Leak after new driveshaft install

Melosh (tennis pro)

Melosh (tennis pro)

New member
Earlier today I installed an Adams rear driveshaft on my 2dr. The install went well (it was my first time) and I took it for about a 30 mile drive after. I noticed a slight vibration (seemed to be the worst between 20-40 mph).

I wasn't too concerned, I assumed it was because of my pinion angle. To fix this issue, when I got home I installed some rock krawler rear uppers (I'd purchased them earlier bc of advice I'd gotten up here).

I set them to the lengths that were in the instructions (17 9/16"). I used a floor jack underneath the pinion in order to adjust it a little so I could get the new arms installed.

After installing the arms, I went on a quick test drive. I probably drove less than 5 miles. I could definitely hear and feel a stronger vibration and it seemed to be worse when I took my foot off the gas, before hitting the brakes...kinda, while it was coasting...and it happened pretty much the entire drive.

When I got home I noticed this (see pics).

I'm wondering if there's something I could've done while installing the arms to "break something"? Or I'm thinking that maybe I didn't tighten the rear pinion nut down enough when doing the ds install?

Sorry this question is so long, just trying to give the experts all the information. Any thoughts/opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Thx

IMG_2104.jpgIMG_2105.jpgIMG_2110.jpg


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Did you put the little steel cover that was on the old flange onto the new one? It doesn't look like it's there now. That keeps a lot of crap out of the pinion bearings and seals. I know I had to use a puller and had to be careful putting it onto the new flange. Secondly did you use silicone on the splines of the new flange?

If your getting vibration still you need to lengthen those arms out more than the instructions say. The instructions typically don't account for needing to point your pinion straight at your t case die to the double cardan over the rzeppa style joint from stock
 
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jkrichard said:
Did you put the little steel cover that was on the old flange onto the new one? It doesn't look like it's there now. That keeps a lot of crap out of the pinion bearings and seals. I know I had to use a puller and had to be careful putting it onto the new flange. Secondly did you use silicone on the splines of the new flange?

If your getting vibration still you need to lengthen those arms out more than the instructions say. The instructions typically don't account for needing to point your pinion straight at your t case die to the double cardan over the rzeppa style joint from stock
Click to expand...

I followed the instructions on the Adams website. They have pictures with the install instructions. Not sure what steel cover you are talking about?

Hope I didn't leave out a step, but I don't think I did. I'll look through the install instructions again. I did put silicon on the pinion nut and on the nut used to secure the yoke on the transfer case side.



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I'll see if I can find the cover from the tcase that wasn't re used, the silicone should be applied to the splines not just the nut.
 
Okay so use your imagination a little because this is the t case side and not the pinion side, but they look similar enough to explain.

2017-04-06+03.23.19.jpg

2017-04-06+03.24.05.jpg

The axle side if left without the cover will let all sorts of crap into the pinion bearings and seal.
 
jkrichard said:
Okay so use your imagination a little because this is the t case side and not the pinion side, but they look similar enough to explain.

View attachment 251983

View attachment 251984

The axle side if left without the cover will let all sorts of crap into the pinion bearings and seal.
Click to expand...
That shield is worthless and doesn't need to be reinstalled. If anything it traps more dirt and crap behind it.
Melosh (tennis pro) said:
Earlier today I installed an Adams rear driveshaft on my 2dr. The install went well (it was my first time) and I took it for about a 30 mile drive after. I noticed a slight vibration (seemed to be the worst between 20-40 mph).

I wasn't too concerned, I assumed it was because of my pinion angle. To fix this issue, when I got home I installed some rock krawler rear uppers (I'd purchased them earlier bc of advice I'd gotten up here).

I set them to the lengths that were in the instructions (17 9/16"). I used a floor jack underneath the pinion in order to adjust it a little so I could get the new arms installed.

After installing the arms, I went on a quick test drive. I probably drove less than 5 miles. I could definitely hear and feel a stronger vibration and it seemed to be worse when I took my foot off the gas, before hitting the brakes...kinda, while it was coasting...and it happened pretty much the entire drive.

When I got home I noticed this (see pics).

I'm wondering if there's something I could've done while installing the arms to "break something"? Or I'm thinking that maybe I didn't tighten the rear pinion nut down enough when doing the ds install?

Sorry this question is so long, just trying to give the experts all the information. Any thoughts/opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Thx

View attachment 251979View attachment 251980View attachment 251981


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Click to expand...
From the looks of things you didn't get the pinion nut right enough. That nut requires a lot of torque to get it tight
 
Did you see if the nut fit completely down into the bottom of the new yoke? Someone lately had a nut and washer that wouldn't fit down in there


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As others have said, double check the nut. You may have to rent/buy/build a yoke holder to really hold the yoke while you torque the shit out of that nut.
 
Like others have said. Sounds to me that you didn't get the nut tight enough. The vibration you are feeling is due to your ring and pinion not meshing properly. You will destroy your gears if it's not taken care of. The nut controls preload on your Pinion bearings. There is a crush sleeve in there that will be damaged if you over torque it, so be careful.

