t8er
New member
haha. ok that makes a whole lot of sense. it sounded like he ran JKX that way and I was impressed.
Dynatrac vs G2 vs Terflex axles
- Thread starter t8er
- Start date
haha. ok that makes a whole lot of sense. it sounded like he ran JKX that way and I was impressed.
Rancho
Caught the Bug
I totally agree, I pushed this on and I was on 38's.
Anyone on 37's this should be a serious upgrade tht moves to the top of your list.
On a baby, and I meant baby trail wasn't paying attention and SNAP.
Now that I have assist, smooth as butter.
:beer:
Anyone on 37's this should be a serious upgrade tht moves to the top of your list.
On a baby, and I meant baby trail wasn't paying attention and SNAP.
Now that I have assist, smooth as butter.
:beer:
CRZRTX
New member
Thanks for the input.
Along these same lines, I have a JKU Rubicon with 4.5" Rubicon Express long arm kit and am in the process of installing a PSC hydro assist system. I currently have 35s and am building it to go to 38s. Given your aversion to RockJocks, I now plan on a D60 Trail Rock Dynatrac rear with 4.88s (as per the charts for a 2012 auto). I also plan on using the re-geared stock front axle but beefing it up with sleeves, gussets, truss and RCV. Does this sound reasonable? I rock crawl hard and also use it for a daily driver.
Along these same lines, I have a JKU Rubicon with 4.5" Rubicon Express long arm kit and am in the process of installing a PSC hydro assist system. I currently have 35s and am building it to go to 38s. Given your aversion to RockJocks, I now plan on a D60 Trail Rock Dynatrac rear with 4.88s (as per the charts for a 2012 auto). I also plan on using the re-geared stock front axle but beefing it up with sleeves, gussets, truss and RCV. Does this sound reasonable? I rock crawl hard and also use it for a daily driver.
Rancho
Caught the Bug
Personally I would go 5.13's or even 5.38's on 38+ tires, even with the 3.6.
Charts be danged!!!
Charts be danged!!!
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
Why 38's? If your going big to "wheel hard" you're gonna need more then a front factory 44. 5.13's with 37's is best 5.38's is better but you'll run higher rpm on the freeway. There is a lot of information out there, and it sounds like you could use some time to read it before buying and wasting your money.
CRZRTX
New member
38 MTRs are just an inch bigger than 37s but 38s are 2" wider which may help in some circumstances. A D60 front is a huge investment. Should I go 37 instead?
Rancho
Caught the Bug
Picture for scale
Left 37" BFG Krawler (runs supposedly a true 37")
Right 38" Falken MT competition tire (runs taller than 38, 38.5")
Personally I would run a 37 and a ProRock all day long.
Left 37" BFG Krawler (runs supposedly a true 37")
Right 38" Falken MT competition tire (runs taller than 38, 38.5")
Personally I would run a 37 and a ProRock all day long.
GR8WHITE
New member
heres my rig with 38 mtr (so you can see the size)
I wish I had a better cleaner pic on flat ground but its at home and blown apart do to a roll cage.
HILLZ
Member
When off roading its not the width but the length of the tyres foot print that counts. The only benefit of 38's over 37's would be the extra little bit of true ground clearance you would maintain when aired down.
CRZRTX
New member
Thanks, those are even the same beadlocks I had in mind.
GR8WHITE
New member
No problem, I'm satisfied overall with the wheel and tire combo. But they are chunking pretty bad... I have one side wall thats missing a large chunk and a few nobs (like the pic below) and I'm a little concerned but rocks eat up tires!
Attachments
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You call that ate up? I'll trade you, lol. Here's what one trip to the Rubicon will do to a cheap set of Procomps. I'll be getting trail grapplers next.
GR8WHITE
New member
No there not bad but they only have 3,000 miles and a hand full of wheeling trips.
t8er
New member
My buddy has 33" MTR's and I have 35" Nittos. Similar miles pretty much all the same trails. His are chunked all up. Mine aren't too bad. Nittos 100%
computeruser6
New member
RCV rates their front Dana 44 shafts for almost 8,000 ft-lbs of torque. I'm willing to bet that a Dana 44 ring and pinion would not withstand such forces, even momentarily. If your going to spend the money to strengthen the front axle, why not just get a Dana 44 housing with bigger tubes and a stronger centersection. Having a larger O.D. tube will do more to add strength than a gusset or truss. Here are a few more Dana 60 options if you're interested.
Strength in Bending
Note: Values greater than one indicate an improvement in bending strength. For example, the stock housing
with a sleeve is 1.35 times as strong when compared to the stock housing without a sleeve.
Stock JK Axle 2.5” OD x 0.25” = 1.0
Stock JK Axle with 2.0" OD x 0.25" sleeve on inside of tube = 1.35
Dynatrac JK Trail Series – Stock JK Pumpkin with re-tube to 2.75" OD x 0.375" = 1.79
Dynatrac ProRock 44 Standard Axle Tube 3.0" OD x 0.3125" = 2.13
Dynatrac ProRock 44 Extreme Duty Axle Tube 3.0" OD x 0.5" = 2.82
Weight
Note: Values greater than one correspond to an increase in weight. The ratios below show that the sleeve is
one of the heaviest options.
Stock JK Axle 2.5” OD x 0.25” = 1.0
Stock JK Axle with 2.0" OD x 0.25" sleeve on inside = 1.78
Dynatrac JK Trail Series Axle Housing Tube 2.75" OD x 0.375" = 1.58
Dynatrac ProRock 44 Standard Axle Tube 3.0" OD x 0.3125" = 1.49
Dynatrac ProRock 44 Extreme Duty Axle Tube 3.0" OD x 0.5" = 2.22
Don't get me wrong but, rather than waste all your money on trying to beef up your front axle, you'd be much better served getting a Dynatrac ProRock 44 and just playing with your factory rear Dana 44 till it breaks or you can afford an upgrade. Certainly, your factory rear Dana 44 will hold up A LOT better and longer than a beefed up factory front end even with 38's.
Personally I would go 5.13's or even 5.38's on 38+ tires, even with the 3.6.
Charts be danged!!!
Agreed, a higher ratio is what I would go with as well - 5.13's for sure but the pinion on a 5.38 in a Dana 44 is way too small for my taste.
I was kind of wondering the same thing. 38's are an odd size that you have to pay more to get and are hard to find. Tough finding a spare to bum off of one of your buddies too or a quick replacement on the road. 37's are plenty big and way more practical but hey, that's just my opinion.
Such as? :idontknow:
You're right, it really is and I can't really say it'd be worth getting just to run 38's. This is of course coming from a guy who runs a JK with 40's and a ProRock 60 up front and a ProRock 80 in the rear AND who also has a JK running 37's with a ProRock 44 up front and ProRock 60 full floater in the rear. For the most part, 37's are all that you really need and there are a lot of benefits to running a ProRock 44 such as it being lighter weight, provides more ground clearance and has much greater turning radius over a 60.
Rancho
Caught the Bug
Fairly certain, here.
One of my sales reps got a set (JK application, no brackets) for a Commando project and he was telling me that the TransAmerica guys told him made in the USA.
That being said, I am not 100% surelikeI am on my Dynatracs.
One of my sales reps got a set (JK application, no brackets) for a Commando project and he was telling me that the TransAmerica guys told him made in the USA.
That being said, I am not 100% surelikeI am on my Dynatracs.