What driveshafts are you running?

Seeing how you are looking at 1350's you are already on the right track..haha. I don't have anything bad about my new 1350 JE Reel rear as it only has about 500 miles on it. In addition to JE Reel, I hear good things about Coast and Adams drive shafts as well.

Edit: After having my 1310 front serviced and my old 1310 rear rebuilt at a local driveline shop I will not be running anything other than a drive shaft with Spicer solid u-joints. It was explained to me they are a bit stronger than Spicer greasable and Neapco's. Plus no need to try and squeeze the needle tip of the grease gun into them. Being that he has an Ultra 4 car sitting in his shop I'll take his word for it..haha.
 
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I hear nothing but good things about Adams. And it's a local company here around Vegas. Probably one of the next things to upgrade when necessary
 
I run the Adam's 1350 front. Easy install and I don't have any vibrations from it. And can also rest easy for when I make the jump to 37s.
 
I am running a 1350 J E Reel front shaft, when I get to the point to replace the rear, it'll be J E Reel as well. They'll take care of you!
 
Running front and rear Adams 1350s. No problems whatsoever. Smooth as glass right out of the box.
James is a great guy and will take good care of you.

Just follow the instructions on the website about how to measure. They also have some install videos if you need that kind of info.
Really watch the "package deals" that some companies have as I ended up with the wrong rear shaft and had to send it back.
 
I'm really happy with my Adams driveshaft so far. I called and ordered directly from them and ended up getting the owner on the phone. Great dude, answered all of my questions.
 
Also, just want to echo the statements above that the solid (non-greasable) u-joints are stronger than the greasable. That part is a no brainer regardless of what brand you go with.
 
I run a coast front drive line and a JE Reel rear. Happy with both. Though ALL my u - joints are greasable... interesting...
 
Is there a simple why or when to upgrade? No issues so far with my stock shafts but I think I'm at my limits of geometry. I have torn the rear boot off at some point. What's about to happen next? I try to stay off skinny pedal but it's not always the option, already running Revolution axle shafts due to stock failure.
JKU 4" rancho sport
35 Toyos
Thanks Steve
 
Are there any real differences between the brands? Seems like all 3 are very popular and work well. Can anyone articulate a reason to go with one over the other?
 
I run 1350 J.E. Reel front and rear. The front felt more stout and had solid I-joints, the rear had greasable. I bought the front first when I did the lift and did the rear a few months later when I tore the boot. The front has about 15k miles and the rear is at about 8k. So far no failures and I think I have a rear vibration at 90+mph, a very faint oscillating noise. other then that they seem to be holding up strong
 
Went with Adams. Lifetime warranty and the claim they'll run on 44's vs. 37's J.E. Reel says their max tire size is has to say something. And the skull and cross driveshafts shirt is gonna be kinda cool. Thanks for all the input guys.
 
Wanted to add the front (1310) with non-servicable u-joints and center ball in the CV yielded about 25K miles when it developed a slight chirp and I had it rebuilt. The rear had just been greased and had the same amount of miles when the CV grenaded playing in the rocks on 35's. Fortunately Aspenkid had a brand new JE Reel 1350 rear and it worked to get me off the trail and all the way back home. The guys at JE Reel (without looking at it) thought maybe it over articulated and went into a bind. My local driveline shop said no because there were no marks of a bind and that either the u-joint let go or the t-case yoke let go. Either way it trashed the CV. So now I have a rebuilt 1310 rear as a trail spare...:). JAGS I'll make sure to bring all the mounting bolts..;).
 
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