I have the EVO bolt on coilovers, JKU, 60's, 40's, had 12-250/12-250 front, 10-200/12-250 rear, and was bottoming out. I just bought one pair of HD front springs 12-300 put them in the front and took the front 12-250 and swap them with the rear 10-200. So now the rear has 12-250/12-250, fixed the bottoming out problem for $150.
Are You Happy with Your EVO Bolt-On Coil Over Springs?
- Thread starter wayoflife
- Start date
I have the EVO bolt on coilovers, JKU, 60's, 40's, had 12-250/12-250 front, 10-200/12-250 rear, and was bottoming out. I just bought one pair of HD front springs 12-300 put them in the front and took the front 12-250 and swap them with the rear 10-200. So now the rear has 12-250/12-250, fixed the bottoming out problem for $150.
I have 40's, rock jock 60's on my JKU, what I did was replace the front lower 12-250 with a 12-300. Took the 12-250 from the front, swap it with the rear 10-200 spring. So the rear is stack with 12-250/12-250. In total it cost $150 for the HD 12-300 spring. No more issues with bottoming out and I can load the Jeep with passengers and gear again.
Hey there -
Read every page of this thread, great info. I think I have an idea of where to go but would love any advice.
I have the out of the box Evo King JK setup:
-Front 12" upper/12" lower - 250/250
-Rear 10" upper/12" lower - 200/250
-Don't know nitrogen pressure yet, kit on order from Schmidty Racing to check/fill.
Front seems fine. Like everyone else, I'm bottoming out in back when loaded, even with a lot of pre-load dialed in. I don't really want to buy 8 new PAC springs, so I'm thinking 250/300 or 300/350 Kings in the rear. I saw the posts before mine talk about swapping a 12" coil to the rear upper, is that a good idea? I'd think a 10" at higher spring rate would be the reco'd option. But I like cheap solutions (the $150 mentioned) so I'm happy to consider.
Thanks to this thread I'll also have to check out whether the strengthening bracket is hitting the tub. There's so many bumps and rattles that may just be one of them!
Read every page of this thread, great info. I think I have an idea of where to go but would love any advice.
I have the out of the box Evo King JK setup:
-Front 12" upper/12" lower - 250/250
-Rear 10" upper/12" lower - 200/250
-Don't know nitrogen pressure yet, kit on order from Schmidty Racing to check/fill.
Front seems fine. Like everyone else, I'm bottoming out in back when loaded, even with a lot of pre-load dialed in. I don't really want to buy 8 new PAC springs, so I'm thinking 250/300 or 300/350 Kings in the rear. I saw the posts before mine talk about swapping a 12" coil to the rear upper, is that a good idea? I'd think a 10" at higher spring rate would be the reco'd option. But I like cheap solutions (the $150 mentioned) so I'm happy to consider.
Thanks to this thread I'll also have to check out whether the strengthening bracket is hitting the tub. There's so many bumps and rattles that may just be one of them!
I think I'm going to try this route. A shop I talked to says two 12s on the rear is fine. And bguerrero's solution may solve my excessive preload (both ends) and bottoming out (rear). Worth a shot for $150. Even if I need to do more swapping around, can't hurt to have the 12-300 springs to experiment with.
Thx, all.
Thx, all.
chuck79
New member
I was trying to find a better place to ask but I think this will due.
Are the rear bolt-one mounted in the same upper position as the regular shock or are they further back.
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Are the rear bolt-one mounted in the same upper position as the regular shock or are they further back.
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Gobicon2017
New member
aermotor
Member
19,000 mile update
This is the best ride I've had in my Jeep, on and off road. I'm running 250/300 all 4 corners with compression adjusters. I run the adjusters in the middle most of the time and crank up when going fast in the desert. I do wish the middle setting was the lowest though so I could dial it up even firmer. Might change the valving when I need to rebuild them eventually to compensate for this. I have Zeon 10 steel line up front and carry a heavy toolbox and gear in the back all the time and this setup works good for me.
But I love everything about this setup—couldn't be happier. I am also running front/rear EVO airbumps as well.
