would prob put it on the same one as the front locker so you will not have to worry about it engaging accidentally
 
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