Front Sway Bar Disconnect

Primo82

Primo82

Caught the Bug
I've done a few forum searches to see if the info I'd like to know was already stated. I didn't have any luck, apologies if this has come up before.

I purchased a 2017 Jeep JKU Sahara Winter Edition last fall. I have not done any major upgrades (lifts, new wheels/rims, etc.)

I'm new to wheeling. I plan on hitting up Redbird SRA this weekend. A jeep friend of mine mentioned that you can get a LOT better articulation by manually disconnecting the front sway bar.

Is this something I should do before I start wheeling? Or only when I think I'll need the additional articulation?

A poster in another forum stated that the stock articulation with a disconnected sway can cause damage to brake lines, coils, steering stabilizer, etc. Is this really of concern for a stock setup?

It sounds like the sway bar links need to be rotated till they are horizontal to the ground and zip tied so it doesn't damage anything correct?

I know the sway bar needs reconnected before I get back out on the roads...

Is there anything else a newbie needs to know about this process before they try it the first time? Thank you in advance for helping me correct my ignorance. Cheers!
 
jesse3638

jesse3638

Hooked
If you're completely stock you should have no issues with anything you mentioned. If you had a lift with new shocks you may need new brake lines or brake line drop bracket becasue you'll have more droop. It's best to unbolt them at the trail head while airing down or so. It's easy bit not so easy you'd you to stop on the trail to disconnect them. Make sure to pull them up as mentioned and zip tie them out of the way so they won't hot anything.

Sent from my 2PYB2 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Slimebones

Slimebones

Active Member
jesse3638 said:
If you're completely stock you should have no issues with anything you mentioned. If you had a lift with new shocks you may need new brake lines or brake line drop bracket becasue you'll have more droop. It's best to unbolt them at the trail head while airing down or so. It's easy bit not so easy you'd you to stop on the trail to disconnect them. Make sure to pull them up as mentioned and zip tie them out of the way so they won't hot anything.

Sent from my 2PYB2 using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...
Good advise here. It is very annoying to get stuck behind someone who all of a sudden realizes he needs to disconnect or air down with people waiting behind him/her on the trail. Do it ahead of time. Good trail etiquette..
 
Ddays

Ddays

Hooked
A sway bar disconnect is one of the best bangs for your buck out there. Get one that's a quick disconnect. JKS makes a nice one. Just don;t get one that you have to bolt & unbolt - they're a pain in the dick and you always lose a bolt/washer/nut when monkeying around with it. Practice doing it at home so you're comfortable with the process. LOL, nothing sucks more than doing something in front of people for the first time!

And don't listen to the jackass that said you'd screw up your Jeep - that's someone talking out of their ass because they saw it somewhere else on the internet. :rolleyes2:
 
S

soldier1217

New member
Curious about this too but for a 2019 JLU Sport S

Primo82 said:
I've done a few forum searches to see if the info I'd like to know was already stated. I didn't have any luck, apologies if this has come up before.

I purchased a 2017 Jeep JKU Sahara Winter Edition last fall. I have not done any major upgrades (lifts, new wheels/rims, etc.)

I'm new to wheeling. I plan on hitting up Redbird SRA this weekend. A jeep friend of mine mentioned that you can get a LOT better articulation by manually disconnecting the front sway bar.

Is this something I should do before I start wheeling? Or only when I think I'll need the additional articulation?

A poster in another forum stated that the stock articulation with a disconnected sway can cause damage to brake lines, coils, steering stabilizer, etc. Is this really of concern for a stock setup?

It sounds like the sway bar links need to be rotated till they are horizontal to the ground and zip tied so it doesn't damage anything correct?

I know the sway bar needs reconnected before I get back out on the roads...

Is there anything else a newbie needs to know about this process before they try it the first time? Thank you in advance for helping me correct my ignorance. Cheers!
Click to expand...

Mine will have a 2.5” lift soon but I’ve been curious about disconnects. Any suggestions?
 
