Thanks for the input.
Along these same lines, I have a JKU Rubicon with 4.5" Rubicon Express long arm kit and am in the process of installing a PSC hydro assist system. I currently have 35s and am building it to go to 38s. Given your aversion to RockJocks, I now plan on a D60 Trail Rock Dynatrac rear with 4.88s (as per the charts for a 2012 auto). I also plan on using the re-geared stock front axle but beefing it up with sleeves, gussets, truss and RCV. Does this sound reasonable? I rock crawl hard and also use it for a daily driver.
Don't get me wrong but, rather than waste all your money on trying to beef up your front axle, you'd be much better served getting a Dynatrac ProRock 44 and just playing with your factory rear Dana 44 till it breaks or you can afford an upgrade. Certainly, your factory rear Dana 44 will hold up A LOT better and longer than a beefed up factory front end even with 38's.
Personally I would go 5.13's or even 5.38's on 38+ tires, even with the 3.6.
Charts be danged!!!
Agreed, a higher ratio is what I would go with as well - 5.13's for sure but the pinion on a 5.38 in a Dana 44 is way too small for my taste.
Why 38's? If your going big to "wheel hard" you're gonna need more then a front factory 44. 5.13's with 37's is best 5.38's is better but you'll run higher rpm on the freeway. There is a lot of information out there, and it sounds like you could use some time to read it before buying and wasting your money.
I was kind of wondering the same thing. 38's are an odd size that you have to pay more to get and are hard to find. Tough finding a spare to bum off of one of your buddies too or a quick replacement on the road. 37's are plenty big and way more practical but hey, that's just my opinion.
38 MTRs are just an inch bigger than 37s but 38s are 2" wider which may help in some circumstances.
Such as? :idontknow:
A D60 front is a huge investment. Should I go 37 instead?
You're right, it really is and I can't really say it'd be worth getting just to run 38's. This is of course coming from a guy who runs a JK with 40's and a ProRock 60 up front and a ProRock 80 in the rear AND who also has a JK running 37's with a ProRock 44 up front and ProRock 60 full floater in the rear. For the most part, 37's are all that you really need and there are a lot of benefits to running a ProRock 44 such as it being lighter weight, provides more ground clearance and has much greater turning radius over a 60.