Have I spun my diff housing?

So I’ve been dealing with a bad vibration in the rear I’ve had since the Shaver Lake run. Starting with the cheapest things first I had my wheels balanced, and they were “significantly out” according to Discount Tires. Had my drive shaft tested for balance and it was still perfect. Checked my rear axle shafts and they were bent. So bought and installed new rear chromoly axle shafts but that didn’t fix the problem either. Not a wasted effort since I needed to upgrade them anyways.

Turns out it’s the pinion angle. I never even considered that because of how stout the EVO longarms and brackets are. Measured it yesterday and the diff was pointing up and off by a whopping 5 degrees. I can’t imagine how that could happen since I’m not heavy on the throttle and have not hit the pinion or drive shaft on any rocks. I used the upper adjusters to lower it but had use up the entire allotment and i’m still 1.2 degrees off. Now I have to reset the adjusters back and extend the lower control arms to get it back to zero.

Have I spun the diff somehow? Why else would the pinion angle go off center so much? How can I check for this?
 
So I’ve been dealing with a bad vibration in the rear I’ve had since the Shaver Lake run. Starting with the cheapest things first I had my wheels balanced, and they were “significantly out” according to Discount Tires. Had my drive shaft tested for balance and it was still perfect. Checked my rear axle shafts and they were bent. So bought and installed new rear chromoly axle shafts but that didn’t fix the problem either. Not a wasted effort since I needed to upgrade them anyways.

Turns out it’s the pinion angle. I never even considered that because of how stout the EVO longarms and brackets are. Measured it yesterday and the diff was pointing up and off by a whopping 5 degrees. I can’t imagine how that could happen since I’m not heavy on the throttle and have not hit the pinion or drive shaft on any rocks. I used the upper adjusters to lower it but had use up the entire allotment and i’m still 1.2 degrees off. Now I have to reset the adjusters back and extend the lower control arms to get it back to zero.

Have I spun the diff somehow? Why else would the pinion angle go off center so much? How can I check for this?
I doubt you spun the housing but anything is possible. Crazy it went up 5°. It would have done this from day one after the build so something changed for sure.
 
I doubt you spun the housing but crazy it went up 5°. It would have done this from day one after the build so something changed.
It’s been absolutely perfect since the build though, and I mean perfect. This only happened since Shaver. Bars aren’t bent, brackets aren’t bent or cracked. If not a spun housing, then perhaps the adjusters got pushed inward? That doesn’t make sense either because i measured from the johnny joint to the tube and both sides were exactly the same length apart. IDK
 
That’s interesting, did the correction eliminate the vibration?
I didn’t have time last night to correct it 100%. It’s better now but still bad at highway speeds. When I redo the adjustments and get it to a zero degree difference I’m sure it will eliminate it entirely. Just not sure how it got off so bad in the first place.
 
I didn’t have time last night to correct it 100%. It’s better now but still bad at highway speeds. When I redo the adjustments and get it to a zero degree difference I’m sure it will eliminate it entirely. Just not sure how it got off so bad in the first place.
Yea I’m sure it will too. Any visual signs on the welds on the rear tube diff? Definitely odd, but might explain the issue. Probably time to upgrade to that semi float rear 60 tho.
 
Yea I’m sure it will too. Any visual signs on the welds on the rear tube diff? Definitely odd, but might explain the issue. Probably time to upgrade to that semi float rear 60 tho.
Haven’t checked for that yet, the thought just occurred to me on my way to work. Will be checking after work. Lol
 
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