Jeep JK Wrangler Unit Bearing Replacement Write-Up

[Mybadjk]

Okay, so reading through the previous comments I️ want the one ending with 482 part number. The one I️ ordered has the 242 part number. My abs kicks in when breaking and turning still like it did before.

So I️ have a question. With t being the speed sensor being the problem that it’s not reading. Has anyone take. Their old speed sensor and see if it works? Or does it have to do with the hub?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

 

[wayoflife]

Okay, so reading through the previous comments I️ want the one ending with 482 part number. The one I️ ordered has the 242 part number. My abs kicks in when breaking and turning still like it did before.

So I️ have a question. With t being the speed sensor being the problem that it’s not reading. Has anyone take. Their old speed sensor and see if it works? Or does it have to do with the hub?

If you're getting your ABS to kick in when braking, I would double check your steering wheel position as it might be slightly off and causing your computer to think you're in a slide. That is the most common culprit. That being said, the speed sensor reads a tone ring, basically, reads a binary ON and OFF signal. If you have too much play in your unit bearing, it could cause the the speed sensor to read incorrectly but that doesn't typically cause the ABS to kick in. If anything, it causes your lights to come on and turn everything off.

 

[Mybadjk]

If you're getting your ABS to kick in when braking, I would double check your steering wheel position as it might be slightly off and causing your computer to think you're in a slide. That is the most common culprit. That being said, the speed sensor reads a tone ring, basically, reads a binary ON and OFF signal. If you have too much play in your unit bearing, it could cause the the speed sensor to read incorrectly but that doesn't typically cause the ABS to kick in. If anything, it causes your lights to come on and turn everything off.

So far my wheel is straight (that I️ can tell while driving straight). I️ need to redo my alignment. Waiting on new tie rod to get done being powdercoated to do that. But I’ve notice the wheel does seemed more angled when turning.

Have another question. What would cause the steering wheel to kind of jump? Like I’ll be driving down the road and I️ hit a bump the wheel won’t be fully centered. But if I️ swerve the steering wheel back and forth it’ll straighten out?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

 

[wayoflife]

So far my wheel is straight (that I️ can tell while driving straight). I️ need to redo my alignment. Waiting on new tie rod to get done being powdercoated to do that. But I’ve notice the wheel does seemed more angled when turning.

A wheel that looks more angled out typically means you're tie-rod is toe OUT. I would double check this and correct as needed.

Have another question. What would cause the steering wheel to kind of jump? Like I’ll be driving down the road and I️ hit a bump the wheel won’t be fully centered. But if I️ swerve the steering wheel back and forth it’ll straighten out?

Sounds to me like you might have a loose steering component like a track bar bolt. The hit causes the track bar to shift leaving your steering off center. Turning the wheel back and forth causes it to recenter. OR, you could have a dent in your steering stabilizer and right at a point where the valve is getting stuck on it. I've had this happen to me before.

 

[WJCO]

So far my wheel is straight (that I️ can tell while driving straight). I️ need to redo my alignment. Waiting on new tie rod to get done being powdercoated to do that. But I’ve notice the wheel does seemed more angled when turning.

Have another question. What would cause the steering wheel to kind of jump? Like I’ll be driving down the road and I️ hit a bump the wheel won’t be fully centered. But if I️ swerve the steering wheel back and forth it’ll straighten out?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

You mean it stays off center while the vehicle is still going straight? And this happens after you hit a bump?

 

[Mybadjk]

A wheel that looks more angled out typically means you're tie-rod is toe OUT. I would double check this and correct as needed.



Sounds to me like you might have a loose steering component like a track bar bolt. The hit causes the track bar to shift leaving your steering off center. Turning the wheel back and forth causes it to recenter. OR, you could have a dent in your steering stabilizer and right at a point where the valve is getting stuck on it. I've had this happen to me before.

I’ll have to check it out and go through the front end. Thanks Eddie!


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

 

[Mybadjk]

You mean it stays off center while the vehicle is still going straight? And this happens after you hit a bump?

Yes. It’ll straighten out if I️ move my steering wheels couple inches back and forth real quick.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

 

[desertrunner]

Okay, so reading through the previous comments I️ want the one ending with 482 part number. The one I️ ordered has the 242 part number. My abs kicks in when breaking and turning still like it did before.

So I️ have a question. With t being the speed sensor being the problem that it’s not reading. Has anyone take. Their old speed sensor and see if it works? Or does it have to do with the hub?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

I tried to use the old censor from my 12' in a set of 242s and they were different and would not fit.



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using WAYALIFE mobile app

 

[VeruGE*144]

Okay, so reading through the previous comments I️ want the one ending with 482 part number. The one I️ ordered has the 242 part number. My abs kicks in when breaking and turning still like it did before.

So I️ have a question. With t being the speed sensor being the problem that it’s not reading. Has anyone take. Their old speed sensor and see if it works? Or does it have to do with the hub?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

Did you ever figure out the ABS randomly kicking in issue? Mine has been doing it as well for last month or two. I just replaced the unit bearings and it’s still doing it. Not too bad but it’s getting really annoying.