Primo82

Primo82

Caught the Bug
Thanks to all of you for your feedback!

I've been looking at the JKS quick disconnects, it's going on my list of upgrades.

I had to rewire my winch controller last night, long story there... While I was wrenching on that I fiddled with the sway bar disconnects. Should be easy enough to do at the trail head.

Several of you have mentioned airing down at the trailhead as well. I have the KO2 LT265/70SR17. What is a good target PSI for wheeling on these? From reading/videos I don't think anything at Redbird SRA will be extreme. I don't foresee a bunch of rock crawling. I was thinking 20-25PSI. I won't have a compressor on me, I plan on limping back to Linton, IN to air up at a gas station.
 
TonyT

TonyT

Caught the Bug
Unless you're getting up and over big ruts or obstacles that you need the articulation, I wouldn't spend the money on disconnects. Sure, it helps a little letting you get all your flex, and the ride will be nicer not being slung from side to side, but theres some downsides to it too. You're gonna be that guy searching for a level place to park to connect/disconnect, banging away with a mallet getting them on and off, loosing a strap (or zip tie) and having a link drop down, etc.

Then, when you get tired of the disconnects, you're right back where you are looking for a better solution.

I'd just take it off all together and keep an eye out for a rubicon take-off, or the Currie Anti-Rock (or similar.) Both those options will end up costing you about the same unless you find a deal on a used one. Either way, I always try to upgrade with something I can adapt to future mods and plans. I used my Rubicon OEM sway bars on my jeep for 10years, and I still would be if the position of my axles allowed it.
 
Primo82

Primo82

Caught the Bug
TonyT said:
Unless you're getting up and over big ruts or obstacles that you need the articulation, I wouldn't spend the money on disconnects. Sure, it helps a little letting you get all your flex, and the ride will be nicer not being slung from side to side, but theres some downsides to it too. You're gonna be that guy searching for a level place to park to connect/disconnect, banging away with a mallet getting them on and off, loosing a strap (or zip tie) and having a link drop down, etc.

Then, when you get tired of the disconnects, you're right back where you are looking for a better solution.

I'd just take it off all together and keep an eye out for a rubicon take-off, or the Currie Anti-Rock (or similar.) Both those options will end up costing you about the same unless you find a deal on a used one. Either way, I always try to upgrade with something I can adapt to future mods and plans. I used my Rubicon OEM sway bars on my jeep for 10years, and I still would be if the position of my axles allowed it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. Are you saying look for a rubicon take-off with their auto disconnects? I'm assuming I can just add a switch to turn to engage/unengage them in a sahara? This is an interesting option. I'm looking to upgrade to the Alpine X209-WRA-OR at some point, so I assume I can control it through that interface.
 
Ddays

Ddays

Hooked
Save yourself the grief of trying to hook up the electronics. If you can find a Rubi takeoff, get yourself one of these EVO No Limits manual quick disconnects. It replaces the electric motor and all you have to do is turn the knob to disconnect or connect. The advantage of the manual is that you can disconnect whenever you want. WIth the electric version it automatically re-connects at 15 MPH or so. There is also an air operated version of this if you have a compressor.

http://www.evomfg.com/technical-docs/EVO-1087.pdf

EVO-1087-g2.jpg download.jpg
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
TonyT said:
Unless you're getting up and over big ruts or obstacles that you need the articulation, I wouldn't spend the money on disconnects. Sure, it helps a little letting you get all your flex, and the ride will be nicer not being slung from side to side, but theres some downsides to it too. You're gonna be that guy searching for a level place to park to connect/disconnect, banging away with a mallet getting them on and off, loosing a strap (or zip tie) and having a link drop down, etc.

Then, when you get tired of the disconnects, you're right back where you are looking for a better solution.

I'd just take it off all together and keep an eye out for a rubicon take-off, or the Currie Anti-Rock (or similar.) Both those options will end up costing you about the same unless you find a deal on a used one. Either way, I always try to upgrade with something I can adapt to future mods and plans. I used my Rubicon OEM sway bars on my jeep for 10years, and I still would be if the position of my axles allowed it.
Click to expand...

