When installing Ball Joints, apply anti-seize to BJ or going in Dry?

1RNGR

1RNGR

Caught the Bug
I have seen several videos installing ball joints where people are applying anti-seize. However, when watching a Wayalife video on installing ball joints, I didn't see a step for apply anti-seize. Also, the Service Manual makes no mention of a step to apply anti-seize. Are there upsides and downsides to applying anti-seize when installing Ball Joints? My Synergy ball joints arrive tomorrow so I'm triple checking that I understand all the tricks.
 
Lunentucker

Lunentucker

Active Member
I would follow the manufacturer's instructions. They should come with the new ball joints or be on their website.

Anti-seize would be Ok on the threads, but not necessary.

 
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MajD

MajD

New member
1RNGR said:
I have seen several videos installing ball joints where people are applying anti-seize. However, when watching a Wayalife video on installing ball joints, I didn't see a step for apply anti-seize. Also, the Service Manual makes no mention of a step to apply anti-seize. Are there upsides and downsides to applying anti-seize when installing Ball Joints? My Synergy ball joints arrive tomorrow so I'm triple checking that I understand all the tricks.
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Ball joints are a press fitting, no need to apply anti-seize. Clean the C fitting out first with some very fine grit sandpaper or emery cloth before pressing the new ones in. You want to do this softly, so you do not gouge the metal. I also hit it with brakleen, let it evaporate and then wipe it with a clean towel after that just to make sure it's clean and there is no residue before the press.

Another trick is to put the ball joints in the freezer over-night (or a few hours) before pressing them in. Thermal contraction will make them easier to press in. Anti-seize is really unnecessary because if you press into a clean fitting your ball-joint tool can easily remove it in the future. Nothing should be able to get between the C and the body of the ball joint anyways. (Assuming it's a quality Ball Joint)
 
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Cousin Clyde

Cousin Clyde

Hooked
MajD said:
Ball joints are a press fitting, no need to apply anti-seize. Clean the C fitting out first with some very fine grit sandpaper or emery cloth before pressing the new ones in. You want to do this softly, so you do not gouge the metal. I also hit it with brakleen, let it evaporate and then wipe it with a clean towel after that just to make sure it's clean and there is no residue before the press.

Another trick is to put the ball joints in the freezer over-night (or a few hours) before pressing them in. Thermal contraction will make them easier to press in. Anti-seize is really unnecessary because if you press into a clean fitting your ball-joint tool can easily remove it in the future. Nothing should be able to get between the C and the body of the ball joint anyways. (Assuming it's a quality Ball Joint)
Click to expand...

This is all good install practice.
However, I used to not use antiseize on BJs and then started using it, and when it comes to removing them after a couple years, it is way easier popping them out if they’ve been installed with a little antiseize.

Someone correct me if there’s some potential for catastrophic failure here, but I’ve never had a problem…
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
Cousin Clyde said:
This is all good install practice.
However, I used to not use antiseize on BJs and then started using it, and when it comes to removing them after a couple years, it is way easier popping them out if they’ve been installed with a little antiseize.
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I do the same . Antiseize makes it way easier for repairs. I also put it around the unit bearing where it goes into the knuckle.
 
pop2tu

pop2tu

Active Member
My dad had a small tube of anti- seize break open in the tool box on his truck. For the next 10 years we covered in that shit every time we got a tool out. I remember wiping out the inside and all tools with solvent and rags. Didn’t change anything
 
MajD

MajD

New member
Cousin Clyde said:
This is all good install practice.
However, I used to not use antiseize on BJs and then started using it, and when it comes to removing them after a couple years, it is way easier popping them out if they’ve been installed with a little antiseize.

Someone correct me if there’s some potential for catastrophic failure here, but I’ve never had a problem…
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Your probably safe to use it, all the mechanics I know do not when I asked them about it several years ago before I gave my first BJ lol. The thing is your C is only good for so many BJ's before you've essentially worn it out. Putting some lube in the hole on an axle that's getting loose from being pounded so many times makes me nervous for that potential catastrophic failure. This is honestly why I went with American Iron Offroad ball joint deletes. I can rebuild the spherical bearing in place without having to remove the body from the C so I should theoretically never have to press in anything in the future.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
MajD said:
Your probably safe to use it, all the mechanics I know do not when I asked them about it several years ago before I gave my first BJ lol. The thing is your C is only good for so many BJ's before you've essentially worn it out. Putting some lube in the hole on an axle that's getting loose from being pounded so many times makes me nervous for that potential catastrophic failure. This is honestly why I went with American Iron Offroad ball joint deletes. I can rebuild the spherical bearing in place without having to remove the body from the C so I should theoretically never have to press in anything in the future.
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I would be the first to say that I'm totally new to this Jeep thing and don't know a whole lot about working on them but in my limited experience, I can't say that I have EVER had an issue with the end forgings wearing out from ball joint replacements on ANY of the Jeeps I've had and or still have. But, maybe I'll learn the hard way some day.
 
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MajD

MajD

New member
Look, use anti-seize or don't use anti-seize it probably won't make a difference if you get your press right. I'm not in a dick measuring competition with any of you and I'm not going to die on this hill. This is what I hate about forums, you try to be helpful and give an opinion and the gang jumps in on you. I have some machinists in my family, and we've had this discussion a number of times. Any press fittings will eventually wear out. That is a fact, and you don't have to have a degree in engineering to google search that. The likelihood of it happening over lifespan of an axle would depend on a lot of factors. If you get your presses right the tolerances will allow that axle to last for a long time and will likely not be the determinate factor in that vehicle ending up in the recycle pile. Press enough fittings into it over time and or gouge it doing it incorrectly and the metal will wear improperly causing premature failure. Has it happened to you and you do it all of the time? No? well maybe you know what you're doing and you buy good quality products. Have press fittings failed? yes they have. With computerized machining these days Dana is getting tolerances closer to .001 to .002 so they are incredibly tight. Is there a magic number of how many times it takes to wear it out? The answer is no because there is to many variables. My entire point is to take the conservative approach for safety by reducing the likelihood of premature failure by not wearing it out to begin with. You do you Eddie/WJCO
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
MajD said:
Look, use anti-seize or don't use anti-seize it probably won't make a difference if you get your press right. I'm not in a dick measuring competition with any of you and I'm not going to die on this hill. This is what I hate about forums, you try to be helpful and give an opinion and the gang jumps in on you. I have some machinists in my family, and we've had this discussion a number of times. Any press fittings will eventually wear out. That is a fact, and you don't have to have a degree in engineering to google search that. The likelihood of it happening over lifespan of an axle would depend on a lot of factors. If you get your presses right the tolerances will allow that axle to last for a long time and will likely not be the determinate factor in that vehicle ending up in the recycle pile. Press enough fittings into it over time and or gouge it doing it incorrectly and the metal will wear improperly causing premature failure. Has it happened to you and you do it all of the time? No? well maybe you know what you're doing and you buy good quality products. Have press fittings failed? yes they have. With computerized machining these days Dana is getting tolerances closer to .001 to .002 so they are incredibly tight. Is there a magic number of how many times it takes to wear it out? The answer is no because there is to many variables. My entire point is to take the conservative approach for safety by reducing the likelihood of premature failure by not wearing it out to begin with. You do you Eddie/WJCO
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Those ball joint deletes are fucking trash. Absolutely no conservative approach to safety with those things. You do you though.
 
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