ACE weld on sliders
- Thread starter Hobolobo
- Start date
Hobolobo
New member
I just like the look. I know they will serve no purpose after the sliders. I just like how they cover up the pinch seam. I'll get rid of them if I cant find a good slider to reuse them.
Fair enough and really, to each their own. The two together has always looked silly to me but of course, that's just me :yup:
bkac
Caught the Bug
I was in the same boat, I didn't want to get rid of my factory Rubi rails. I went ahead and got the LoD sliders and ditched the Rubi rails. Looking back now, I'm so glad I did and don't know why I put so much thought into it. You will need/like the extra clearance you gain going with something different if you wheel hard. Just my thoughts...
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Last edited:
JAGS
Hooked
Trying to think of the design of the ACE sliders and know the bolt-ons sort of butted up against the rubi-rails. If they were welded on, would you be able to drop the Rubi rails low enough to take them off...even if you wanted to later?
Yup, this! Exactly what I did. Though I also run the EVO rock skins, but I thought the bit of silver peaking out of the bottom looked off. Painted the pinch before the skins went on. But can easily see tapping off a line at the pinch and painting black.
OP... if you're going weld on at this point, why not just go with the EVO sliders? :thinking: Is there that much difference in price/style.
Yup, this! Exactly what I did. Though I also run the EVO rock skins, but I thought the bit of silver peaking out of the bottom looked off. Painted the pinch before the skins went on. But can easily see tapping off a line at the pinch and painting black.
OP... if you're going weld on at this point, why not just go with the EVO sliders? :thinking: Is there that much difference in price/style.
JKWrang
New member
I think that would be my biggest hang up on this as well - not being able to remove a part that you don't actually need with weld on sliders. If you are determined to keep the rubi rails, I'd get the bolt on sliders just for the ability to remove the rust prone rubi sliders (WTF did Chrysler think it was a good idea to put plastic end caps on something that will likely see road salt and thus eat the cheap bead of silicon, especially when the moisture entry point is FACING THE DAMN WHEEL WELL!!)
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MTG
Caught the Bug
As far as the pinch seam goes, a little rattle can of black will fix that. At least, that's what I had done :yup:
EDIT: looks like hinrichs beat me to it
^^this!! :thumb:
I ran a set of ACE sliders and now now run EVO.
JAGS
Hooked
Was bugging me so I looked up the sliders. They are NOT compatible with the Rubi rails if you go weld on.
Close thread...LOL.
Couple other things to note, no mention of "type" of tubing used (there are different qualities of steel not just thickness) and the price is not that much less than EVO Sliders or the LoD (which can also be welded on if desired).
Close thread...LOL.
Couple other things to note, no mention of "type" of tubing used (there are different qualities of steel not just thickness) and the price is not that much less than EVO Sliders or the LoD (which can also be welded on if desired).
piginajeep
The Original Smartass
Ace uses mild steel, Evo uses DOM.
:cheesy: I was wondering that as well.
Yeah but, is DOM as cool sounding as "Level 2" :cheesy:
JAGS
Hooked
It's exponentially stronger than level 1. ACE is better known for level 1 protection. You may recognize a few and even have some currently around the house.
It's not know if level 1 is compatible with the Rubi-rails though. :cheesy::cheesy:
DA RUNT
New member
I currently run some Ace level one protection. I picked them up at the local tmc this morning for my elbow