Scott's build of a 1981 CJ8 Scrambler

Custom color is cool until you watch a grocery cart fly accross the parking lot and hit your jeep. I would find a OEM color so color match won’t be an issue if something does happen. May I suggest Hydro 😉. I think GM had a color close to the Tri-five truck’s color back in the early 90’s.
 

Attachments

  • 1B17073F-8959-4521-B2D7-7A57FED868E5.jpg
    1B17073F-8959-4521-B2D7-7A57FED868E5.jpg
    74.8 KB · Views: 88
Insert vomit emoji here

Hey, not bad Doug! What are using to edit? Can you do doors too? Not planning on leaving those red. They'll match whatever the body is.

It's just a software that came with my android. It's a hue slider and does it automatically. For some reason it kept the doors separate color.
 
So took it into a restoration shop. For 3k they can go over the whole thing, install the cat and air pump, make sure it's all mechanically sound, etc. Basically help get it to pass emissions and be free of any hidden gremlins.

Full restoration to show room quality: $45k. Ouch.

Trying to decide what to do. I think I'll start by installing the cat and air pump myself and just seeing if I can get last emissions. After that, going to reassess where the Scrambler fits in our lives and if it's the right car for us or not.
 
I don't think a full showroom resto is warranted. So much you can do yourself. Paint the frame with a brush to make it look pretty and have the body sprayed one color and be good. If you are going to actually drive it and occasionally wheel it, you don't need it perfect. I think you can handle the worst of the emissions stuff and cut that cost way down. 3k is insanity for what you need there. More people are impressed with a mildly built older Jeep with a few battle scars anyhow. A full resto requires it kept in a garage to keep it pristine or it will age as it did before.
 
If you to the Weber website you can download the directions for tuning the carb. Just two screws, idle speed and mixture. Not sure what the “air pump” is they sold you. There used to be air pulse tubes running from your exhaust back to your intake. The “nutter bypass” is simple and only requires two wires. Since you have a Weber carb instead of a Carter it may have already been done. With a Weber carb I think you have to advance the timing slightly but make sure you do not experience pinging during a load/acceleration.

Here is another thought. You report bogging or loss of power while going up a hill. It’s possible, due to the age of components, that the soft fuel lines are collapsing and starving the carb for fuel. Metal lines run along the frame rails with rubber lines at the carb and fuel tank.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Top Bottom