3.6L Oil Filter/Cooler Adaptor Housing Replacement

Hilop

Hilop

Caught the Bug
Anyone have a little mixed coolant/oil in their coolant reservoir after? I had a little milkshake going but washed it out and there’s no sign of it at the cap.
 
Mybadjk

Mybadjk

Caught the Bug
So got the oil cooler swapped, installed a new lower intake and fuel rail. Only to find out I had 3 quarts in the engine on a 750 mile oil change.. assuming I wasted maybe a quart when I pulled the cooler.

Very doubtful the cooler with the sensor will fix it the issue. Seems to be a common issue with the 3.6 engine where they’ve gone from 10k+ miles on them. So to spend $4600-5500 on a mopar/jasper engine or ls swap. Don’t feel like trying my luck with a used engine..


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
wjtstudios

wjtstudios

Hooked
Mybadjk said:
So got the oil cooler swapped, installed a new lower intake and fuel rail. Only to find out I had 3 quarts in the engine on a 750 mile oil change.. assuming I wasted maybe a quart when I pulled the cooler.

Very doubtful the cooler with the sensor will fix it the issue. Seems to be a common issue with the 3.6 engine where they’ve gone from 10k+ miles on them. So to spend $4600-5500 on a mopar/jasper engine or ls swap. Don’t feel like trying my luck with a used engine..


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Damn that sucks. Decision time!


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
 
shorawitz

shorawitz

New member
BlackKnight said:
Has anyone seen the all-aluminum oil cooler/filter replacement? I saw it the other day but didn't save the link...
Click to expand...
Yes. It's made by Dorman. I bought mine off of Amazon and it came with all of the seals and intake gaskets. Had the same issues reported here with the injector electrical connectors. I thought I had it all installed correctly, only to find that the oil leak was worse. I think I torqued the housing bolts down incorrectly and the seals didn't seat correctly. Sooo, I went to NAPA and bought a new set of gaskets and seals (VERY EXPENSIVE compared to Amazon) as I wanted to get it running before the work-week starts. Using all FEL-PRO gaskets and seals. Hopefully all goes well this time.
 
S

Sinlessearth

New member
First of all, thank you! This is a great write-up.

I figured I would go ahead an share my experience.

I have had to do this twice so far. The first time was at about the 100,000 mile mark and the second at the 112,000 mile mark. After thinking about it, I think only the seals went bad on the first housing as there wasn't any oil on the housing itself, only in the valley. The second one appears the have leaked around the cooler itself and may have started leaking coolant at the seals because one of the seals was very corroded and gritty. The second housing was purchased on Amazon and has a lifetime warranty which sounds good until you spend your lifetime changing housings. They sent a replacement before I even torn it apart so I guess that is good. This time I also ordered the Fel-Pro gaskets (ES73012) hoping the SI blend would be better than the rubber ones that come with the Amazon housing. Well I went to put these seals in and the one closest to the extended port seemed to be carved deeper because the Fel-Pro seal barely protruded above the plastic. Needless to say I installed it with the same crap rubber seals again. I have a bad feeling I will be doing this for a third time however, if so I'll just fork up the money and get one from the dealer, ugh. During the install I discovered my driver's side valve cover started leaking around cylinder 4's sparkplug hole, oh joy. I might get to this in the future however, after watching videos of the passenger side valve cover gasket replacement....if it starts leaking I'll have to sell it because that looks terrible and I'll break something for sure.

If you don't have a 90 degree pick, get one. The red locks on fuel injector plugs are the worst. The first install went okay with a small flat screwdriver however, the second one did not. Maybe I was tired or irritated but I broke two of the locks. I almost didn't get the last one off, luckily my wife was patient enough and saved the day. When I put it back together I didn't lock them so hopefully that wasn't a mistake.

Overall the job is worth the savings spent at a dealer, assuming you don't destroy any connectors. It just takes time & patience. The people that say it’s a couple hour job, good on your part. It took me 4-6 hours each time. Maybe I take too much time cleaning the area, I don't know.

Anyway thanks again for the write-up and good luck to all that perform the job.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
Sinlessearth said:
First of all, thank you! This is a great write-up.

