My rear Dana 44 keeps failing...

computeruser6

computeruser6

New member
I haven't gotten around to starting a build thread yet, but I wanted some opinions on what's going on with my rear axle and future plans. I had the lift, wheels/tires, front axle housing, and many other things replaced at around 10,000 miles. About 24,000 miles later I replaced the carrier and pinion bearings because the pinion bearing had significant play and was causing gear oil to leak. The pinion bearing was pitted, as if it was not getting lubricated and overheated. During my discussion with Off-Road Warehouse I told them that I used Royal Purple gear oil. The manager stated that they had seen several axles suffer the same fate that used Royal Purple and would not warranty their work if that oil was used again. Shortly afterwards, the passenger side rear wheel bearings seized. Enough heat was generated to burn my finger when I touched the hub flange and caused the axle seal to fail. When the shaft was pulled the rollers just kind of fell out.
A few weeks later I started hearing a low, but sharp metallic noise from something in my rear-end. I could only hear the noise when the Jeep hadn't been driven for a while. I thought it might have been some sort of brake problem at first, but that led nowhere. A few days ago I pulled the fill plug off to check fluid level, noticed a bunch of metallic shavings on a non-magnetic plug and didn't think about what that might mean until the next day. So I then pulled the drain plug and a shard of metal and a rather large amount of metal particles came out. I pulled the diff cover and noticed no more shards. The gear teeth I could see were fine, but I haven't gotten around to pulling the carrier yet. The Jeep drives normally, doesn't seem to be skipping any teeth. The shard seems like it's from a retaining ring or some other part that's not a gear tooth, though I don't know. When I used the lockers two weeks ago the front disengaged in a few seconds while the rear took almost a whole minute. I'm not interested in throwing any more money at my rear axle. Anyone have similar good fortune as myself or any guidance/suggestions?
I'm buying a Dynatrac semi-float Trail 60 (4.56 gears, ARB, stock width, 5x5.5 wheel pattern, 1350 input yoke) and am dumping the current rear axle. I wanted one anyway, I just didn't want things to go down like this. My front has been amazingly trouble free at least. I'll also be re-gearing the front axle and throwing some Spyntec hubs at it. Any criticism or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Sucks that it keeps failing but congrats on the new trail 60!

I wish I had any sort of knowledge as to why it would be doing this. The only thing I can think of is maybe not enough gear oil in the housing and that's why stuff is overheating.
 
Do you have a two or four door? How long ago did you swap out the Teraflex coils for the 3 inch plush rides? When you did this did you adjust your rear pinion angle? The other question I have is why are you going with 4.56 gears? I have done some research and the 4.56 gears seem to be an odd size and cost a $100 more than going with 4.88 or 5.13's. When I upgrade my front axle I will go with what will work for 37's as this will probably be the biggest tire I will run.

R/
Will
 
A person in the industry that I know who, over they years has worked for Eaton, Dynatrac and now ARB, recommends AGAINST using synthetic gear oil. In the case of ARB, the friction modifier in the synth oil will damage the locker o-ring and in the case of Royal Purple, was told that they've found it to retain too much heat. While I used to use synth gear oil all the time, I now ONLY run dino as it's a lot cheaper, makes it easier on the wallet to do more frequent fluid changes and, because of hearing things like this and what has happened to you.

The metal piece that you found could be from the dog clutch or maybe the spider gears. This is assuming that it's not from your pinion.

As mentioned, I personally would opt for a set of 4.88 gears over 4.56.
 
wayoflife said:
A person in the industry that I know who, over they years has worked for Eaton, Dynatrac and now ARB, recommends AGAINST using synthetic gear oil. In the case of ARB, the friction modifier in the synth oil will damage the locker o-ring and in the case of Royal Purple, was told that they've found it to retain too much heat. While I used to use synth gear oil all the time, I now ONLY run dino as it's a lot cheaper, makes it easier on the wallet to do more frequent fluid changes and, because of hearing things like this and what has happened to you.

The metal piece that you found could be from the dog clutch or maybe the spider gears. This is assuming that it's not from your pinion.

As mentioned, I personally would opt for a set of 4.88 gears over 4.56.
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That's the pits. I just swapped a pair of built rubi axles into my 2010 JKU sport and put Royal Purple gear oil in them. It's winter here now so the heat retention shouldn't be an issue for a while, but do you think I should change it out?
 
Clark Collins said:
That's the pits. I just swapped a pair of built rubi axles into my 2010 JKU sport and put Royal Purple gear oil in them. It's winter here now so the heat retention shouldn't be an issue for a while, but do you think I should change it out?
Click to expand...

I think you should be fine for a while.
 
