It won’t leave you stranded. At worst if the clockspring was completely u/s you would just lose airbag and abs/esp systems.
The buttons on mine don’t work all the time but if you turn the wheel slightly it usually works. it’s been that way since new but of course it never failed for the dealer.
Unless you’re set on the tjm locker and keeping the rubi 44 housing, I’d be looking at alternatives that are meant to work together.
What happened to the stock rubi locker? Why would you want to downgrade shafts just to make it fit?
I’ve just used a hog lift jack under my rock sliders in the past or the tray of my old Ute to break the bead and then 2 tire irons on the ground to feed the tire off.
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I just got the sapphire 6x. Great watch and the activity tracking has been really useful for mountain biking. I haven’t had a smart watch previously but wouldn’t be without it now
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It’s really more about down travel than lift. I’m at 2.5” ish of lift but have 4” lift shocks due to my springs and setup.
I’ve had the swaybar flip at full travel and take out the drag link before I went too longer links. I think mine are about 10” but not sure.
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Just finished rebuilding this classic 1998 Specialized fsr extreme. Plenty of mods and lots of grinding to make some of them fit. The 27.5 front wheel and disc brakes make a huge difference
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I’ve seen that before a couple times with Suzukis. Its usually a cracked tone ring which is either spinning during light stops and therefore reading a lot faster than the others or the crack creates another magnetic field and changing the count
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Sorry should of clarified that I haven’t used one. I’m not sure it would be much help unless you were just starting out.
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