This is the best ride I've had in my Jeep, on and off road. I'm running 250/300 all 4 corners with compression adjusters. I run the adjusters in the middle most of the time and crank up when going fast in the desert. I do wish the middle setting was the lowest though so I could dial it up even firmer. Might change the valving when I need to rebuild them eventually to compensate for this. I have Zeon 10 steel line up front and carry a heavy toolbox and gear in the back all the time and this setup works good for me.
But I love everything about this setup—couldn't be happier. I am also running front/rear EVO airbumps as well.
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Did replacing the rear coils with a 12 inch coil solve your problem?
Ddays
Hooked
Recently I came across a pair of rear King CO's for a fair deal and didn't want to pass it up so I ended up grabbing them. They are the standard ORE spec versions with the standard off the shelf springs. I started doing more serious research, including this thread, and came to the conclusion that getting these spring rates correct the first time is are pretty much a frustrating hit & miss deal. I came across a company, PAC Racing Springs, that offers custom spring ranges. They may have even been mentioned in this thread, hell I looked at so many I can't remember where I saw them. Regardless, I called them today to ask if there is some kind of guide that helps to narrow down the choices. The tech I spoke with gave me a suggested procedure to follow that helps you pick what you really need.
This is the cliffnotes version of the procedure:
Once you have the initial install all done & sorted out, take each CO back off and remove the top spring and replace it with a piece of PVC pipe of the same length, (probably 2" schedule 40 would work). re-install each CO and measure how much the bottom spring compresses and based on that, it will give you what that corner's weight is. Do this with all 4 corners and you'll see basically how much preload you'll need and can order springs accordingly.
I'm not 100% versed in CO tech, so I plan on much more research before I end up installing, but this gave me some comfort knowing there is a better way to dial in your ride instead of just buying a shitload of springs and hoping for the best.
Edit: Obviously, this method will work for any brand and there are other spring companies, including King that offer different spring rates. I just came across these guys first.
This is the cliffnotes version of the procedure:
Once you have the initial install all done & sorted out, take each CO back off and remove the top spring and replace it with a piece of PVC pipe of the same length, (probably 2" schedule 40 would work). re-install each CO and measure how much the bottom spring compresses and based on that, it will give you what that corner's weight is. Do this with all 4 corners and you'll see basically how much preload you'll need and can order springs accordingly.
I'm not 100% versed in CO tech, so I plan on much more research before I end up installing, but this gave me some comfort knowing there is a better way to dial in your ride instead of just buying a shitload of springs and hoping for the best.
Edit: Obviously, this method will work for any brand and there are other spring companies, including King that offer different spring rates. I just came across these guys first.
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fiend
Caught the Bug
Ddays
Hooked
LOL, I couldn't pass the deal up and it's been an itch for a couple years now. :rolleyes2:
fiend
Caught the Bug
Hey, no judgment from me. Probably better than half the shit on my Jeep was a “want” rather than a “need.” Especially if I could get a “deal.” [emoji23]
By the way, hows the new TC working out? No more explosions I hope. [emoji50]
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cozdude
Guy with a Red 2-Door
Be ready for the salt/brine to tear them apart like they have mine.
Ddays
Hooked
I hear ya. I'm lucky in that this isn't my DD so I can be selective with my outings in the snow. So far my King shocks have held up reasonably well over the past 2 Winters as I'm careful to stay off the roads when they lay that goddam brine shit down. It's worse than the salt.
black pearl
Hooked
I’m assuming this same method would work with the lever set up as well? Or I at least hope it will. I’m getting closer to pulling the trigger on that big project.
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Ddays
Hooked
I would think so. Regardless of the shock orientation, the springs work the same even if they are sideways.
black pearl
Hooked
That’s what I was thinking but thought I’d ask anyways. Sometimes I think I’m right but am way off. Just ask my wife, she’ll confirm that. [emoji23]
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OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
There is only one coil on the rear. Not sure if it would work the same or not
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Ddays
Hooked
Ya, forgot that. Don't think it'd work for that setup. That's what I get for assuming....
CapnMericaMyCopilot
Member
You’ve got me sad thinking what mine will look like. Jeep has basically turned white this week. Hoping it’s above freezing so I can at least hose it all down this weekend.
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