I figured I would go ahead an share my experience.

I have had to do this twice so far. The first time was at about the 100,000 mile mark and the second at the 112,000 mile mark. After thinking about it, I think only the seals went bad on the first housing as there wasn't any oil on the housing itself, only in the valley. The second one appears the have leaked around the cooler itself and may have started leaking coolant at the seals because one of the seals was very corroded and gritty. The second housing was purchased on Amazon and has a lifetime warranty which sounds good until you spend your lifetime changing housings. They sent a replacement before I even torn it apart so I guess that is good. This time I also ordered the Fel-Pro gaskets (ES73012) hoping the SI blend would be better than the rubber ones that come with the Amazon housing. Well I went to put these seals in and the one closest to the extended port seemed to be carved deeper because the Fel-Pro seal barely protruded above the plastic. Needless to say I installed it with the same crap rubber seals again. I have a bad feeling I will be doing this for a third time however, if so I'll just fork up the money and get one from the dealer, ugh. During the install I discovered my driver's side valve cover started leaking around cylinder 4's sparkplug hole, oh joy. I might get to this in the future however, after watching videos of the passenger side valve cover gasket replacement....if it starts leaking I'll have to sell it because that looks terrible and I'll break something for sure.

If you don't have a 90 degree pick, get one. The red locks on fuel injector plugs are the worst. The first install went okay with a small flat screwdriver however, the second one did not. Maybe I was tired or irritated but I broke two of the locks. I almost didn't get the last one off, luckily my wife was patient enough and saved the day. When I put it back together I didn't lock them so hopefully that wasn't a mistake.

Overall the job is worth the savings spent at a dealer, assuming you don't destroy any connectors. It just takes time & patience. The people that say it’s a couple hour job, good on your part. It took me 4-6 hours each time. Maybe I take too much time cleaning the area, I don't know.

Anyway thanks again for the write-up and good luck to all that perform the job.
Click to expand...
I'm getting ready to do this on my daughter's 2015 JKU, instead of the plastic replacement I'm going with the new Dorman all aluminum unit.
Hopefully it's the last time the oil housing will need to be done
Also changing knock sensors, plugs, coils, coolant hose section, basically everything once I've got access to all those items.
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
jeeeep said:
I'm getting ready to do this on my daughter's 2015 JKU, instead of the plastic replacement I'm going with the new Dorman all aluminum unit.
Hopefully it's the last time the oil housing will need to be done
Also changing knock sensors, plugs, coils, coolant hose section, basically everything once I've got access to all those items.
Click to expand...
I was planning to buy the dorman too. I keep getting a weird code when I do oil changes. Might replace that and oil pressure sensor just to see.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
OverlanderJK said:
I was planning to buy the dorman too. I keep getting a weird code when I do oil changes. Might replace that and oil pressure sensor just to see.
Click to expand...
I was advised to also change the wire harness for the sensors

that number is 68085202AD (2015 JKU 3.6)
 
Cousin Clyde

Cousin Clyde

Hooked
I’ve had this thread open in another window for a couple weeks. I too am due for this. Was planning on OEM from the dealer, but I may go Dorman if you guys have confidence in it. Sounds like a better part.

Looks like OP had a copy of AllData. Anyone have experience with this?
 
Cousin Clyde

Cousin Clyde

Hooked
jeeeep said:
I'm getting ready to do this on my daughter's 2015 JKU, instead of the plastic replacement I'm going with the new Dorman all aluminum unit.
Hopefully it's the last time the oil housing will need to be done
Also changing knock sensors, plugs, coils, coolant hose section, basically everything once I've got access to all those items.
Click to expand...

Would you want to replace the oil cooler itself? Seems like Dorman doesn’t recommend even bothering with the cooler itself. Is it really that bulletproof that’s it’s not worth swapping while you’re in there?
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
Cousin Clyde said:
Would you want to replace the oil cooler itself? Seems like Dorman doesn’t recommend even bothering with the cooler itself. Is it really that bulletproof that’s it’s not worth swapping while you’re in there?
Click to expand...
the upgraded oil filter housing comes with an oil cooler , look at dorman 926-959
 
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