Steering wheel judder.

Turns out the track bar does have movement. Very minimal. But still noticeable. It took about 10 wheel turns back and forth for me to really see the movement. Thank you WJCO.

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WJCO said:
No problem. Hope you get it fixed.
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I spoke to Spence at core 4x4 and he explained to me that the less than 4in of lift adjust to stock length out to almost 5in. And the 3-6in of lift adjust from about 2in up to 7in. He was very quick to reply and very helpful. Great customer service. None the less I chose to go with the tier three less than 4in because it is able to adjust to stock length. I hope that fixes the judder.

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10abadilla/jk said:
I spoke to Spence at core 4x4 and he explained to me that the less than 4in of lift adjust to stock length out to almost 5in. And the 3-6in of lift adjust from about 2in up to 7in. He was very quick to reply and very helpful. Great customer service. None the less I chose to go with the tier three less than 4in because it is able to adjust to stock length. I hope that fixes the judder.

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Click to expand...

stock track bar? if so, you can buy a bushing replacement kit and call it a day.
 
jeeeep said:
stock track bar? if so, you can buy a bushing replacement kit and call it a day.
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Yea I contemplated that as an option. But pulled the trigger on a core 4x4 tier three instead. I figured I wanted to upgrade at one point anyways. Why not now. I like that It has the Johnny joint on the frame side. And it gives me the option to get a bigger lift if the time ever comes. I appreciate the information. Thank you.

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10abadilla/jk said:
Will do. If the bolt has always been tight is there still a chance it could have wollowed it self out. Just wondering? Should I consider reinforcing it?

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If just the track bar is moving, it's likely not the bolt hole, but check it anyways once you remove the old bar. The forces of pushing and pulling in that area can pull/push the bolt into the bracket and elongate it. No need to reinforce it if nothing is wrong with it. Which end shows movement anyways? Frame or axle?
 
WJCO said:
If just the track bar is moving, it's likely not the bolt hole, but check it anyways once you remove the old bar. The forces of pushing and pulling in that area can pull/push the bolt into the bracket and elongate it. No need to reinforce it if nothing is wrong with it. Which end shows movement anyways? Frame or axle?
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Frame side

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Good news is my steering wheel judder is gone. The front end feels amazing. Drives 10 times better then I expected. But like always with my jeep some new issues emerged. My SS is hitting the track bar. And the SS bracket is just touching the diff cover. Enough to scuff the paint. The bracket I can fix by replacing it. But does anyone have any ideas on how to prevent the SS from hitting the track bar? Should I eliminate the SS relocation bracket and and return it to the stock position? Any advise will be great. Thank you all in advance.
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This is also posted on my build thread.

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I had to turn my SS around... switching end for end

My old SS was a large diameter (fox 2.0), it was the only way to get it to work without hitting anything.

My new SS is almost the stock diameter and it clears fine either way now.
 
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10abadilla/jk said:
That makes sense thank you. I'll give that a try.

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I should mention that it may or may not work depending on the shape of your relocation bracket. Depending on how I had it angled it would twist the shock body into the bracket, but that could have been due the the bend in the shaft... which is why I have a new one, and it was also 1/2 the price of the fox which also was a factor that day.

Not the fact that it was a smaller diameter but I lucked out.
 
jkrichard said:
I should mention that it may or may not work depending on the shape of your relocation bracket. Depending on how I had it angled it would twist the shock body into the bracket, but that could have been due the the bend in the shaft... which is why I have a new one, and it was also 1/2 the price of the fox which also was a factor that day.

Not the fact that it was a smaller diameter but I lucked out.
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It did work. Well sorta. It clears about 1/4 of in inch when the tie rod is turned down. If the tie rode is lifted and turned it again hits the track bar.

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10abadilla/jk said:
I have a couple of people say the track bar is upside down. What does it look like to you?

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It's a weird looking bend, but some manufacturers build aftermarket track bars with some weird bends regardless. I did a little photo editing here to show roughly what it would look like flipped over and I think it will be worse. Looks like it will hit the pumpkin more and possibly hit trans cooler lines near the middle of the engine if you have those there. If it is hitting on the diff cover to the point where it's causing an issue, you can always add a little bump stop.

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In the other thread I thought it looked upside down. But I wouldn't correct it by turning it over that way. I would swap ends and reorient it, so that the "core 4x4" decal is on the passenger side facing the back of the vehicle. Does that make sense?
 
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