Stupid me just did the brakes over the weekend and I had everything apart in the rear. I did notice the ‘tone rings’ were pretty dirty but somehow I forgot to wire brush the shit out of them. After doing some research it makes sense that dirty tone rings can mess with the speed sensors.

I will be pulling all my shit off again to give those a good clean to see if that fixes it.



Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

 

[JKbrick]

Did you ever figure out the ABS randomly kicking in issue? Mine has been doing it as well for last month or two. I just replaced the unit bearings and it’s still doing it. Not too bad but it’s getting really annoying.

Stupid me just did the brakes over the weekend and I had everything apart in the rear. I did notice the ‘tone rings’ were pretty dirty but somehow I forgot to wire brush the shit out of them. After doing some research it makes sense that dirty tone rings can mess with the speed sensors.
View attachment 284872
I will be pulling all my shit off again to give those a good clean to see if that fixes it.



Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

Your wife will be like now what in the hell are you doing to it!


Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE mobile app

 

[VeruGE*144]

Your wife will be like now what in the hell are you doing to it!


Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE mobile app

I know right.... actually she’s getting pissed of as well cuz of that’s stupid abs issue since she drives it everyday to school.
It only happens at low speeds when turning with applied brake. I also read that re flashing the computer might solve that issue as well, I’ll give that a shot first and re center the steering wheel again, it’s a cunt hair off still but it’s within the range according to AEV programmer. I have to measure the tires again to input the correct size, I only did it once while first installed, they probably a little worn out by now. Hopefully that will fix it


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

 

[JeepDrum]

I'm going to be replacing my ball joints and hubs soon. This was a really big help!
I have a question though. How come people say different things for the size of the axle nut? Do the D30 and D44 have different size nuts? I have read 35mm and 36mm. I was planning to order a Tekton socket from Amazon and I want to be sure it's the right size. I have a Dana 30 in the front.

 

[WJCO]

How come people say different things for the size of the axle nut? Do the D30 and D44 have different size nuts? I have read 35mm and 36mm. I was planning to order a Tekton socket from Amazon and I want to be sure it's the right size. I have a Dana 30 in the front.

D30 and D44 have the same axle nut. Without measuring the actual nut, I am confident that a 36mm socket works just find and have used one for that repair many times.

 

[VeruGE*144]

I'm going to be replacing my ball joints and hubs soon. This was a really big help!
I have a question though. How come people say different things for the size of the axle nut? Do the D30 and D44 have different size nuts? I have read 35mm and 36mm. I was planning to order a Tekton socket from Amazon and I want to be sure it's the right size. I have a Dana 30 in the front.

Thats the socket I used I believe. Not a 100% sure but I’d say it’s a 36mm.

 

[JeepDrum]

D30 and D44 have the same axle nut. Without measuring the actual nut, I am confident that a 36mm socket works just find and have used one for that repair many times.

Awesome, thanks for clarifying. I'll put a 36mm on order then.

One more question for everyone. I'm going to be renting a ball joint press from Advance Auto. Should I look into renting some sort of puller to separate the hub from the axle shaft while I'm at it? My JK sees salt in the winter so I'm worried everything might be stuck together pretty good.

 

[WJCO]

Awesome, thanks for clarifying. I'll put a 36mm on order then.

One more question for everyone. I'm going to be renting a ball joint press from Advance Auto. Should I look into renting some sort of puller to separate the hub from the axle shaft while I'm at it? My JK sees salt in the winter so I'm worried everything might be stuck together pretty good.

Get a slide hammer for sure. Also soak everything in PB Blaster the night before.

 

[VeruGE*144]

Awesome, thanks for clarifying. I'll put a 36mm on order then.

One more question for everyone. I'm going to be renting a ball joint press from Advance Auto. Should I look into renting some sort of puller to separate the hub from the axle shaft while I'm at it? My JK sees salt in the winter so I'm worried everything might be stuck together pretty good.

I Also used the set form Advance auto parts when I did my ball joints. Make sure you get this one and make sure you have all the pieces in there. You’ll need the slightly slanted adapter, it’s one of the ones I circled [emoji106]

 

[JeepDrum]

Thanks so much for the great information guys

 

[BLReck]

Excellent write-up and commentary. Thank you for that.

I replaced both wheel bearings on my 12 JKUR and things went together without issue. I also had new u-joints pressed in both front axle shafts while it was apart, replaced brake pads and complete brake fluid flush/bleed.

At start up, the ABS and TC light popped up and remained after d/c the battery briefly. Went for a short drive and all lights off so I'm feeling okay there.

The problem I'm having is a pretty noticeable pull to the left after installing the wheel bearing, etc. I'm not entirely sure how this item would impact my steering. Any ideas or suggestions?

 

[Clutch]

I’m changing my passenger side tomorrow. Hope that makes the click click click go away!


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app