Rock Krawler Control Arms

They are sold as "mid arms" even though they are just 1" too long. There is no real benefit to this and it can cause your rear coils to bow enough to rub your track bar and up front, the driver side coil can bow enough to make contact with your sway bar arm. That and the fact that they have polyurethane bushing on the frame side which will squeak like a banshee if you don't keep them greased. I'm not too thrilled about the pressure adjustments on the axle end joints but otherwise, they'll work well enough.
 
"Work well enough" puts me off as a statement alone, but bowing the springs enough to rub doesn't sound the ticket. My other options were Clayton, JKS, or Synergy

I've run Clayton before and they are nice. Johnny Joints on the axle end and Clevite bushings on the frame. They are a good setup. I have also run JKS and they worked great too. I would also recommend Currie and Full Traction.
 
I've run Clayton before and they are nice. Johnny Joints on the axle end and Clevite bushings on the frame. They are a good setup. I have also run JKS and they worked great too. I would also recommend Currie and Full Traction.

Wait a second here... I thought you were told to answer every single question like this with "EVO is the best! If you ever run anything else your Jeep will flip and spontaneously combust and roll into a seminary killing a bunch of nuns and you will die in a fire and go to hell!" Haha!

Back on track now, sorry.

Levi

2013 CG JKU 6-speed
 
I run the RK lift and as mentioned above the springs did rub on the track bar. I made some adjustments and for the most part everything works great. I haven't had any issues with the front only the rear.
 
Rock Krawler arms are solid steal (and high quality) but i will agree that I'm not crazy about the frame side bushings but i still like mine. If you want serious craftsmanship and quality buy rough country. :cheesy
 
Does anybody have any good or bad words/experiences to say about Rock Krawler JK control arms? Thing about getting a set of lower high clearance for the front and rear.

i had a bad experience with them. lets just say i wasted my money on all 8 arms. not going into the whole story but i ended up modifying them to make them work on my 2 door, then took them off. i went with what i shold have originally and got the evo front lowers and synergy rear uppers. kept stock front uppers and rear lowers.
 
i had a bad experience with them. lets just say i wasted my money on all 8 arms. not going into the whole story but i ended up modifying them to make them work on my 2 door, then took them off. i went with what i shold have originally and got the evo front lowers and synergy rear uppers. kept stock front uppers and rear lowers.

Any reason for the different brands the second time around? Evo front and synergy rear. I was looking at the synergy front lowers. Just wondering if anyone has any advice on them. I just want to dump my aev brackets and fix my castor correctly. I just don't want to go thru what you did with the RK arms.
 
My RK mid arm lift works no spring rub on track bars going on, but have the squeak you speak of !! Now where is that spray lube

sj
 
I have their front lower standard short arms and have no complaints. They are more than enough to get me by for a few years and dirt cheap compared to other arms. When I upgrade to a long arm kit, I'll be going with johnny joints though.
 
Any reason for the different brands the second time around? Evo front and synergy rear. I was looking at the synergy front lowers. Just wondering if anyone has any advice on them. I just want to dump my aev brackets and fix my castor correctly. I just don't want to go thru what you did with the RK arms.

Synergy arms are half decent. And by half decent I mean there is a Factory bushing on the axle side and Johnny joint on frame side. They use a pinch bolt instead of a jamb nut. That about sums them up. Nothing really to rave about.
 
I've run Clayton before and they are nice. Johnny Joints on the axle end and Clevite bushings on the frame. They are a good setup. I have also run JKS and they worked great too. I would also recommend Currie and Full Traction.

Clevites are nice and cheap to replace, but they are also a big pain in the ass to replace and they will need replaced. I would bet most home mechanics couldn't replace them.

Johnny joints on the other hand are a breeze with the $100 tool from currie. Not to mention they take 100x the beating a clevite will.
 
Any reason for the different brands the second time around? Evo front and synergy rear. I was looking at the synergy front lowers. Just wondering if anyone has any advice on them. I just want to dump my aev brackets and fix my castor correctly. I just don't want to go thru what you did with the RK arms.

went with Evo becuase of the quality. went with synergy for the rear uppers cause i didnt want to spend the money on curries but i knew they used a johnny joint on the axle side. possibly at somepoint down the line i will switch out the busing side of the synergy arm (if i can) for a JJ.
 
Sorry Rock Krawler, but it looks like you haven't got it quite right with you control arms yet. Think I'm going to go with the Claytons or Curries.

Thanks for the quick input people.

My long arm conversion won't be for a long time yet, need to get a 14 bolt and 60 built first.

Sent from my SM-G900V using WAYALIFE mobile app

I've run Clayton over 80k miles now and they have worked great - uppers and lowers all around, I've had to replace 2 of the currie bushings in 2013 and that's because I never greased them since I installed them in late 2010.

There's not a lot of room for grease but Clayton did recommend at least to check them once a year. I started using Green Grease and it's held up so much better than the lucas I used in the beginning.

Taking apart the johnny joints with the tool is easy to do.
 
Fwiw ... It's only the rear arms that are too long. RK does have a short rear lower (max travel kit) but why install a adjustable arm only adjusts a small amount more then stock? There's no point.
Rock Krawler WILL cut arms to any length you want. I havnt decided yet, but might go with a shortened set of RK rear lowers with currie uppers. I just hate f****king jam nuts and try to avoid them if possible.
 
I really thought they were up to 3. Not really a fan of rk. So I don't keep up with them.
 
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