Swanky Builds Thread

JakeJK

New member
Been a little slow on mods lately, Honestly because we haven't had time. Since comming off the Rubicon we have been on a trail somewhere every weekend. After last weekends debacle on a muddy hill I waived the white flag and HAD to catch up on some much needed cleaning.

A part of me was sad to see all the Rubicon dust leave the interior, but it's good having my mall crawler back ;).

I even did a super clean and rash repaint on the belly. :yup:

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The sad thing is I did all this and I'm trail guiding my local clubs event this weekend so it will likely not last past Saturday morning :crazyeyes:


Oh, and I was informed by Kegan that I need to update things on his Jeep too. (Axial Wraith) He takes it with us most of the time when we are out and wheels when we are stuck in a spot for more than 15 minutes. He was bummed to not have it on the Rubicon, but there simply wasn't room.

Anyway, Last weekend he broke the equivalent of a lower ball joint so we hooked his rig up with some new aluminium knuckles.

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I still haven't replaced Alana's D-Link yet but will next weekend (our first non-wheeling weekend this summer). I also got a replacement track-bar from Metalcloak with the new bushing design for Dirty. I will likely tackle that and adding the much needed additional front bump next weekend as well.

What do you use to paint your undercarriage?
 
What do you use to paint your undercarriage?

Ace Hardware (Cheap) Semi-Gloss Black. (Sometimes Rustoleum if I'm too lazy to go to ACE.) The trick isn't the paint it's the cleaning... If it's dirty the paint will not stick nor prevent rust.
 
New tool arrived today!

The analog angle gauge I had started to stick when put on a small angle (ball joint) plus it wasn't as accurate as I'd like. I can dial in (or at least read) caster much better at home now. :wings:

IMG_20150911_163650909.jpg
 
Which how does that work?

It has a magnetic base. You can use it on the top of the ball joint to read caster directly or use it on the case spreader holes on the axle and shoot for as close to 90 degrees from the ground as possible before you get drive-line vibrations.
 

JakeJK

New member
It has a magnetic base. You can use it on the top of the ball joint to read caster directly or use it on the case spreader holes on the axle and shoot for as close to 90 degrees from the ground as possible before you get drive-line vibrations.

Hmmm that's pretty nifty!
 
Yup... My other one was/is this style, but it seems to be just a tad too big and the needle sticks easily. (But I've had it for years)

Johnson.jpg



Edit: man adding that picture kicked my ass LOL
 
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JK_Dave

Caught the Bug
Agreed with the analog guage. It's all well and good if you can be within a couple of degrees on something, but to measure caster where 1-2 degrees could mean the difference, it sucks. At least it was cheap. How much was that digital one if you don't mind me asking?
 
Agreed with the analog guage. It's all well and good if you can be within a couple of degrees on something, but to measure caster where 1-2 degrees could mean the difference, it sucks. At least it was cheap. How much was that digital one if you don't mind me asking?

The analog one was fine for a whole degree, but no way I could get tenths right....

The digital was $33 on Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U6YHY0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01
 
I did a bit of maintenance on Dirty this weekend.

I replaced my upper shock bushings. I have had a hard time keeping my reservoirs in place and from rotating and had them pretty tight. I think this tightness did most of the damage, but Dirty does see a bunch of trail use so it's not too surprising it was time for some love. You can see the difference in the picture below. This was the better set and after they had sat and "reshaped" for over an hour.

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I also finally got around to replacing my front track bar. Metalcloak had some problems with their original Clevite bushings and if you flex a bunch they would work their way out. They have since reworked the bar and have a new bushing style. They were kind enough to send me a replacement bar with the new bushings at no cost as long as I was willing to send them my old one. This is no problem, because the bar was no good to me anyway. I'm hoping the new bushing does the trick. It sure is tight. I greased the hell out of it but still cut the outside of the new bushings a bit getting it installed.

Here is the old VS new. Note it also now has a forged threaded end as well.

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Last and certainly least... I finally added my stickers I picked up at the Louisville Expo when Andrew (noroad) and Scott ( GRNHORN) were in town to work on Scott's Jeep.

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DWiggles

Caught the Bug
Great looking jeep!
What are you thoughts on the MetalCloak lift? I'm looking to lift my jeep in the near future, and this is one of the lifts I was interested in until I ran into the negative "hear-say" but as you seem to regularly "test" yours, I was wondering if you could share your opinion? Thanks and AWESOME jeep! :thumb:
 
Great looking jeep!
What are you thoughts on the MetalCloak lift? I'm looking to lift my jeep in the near future, and this is one of the lifts I was interested in until I ran into the negative "hear-say" but as you seem to regularly "test" yours, I was wondering if you could share your opinion? Thanks and AWESOME jeep! :thumb:

Thanks for the complements. I do not have a full Metalcloak lift. I have their arms, front trackbar, and coils. You just read my issue with the trackbar.

I also had a problem with the rear bracket and bar from them. On both issues MC was more than helpful and genuinely wanted to resolve my problem(s). In the case of the rear bar and bracket. I tested an EVO that I had with the stock bar and my handling issue was resolved.

I really like their arms and coils and do recommend them. The only other coil I really like is the EVO plush rides, but if you like to take corners fast they are a touch too soft IMO.
 

JK_Dave

Caught the Bug
Great looking jeep!
What are you thoughts on the MetalCloak lift? I'm looking to lift my jeep in the near future, and this is one of the lifts I was interested in until I ran into the negative "hear-say" but as you seem to regularly "test" yours, I was wondering if you could share your opinion? Thanks and AWESOME jeep! :thumb:

Not trying to butt in, but I'm not super impressed with the OME shocks. I probably would've tried another brand instead like Bilstein, Fox, etc.
 
Not trying to butt in, but I'm not super impressed with the OME shocks. I probably would've tried another brand instead like Bilstein, Fox, etc.

Not butting in at all. The more opinions the better....

I have Bilstein 5160s and will NOT go with a Bilstein product again. I have them only because I won them. I personally like the OME shocks but I do see where they could be too soft for a heavy wheel tire combo.

I wonder if they tweaked the valving in their exclusive Rock Sport shocks. (Which I'm pretty sure are rebranded OME shocks, which are rebranded Monroe shocks LOL)
 

JakeJK

New member
Not butting in at all. The more opinions the better....

I have Bilstein 5160s and will NOT go with a Bilstein product again. I have them only because I won them. I personally like the OME shocks but I do see where they could be too soft for a heavy wheel tire combo.

I wonder if they tweaked the valving in their exclusive Rock Sport shocks. (Which I'm pretty sure are rebranded OME shocks, which are rebranded Monroe shocks LOL)

Why don't you like bilsteins?
 
Why don't you like bilsteins?

They are valved too firmly and their finish doesn't hold up well at all. Lastly, they do not have a sufficient reservoir mounting option for JKs.

Did you see the bushings above? Even with me possibly over doing it on the tightness. They should last longer IMO.
 
More little tinkering projects..... Saving for bigger things over the winter and next spring. :brows:

I finally finished up the a-pillar trim pieces after installing Lil-Punkin's cage.

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Then, after some much needed interior cleaning I remote mounted the garage door opener. The unit itself is sealed and installed inside the dash while the button is now just to the right of the column.

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Then I cleaned some more... It seemed my hands were pretty dirty :doh:
 
I just noticed that I graduated to "Old Timer" :crazyeyes: I celebrated with a new avatar :yup:

Big thanks to Eddie for the shot!
 
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