Sometimes I think I’ve seen the dumbest shit ever posted in the forum and then people like you come along and post shit like this.

OP, do not listen to this guy. At all. None of this is valuable information.

Do not just remove your sway bar. Sway bar disconnects are like $125. Antirock or Rubicon takeoff are both a lot more.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
Disconnects are affordable and work just fine. And while disconnected even on the easiest of trails, they help a ton with handling and articulation IMO. Don't remove your sway bar all together as suggested earlier, that's not wise.
 
USMC Wrangler

USMC Wrangler

New member
OverlanderJK said:
Sometimes I think I’ve seen the dumbest shit ever posted in the forum and then people like you come along and post shit like this.

OP, do not listen to this guy. At all. None of this is valuable information.

Do not just remove your sway bar. Sway bar disconnects are like $125. Antirock or Rubicon takeoff are both a lot more.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

WJCO said:
Disconnects are affordable and work just fine. And while disconnected even on the easiest of trails, they help a ton with handling and articulation IMO. Don't remove your sway bar all together as suggested earlier, that's not wise.
Click to expand...

These two nailed it. ^^^^^^


I first got my quick discos from JKS on a Leveling Kit and near stock tire size. Helps keep all four tires on the ground even over dirt trails. Relatively small investment for nice gains off pavement. I have driven on pavement disconnected. While doable, it is sketchy.

Oh, many people on here I trust have stated antirocks limit flex off-road and have broken frequently.

At one time I searched for a Rubi front take off. I decided the price and hassle of installing wasn’t worth it to me.


................................................................
2013 JKU Sport S, named Spider

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?26097-I-guess-it-s-the-quot-Super-Stocker-quot-build
 
Primo82

Primo82

Caught the Bug
OverlanderJK said:
Sometimes I think I’ve seen the dumbest shit ever posted in the forum and then people like you come along and post shit like this.

OP, do not listen to this guy. At all. None of this is valuable information.

Do not just remove your sway bar. Sway bar disconnects are like $125. Antirock or Rubicon takeoff are both a lot more.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

WJCO said:
Disconnects are affordable and work just fine. And while disconnected even on the easiest of trails, they help a ton with handling and articulation IMO. Don't remove your sway bar all together as suggested earlier, that's not wise.
Click to expand...

USMC Wrangler said:
These two nailed it. ^^^^^^


I first got my quick discos from JKS on a Leveling Kit and near stock tire size. Helps keep all four tires on the ground even over dirt trails. Relatively small investment for nice gains off pavement. I have driven on pavement disconnected. While doable, it is sketchy.

Oh, many people on here I trust have stated antirocks limit flex off-road and have broken frequently.

At one time I searched for a Rubi front take off. I decided the price and hassle of installing wasn’t worth it to me.


................................................................
2013 JKU Sport S, named Spider

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?26097-I-guess-it-s-the-quot-Super-Stocker-quot-build
Click to expand...


Thank you gentleman!
 
notnalc68

notnalc68

That dude from Mississippi
It isn’t that difficult to reconnect JKS Quicker Disconnects. They are affordable, well built, and get the job done. You’ll get more out of your Jeep, by being able to disconnect.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
TonyT

TonyT

Caught the Bug
Primo82 said:
Thanks for the advice. Are you saying look for a rubicon take-off with their auto disconnects? I'm assuming I can just add a switch to turn to engage/unengage them in a sahara? This is an interesting option. I'm looking to upgrade to the Alpine X209-WRA-OR at some point, so I assume I can control it through that interface.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't mess with trying to get the electronics hooked up if you find a Rubicon Sway Bar. Like DDdays posted the no limits manual switch is just fine.

In response to not running a sway bar at all. I agree its not the best idea on public roads at speed. Its my opinion that sway bar disconnects are a hassle, regardless of their price or what brand you go with.
 
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