SteelBadger build

[wayoflife]

Thanks for the input! I have done some searching around and these two seemed to be recommended by many folks. Terraflex and Rubicon Express don't seem to garner too many positive reviews. I could be wrong of course as I am just learning about this stuff. The EVO kits are in the running too now.

Well, before you go off of what "many folks" recommend, may I suggest that you take that advice for what it is and understand that the experience most of these folks have is limited to the kit they've chosen to buy. More times than not, it's the ONLY kit they've ever run.

I thought about coil spacers to be sure but I have been told they can make the ride a little rough when used with stock springs.

I'm sure you've been told that but, did the people tell you that say what shocks they were running with the kit? Did they state whether or not they freed up the bind in the control arms after installing the lift? Just trying to keep things real here.

I am thinking that because the 2.5 lift will likely raise it higher than 2.5" the weight of all my mods may bring it down a bit to about 2.5 or a little more.

Even fully loaded up, MOST kits will STILL yield more lift than what is advertised. Trust me, I have personally tested out most of the springs out there and even if it were true, that weight can collapse a dual rate coil so that you'll always be riding on the firm side and that will give you a harsh ride. Here's an example of what I'm talking about:

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?12243-Rides-like-a-tank-RK-3-5

I like the stock fender flares and will likely keep them, or buy a few extra black pairs to bang up, so I lose a little height there I think. The 285s are what I am pretty sure I want. If I move up I would like a kit that can grow with me. Also with a 2.5 or so I was hoping to have more flex than a spacer can provide. Please, please correct me if I am wrong.

As theDuff stated, your shock length will be the limiting factor, not spacers.

Thanks again, Yup, I have started looking into drive shafts too. Different brands and 1310 vs 1350. Another area to learn about to be sure.

Being that you have a 4-door, you should be just fine with your rear shaft. If you choose to get a taller lift and/or longer shocks that will allow for more droop, a new 1310 shaft will get the job done for you. I personally would recommend a JE Reel or Coast as they are affordable and come with quality Neapco or Spicer u-joints.

 

[wayoflife]

Duff and Eddie have some great notes. For 285 (33s), you really could get by with spacer leveling kit or a budget boost type set up that will save you from having to do other mods. This is the route I'd go and maybe look at upgrading your shocks to some Ranchos or bilsteins.

If you may go with 35s, look at EVOs 3" plush ride coils. Pair with Ranchos or Bilsteins to save a few bucks that you could put toward the front driveshaft.

These are the few ways I'd consider given what you've posted thus far.

To be clear, a 285 will have an actual measurement of 33" and a tire that states 35" on the sidewall will have an actual measurement of about 33" as well.

 

[JAGS]

To be clear, a 285 will have an actual measurement of 33" and a tire that states 35" on the sidewall will have an actual measurement of about 33" as well.

Ah, good catch. I sometimes overlook the not as advertised size.


- Jason

 

[SteelBadger]

Well, before you go off of what "many folks" recommend, may I suggest that you take that advice for what it is and understand that the experience most of these folks have is limited to the kit they've chosen to buy. More times than not, it's the ONLY kit they've ever run.

That is a good point.

I'm sure you've been told that but, did the people tell you that say what shocks they were running with the kit? Did they state whether or not they freed up the bind in the control arms after installing the lift? Just trying to keep things real here.

I doubt most people I have spoken to even know what freeing up the bind even means, I know I don't!

Even fully loaded up, MOST kits will STILL yield more lift than what is advertised. Trust me, I have personally tested out most of the springs out there and even if it were true, that weight can collapse a dual rate coil so that you'll always be riding on the firm side and that will give you a harsh ride. Here's an example of what I'm talking about:

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?12243-Rides-like-a-tank-RK-3-5

Ah okay, I was thinking the weight would bring it down.

As theDuff stated, your shock length will be the limiting factor, not spacers.

In retrospect that makes sense. Should have figured that one out myself.

Being that you have a 4-door, you should be just fine with your rear shaft. If you choose to get a taller lift and/or longer shocks that will allow for more droop, a new 1310 shaft will get the job done for you. I personally would recommend a JE Reel or Coast as they are affordable and come with quality Neapco or Spicer u-joints.

I was leaning towards a 1310 (front) but didn't know what brand. Thanks for the insight.

This information is awesome!

 

[SteelBadger]

To be clear, a 285 will have an actual measurement of 33" and a tire that states 35" on the sidewall will have an actual measurement of about 33" as well.

I Knew about the 285, but I didn't know a 35 is actually "33". I had read they were not actually 35, but I was thinking "34" or there abouts.

 

[jkjurny]

Each brand is different. My Nitto Trail Grapplers measure 34.1 inches according to my tape measure. I hear Duratracs are closer to 33.

 

[SteelBadger]

My thanks once again, to all who offered advice. Cheers :beer:

 

[wayoflife]

I Knew about the 285, but I didn't know a 35 is actually "33". I had read they were not actually 35, but I was thinking "34" or there abouts.

NO tire measures up to what is listed on the sidewall and for whatever it's worth, you should always talk about lifts in regards to ADVERTISED tire size and NOT actual size. In other words, if I say you can run 35" tires with 2.5" of lift and some modifications, I am referring to a tire that says 35" on the sidewall.

Each brand is different. My Nitto Trail Grapplers measure 34.1 inches according to my tape measure. I hear Duratracs are closer to 33.

Yup, every brand is different but they're all pretty close to being about the same. Regarding your Nitto Trail Grapplers, try measuring from the ground to the corner of your tire where the sidewall turns to become the tread - NOT to the very top center of the tread. Or, you can measure from the center of your wheel to the ground and multiply that number by 2. This will give you a more accurate measurement and it's what you should be using when setting your speedometer. With a 35" Nitto, you should not be seeing 34".

 

[Wethy]

fwiw my 285/70/17 duratracs measure right at 32 1/4" measured from the ground to center X2. a 285/75(depending on the tire) should be a touch taller. my brother has a '14 ram 2500 cummins with 35/12.50/20 and they measure right at 34 measured the same way eddie mentioned