Stuck Front E-Locker Trail Fix

GoldenJK

GoldenJK

New member
Figured the repair today on Slaughterhouse deserved a thread. On the run today my front e-locker stuck and wouldn't disengage. Both front and rear would lock just fine and the rear would disengage okay but front wouldn't. The idiot light on the dash would just flash and jeep could barely turn. We tried unplugging the wiring, tried running in reverse, switch to 2wd, drove around real hard to "bounce" it free, raised the front wheels off the ground and tried spinning them back and forth. Nothing worked, still stuck, and as expected jeep will barely turn on pavement. Definitely not drivable on pavement.

Plan was to either pull the axels or remove the diff cover and see it we could free it. Thanks to slimebones who had a bottle of gear oil, we opted to pull the diff cover. View attachment 208922
Pulled the cover and with a flat screwdriver you can pry/slide the locker. H8Roads was doing that while I fired up the jeep to engage/disengage the locker. Did that and it worked. All free and able to drive to the bar for a cold beer.
Here is a picture of the locker I found on the web.
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1466305562.988516.jpg
Something to note is you may be able to do this trail repair without removing the diff cover. Depending your cover, you can access the locker with a screwdriver stuck through the fill hole to slide the locker.

So a question.... We got it working and got home but now what? I don't want it to happen again so what repair is needed? Just pull the cover and clean it real good, rebuild the locker? Replace it? I've heard Jeep makes you buy the whole assembly which sounds expensive. Anyone with experience with this? Suggestions?
 
GoldenJK said:
Figured the repair today on Slaughterhouse deserved a thread. On the run today my front e-locker stuck and wouldn't disengage. Both front and rear would lock just fine and the rear would disengage okay but front wouldn't. The idiot light on the dash would just flash and jeep could barely turn. We tried unplugging the wiring, tried running in reverse, switch to 2wd, drove around real hard to "bounce" it free, raised the front wheels off the ground and tried spinning them back and forth. Nothing worked, still stuck, and as expected jeep will barely turn on pavement. Definitely not drivable on pavement.

Plan was to either pull the axels or remove the diff cover and see it we could free it. Thanks to slimebones who had a bottle of gear oil, we opted to pull the diff cover.
Pulled the cover and with a flat screwdriver you can pry/slide the locker. H8Roads was doing that while I fired up the jeep to engage/disengage the locker. Did that and it worked. All free and able to drive to the bar for a cold beer.
Here is a picture of the locker I found on the web.

Something to note is you may be able to do this trail repair without removing the diff cover. Depending your cover, you can access the locker with a screwdriver stuck through the fill hole to slide the locker.

So a question.... We got it working and got home but now what? I don't want it to happen again so what repair is needed? Just pull the cover and clean it real good, rebuild the locker? Replace it? I've heard Jeep makes you buy the whole assembly which sounds expensive. Anyone with experience with this? Suggestions?
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Glad you got it free and didn't have to pull the axle.
 
This happened to me recently but in my case it finally just unlocked itself. I did a little research since then and come to find out this is a pretty common issue with these OEM Rubi lockers. The problem is these lockers really aren't serviceable. From what I've read, if they are under warranty, the dealership simply replaces the whole carrier. They have recently made the magnets available but I think it's more likely the waveform spring that weakens and then doesn't have enough force to push the locker back open. For future reference, you shouldn't have to pull the entire diff cover to disengage the locker. The removal of the fill plug should give you enough room to stick a small flat head screwdriver in and push the plate over. Time to start saving for a new locker. OX makes a replacement that will allow you to keep the 30 spline axles I believe or go ARB and get 35 splines axles.
 
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It's not going to get any better. You can replace it with a factory one but it will end up the same if you wheel a lot.
 
Apologies Dan. Didn't know you had the problem after the run. The least I could have done is lend some moral support.
 
What ttfhell said. I recently found the replacement mag/solenoid can be purchased separately from the locker and I'll do that to patch it for now. The damn things are too sensitive and I'll be dumping mine next year for the ARB.
 
So I bought a Rubicon, but I'll need to replace my lockers with ARB eventually, my disengageable sway bar still will need quick disconnects to get full droop (if the motor doesn't die first) and the rock rails aren't really made to take a direct hit. What did I pay for?
 
GraniteCrystal said:
So I bought a Rubicon, but I'll need to replace my lockers with ARB eventually, my disengageable sway bar still will need quick disconnects to get full droop (if the motor doesn't die first) and the rock rails aren't really made to take a direct hit. What did I pay for?
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Lol, when I bought mine I had no idea I be using it the way I do. Had I stuck with just running trails that were off the beaten path I'd probably be good with stock, but doing what I do now and as often as I do it I prefer more reliability and strength.
 
Had this problem with mine, only it was the rear.
The thin sleeve seems to get deformed and jams in the locked position.
Took it into Jeep and they replaced the entire carrier including all new bearings. .
Should be covered under the drive line warranty.
 
Sharkey said:
That's the first time I've ever heard that. I don't know anyone with quick disconnects on the OEM Rubi swaybar.
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ttfhell said:
Maybe just longer links ...
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Yeah, maybe just longer links. H8ROADS was telling me yesterday that the Rubicon will allow each side to operate independently but will still be limited in down travel by the sway bars. Thus, for max travel I'll still want disconnects at some point.
 
GraniteCrystal said:
Yeah, maybe just longer links. H8ROADS was telling me yesterday that the Rubicon will allow each side to operate independently but will still be limited in down travel by the sway bars. Thus, for max travel I'll still want disconnects at some point.
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That doesn't make sense to me.
 
Sharkey said:
Agreed. That is nonsensical. He must not be running the correct links. There is no way droop would be greater than the freed swaybar turned down plus the length of a proper link.
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Not to mention that you'll likely taco your links because they'll invert....
 
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On the same note, I have the same year and model as GoldenJK. My front locker works as designed, but when front is engaged, the indicator light just flashes instead of going solid "on". Is this a sign of something adverse happening here also and is there a preventive measure that I can do?
 
Slimebones said:
On the same note, I have the same year and model as GoldenJK. My front locker works as designed, but when front is engaged, the indicator light just flashes instead of going solid "on". Is this a sign of something adverse happening here also and is there a preventive measure that I can do?
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Could be the position sensor. If it is, changing it out on the front requires pulling the diff out slightly. To me it wouldn't be worth worrying about, and I have bad OCD about stuff like that.
 
Granite_head said:
Could be the position sensor. If it is, changing it out on the front requires pulling the diff out slightly. To me it wouldn't be worth worrying about, and I have bad OCD about stuff like that.
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Sounds logical. Just wondering if others have had this issue.
 
Slimebones said:
On the same note, I have the same year and model as GoldenJK. My front locker works as designed, but when front is engaged, the indicator light just flashes instead of going solid "on". Is this a sign of something adverse happening here also and is there a preventive measure that I can do?
Click to expand...

Remove your diff cover clean diff. Instal cover and refill. Mine was acting up like that. Did this with both front and rear diffs. Haven't had a problem in a year now. If you wheel a lot I believe the service interval is 15k mi. On the rubicons for diffs.
 
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