Another thing I would do is spend another 1k and get the semi float prorock 60. It's a lot better axle and doesn't cost that much more. You get a beefier housing and more ground clearence.
 
2013rubirick said:
Another thing I would do is spend another 1k and get the semi float prorock 60. It's a lot better axle and doesn't cost that much more. You get a beefier housing and more ground clearence.
Click to expand...

Definitely what I would do and have done of course but, the down side to that is that they are a lot wider and come in a 5x5.5 bolt pattern. If one doesn't want to address the front axle to match, I would still recommend a Trail 60 as you can get it in a factory width and with a 5x5 bolt pattern. You can even order one with a ProRock diff :yup:
 
wayoflife said:
Definitely what I would do and have done of course but, the down side to that is that they are a lot wider and come in a 5x5.5 bolt pattern. If one doesn't want to address the front axle to match, I would still recommend a Trail 60 as you can get it in a factory width and with a 5x5 bolt pattern. You can even order one with a ProRock diff :yup:
Click to expand...

I have a semi-float prorock 60 that is stock width and 5x5. Ordered it from Northridge.
 
2013rubirick said:
I have a semi-float prorock 60 that is stock width and 5x5. Ordered it from Northridge.
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10-4. That's essentially what I was describing but I suppose, at that point, it should just be called a ProRock 60. :crazyeyes:

Back in the day, a ProRock 60 only came as a full width axle with 5x5.5 bolt pattern.
 
O OK. I no when I ordered my axle I had the option between the pr60 housing or the trail60 housing and it was only $1100 difference.
 
Canvas JK said:
Do you have a two or four door? How long ago did you swap out the Teraflex coils for the 3 inch plush rides? When you did this did you adjust your rear pinion angle?
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Two-door, the bearing failures occured prior to the coil swap, I did have another alignment done afterwards.

CrazyLarry said:
What weight oil did you use and was it synthetic? Also inspect your housing and make sure it isn't bent
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75W-140 Royal Purple full synthetic until the pinion bearing failed (front axle didn't see Royal Purple for long), alignment readings indicate that the housing is fine.

2013rubirick said:
Another thing I would do is spend another 1k and get the semi float prorock 60. It's a lot better axle and doesn't cost that much more. You get a beefier housing and more ground clearence.
Click to expand...

I didn't expect to be changing out my rear axle so soon, so the money does make a difference to me.

wayoflife said:
Definitely what I would do and have done of course but, the down side to that is that they are a lot wider and come in a 5x5.5 bolt pattern. If one doesn't want to address the front axle to match, I would still recommend a Trail 60 as you can get it in a factory width and with a 5x5 bolt pattern. You can even order one with a ProRock diff :yup:
Click to expand...

I'm not to worried about keeping the 5x5 pattern as I'm getting the Spyntec front hubs, I am trying to keep my axles the same width. I've been sending e-mails back and forth with Dan Seldon and he indicated that only the Trail 60 came in stock width.

wayoflife said:
A person in the industry that I know who, over they years has worked for Eaton, Dynatrac and now ARB, recommends AGAINST using synthetic gear oil. In the case of ARB, the friction modifier in the synth oil will damage the locker o-ring and in the case of Royal Purple, was told that they've found it to retain too much heat. While I used to use synth gear oil all the time, I now ONLY run dino as it's a lot cheaper, makes it easier on the wallet to do more frequent fluid changes and, because of hearing things like this and what has happened to you.

The metal piece that you found could be from the dog clutch or maybe the spider gears. This is assuming that it's not from your pinion.

As mentioned, I personally would opt for a set of 4.88 gears over 4.56.
Click to expand...

Canvas JK said:
I have is why are you going with 4.56 gears? I have done some research and the 4.56 gears seem to be an odd size and cost a $100 more than going with 4.88 or 5.13's. When I upgrade my front axle I will go with what will work for 37's as this will probably be the biggest tire I will run.

R/
Will
Click to expand...

Sucks to find out the hard way about gear oil. At least my front axle didn't experience Royal Purple for long. $15 for a gallon jug of the cheap stuff at O-Reilly's is way better than $20 a quart that Royal Purple cost me. My impetus for going for 4.56 gears is for the strentgh of my front pinion. The tooth count for a Dana 44 4.56 ratio is 41/9 and 4.88 is 39/8, I think. I've ordered the axle already but I don't think Dynatrac will get to making me one for a few weeks. At what point would you be worried about the strength of the gears? What have been the lead times for those of you that ordered Dynatrac axles? Thanks for all of the advice.
 
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They definitely make a pr60 semi float in stock width because I have one. They don't make a full float 60 in stock width though only full.
 
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