Did you install with an impact or use a ratchet? If you are doing it by hand you will definitely need a yoke holder.

And on the dust shield, a agree with cozdude. I think it holds more crap against the seal than it keeps out.


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Melosh (tennis pro) said:
Earlier today I installed an Adams rear driveshaft on my 2dr. The install went well (it was my first time) and I took it for about a 30 mile drive after. I noticed a slight vibration (seemed to be the worst between 20-40 mph).

I wasn't too concerned, I assumed it was because of my pinion angle. To fix this issue, when I got home I installed some rock krawler rear uppers (I'd purchased them earlier bc of advice I'd gotten up here).

I set them to the lengths that were in the instructions (17 9/16"). I used a floor jack underneath the pinion in order to adjust it a little so I could get the new arms installed.

After installing the arms, I went on a quick test drive. I probably drove less than 5 miles. I could definitely hear and feel a stronger vibration and it seemed to be worse when I took my foot off the gas, before hitting the brakes...kinda, while it was coasting...and it happened pretty much the entire drive.

When I got home I noticed this (see pics).

I'm wondering if there's something I could've done while installing the arms to "break something"? Or I'm thinking that maybe I didn't tighten the rear pinion nut down enough when doing the ds install?

Sorry this question is so long, just trying to give the experts all the information. Any thoughts/opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Thx

View attachment 251979View attachment 251980View attachment 251981


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Click to expand...
Looks like an issue with the seal and or crush sleeve. I'd suggest getting a new seal and crush sleeve and reinstalling the yoke. It's easy to damage the seal while installing the yoke. Make sure you tighten to 200 a 220 ft lbs and then around 25 - 29 in lbs while turning yoke. Be careful when you tap seal on! If you left the old seal and crush sleeve on and simply installed the new yoke or just the new driveshaft with old yoke you may have damaged seal with impact wrench as the seal doesn't like the hammering action when tightening all the way down.


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Basscat said:
Looks like an issue with the seal and or crush sleeve. I'd suggest getting a new seal and crush sleeve and reinstalling the yoke. It's easy to damage the seal while installing the yoke. Make sure you tighten to 200 a 220 ft lbs and then around 25 - 29 in lbs while turning yoke. Be careful when you tap seal on! If you left the old seal and crush sleeve on and simply installed the new yoke or just the new driveshaft with old yoke you may have damaged seal with impact wrench as the seal doesn't like the hammering action when tightening all the way down.


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Click to expand...

The front axle on mine had that much rotational torque but the rear didn't but I just torqued mine back to where they were before I took it apart, was in the teens of inch pounds for some reason


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JKbrick said:
The front axle on mine had that much rotational torque but the rear didn't but I just torqued mine back to where they were before I took it apart, was in the teens of inch pounds for some reason


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Click to expand...

Thx everyone for all the replies. In the Adams instructions they specifically warn about crushing the crush sleeve if over torqued. The transfer case side I torqued to 160.

I may not have torqued it enough, I'm just wondering why the vibrations seems to get worse after the control arm install.



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Melosh (tennis pro) said:
Thx everyone for all the replies. In the Adams instructions they specifically warn about crushing the crush sleeve if over torqued. The transfer case side I torqued to 160.

I may not have torqued it enough, I'm just wondering why the vibrations seems to get worse after the control arm install.



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Click to expand...

I would bet you didn't. If I remember correctly, I torqued mine to 120 and then some more to get it right.


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To do it properly you need to take inch pound measurements of rotational force prior to removing the old yoke. When reinstalling you are supposed to torque it so there are 2 in lb more than what you began with. I believe this falls into the 18-25 range. The recommended pinion nut torque starting point is 155 ft lbs I believe. Someone correct me if I am wrong. If you watch Eddies video of the new XD60 this is what the tech is doing while installing the gears when he is spinning the pinion with the torque wrench on it. Most will say the rule of thumb is torque to 165lbs which will work 90% of the time which is what I did and had no issues. On the Rubicon last year after the rear DS failure Eddie and Tony torqued it to 150 (the highest the wrench went) and a little extra umph as they put it...haha. That worked too.
 
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jesse3638 said:
To do it properly you need to take inch pound measurements of rotational force prior to removing the old yoke. When reinstalling you are supposed to torque it so there are 2 in lb more than what you began with. I believe this falls into the 18-25 range. The recommended pinion nut torque starting point is 155 ft lbs I believe. Someone correct me if I am wrong. If you watch Eddies video of the new XD60 this is what the tech is doing while installing the gears when he is spinning the pinion with the torque wrench on it. Most will say the rule of thumb is torque to 165lbs which will work 90% of the time which is what I did and had no issues. On the Rubicon last year after the rear DS failure Eddie and Tony torqued it to 150 (the highest the wrench went) and a little extra umph as they put it...haha. That worked too.
Click to expand...

at this point I'm going to try to tighten down the nut


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