lift question (YEAH I KNOW)

Good plan :thumb:

Edit: you can have tons of fun on those stock tires. Your Willys is extremely capable, even in stock form. Get out there and enjoy it. You'll learn along the way

My biggest concern for wheeling stock is airing down the tires. I am assuming my clearance would drop, maybe a big deal maybe not, but then I don't have a way to air them back up. I have been out a few times, but I will have to start getting out there more! :thumb:
 
My biggest concern for wheeling stock is airing down the tires. I am assuming my clearance would drop, maybe a big deal maybe not, but then I don't have a way to air them back up. I have been out a few times, but I will have to start getting out there more! :thumb:

Your clearance will drop, technically, but you won't really notice anything. I wheel an (almost) stock TJ on 33s and have tons of fun. I run an ARB compressor to air back up, but there are more inexpensive options for compressors.

OR, you could get to know people here on the forum, and tag along on trail rides. After you're done I'm sure any of them would let you borrow their compressor to air back up.
 
I will definitely be upgrading axles at some point, but right now that is just way out of budget. I won't be running 37's anytime soon, but my end goal is to be able to run 37's. I figured if I purchased a kit or put parts together to enable me to run 37s, I won't have to switch things out later down the road. Right now I'm running the stock willys edition tires which I think measure out to 32's. Once those are worn down I will upgrade to 35s. Then once I have the axles I'll upgrade the wheels and tires to 37s. It's a slow plan as the military isn't exactly a six figure job. lol

I'm military too. Go for a 3" lift, rock the 35's, then when you're ready for 37's, cut the fenders.
 
Here is what I plan and why. 4" enforcer with drag link flip and Rancho 9000. I plan on running 35s and I like the full fender look. I may want to upgrade to 37s in the future. I won't upgrade until I regear and dont want to regear unless I upgrade the front 44 to a PR44 or better. For the South East and some limited trips out west I think this set up will be more than ample. If you don't go to the 4 inch you can get by with out the drag link flip but it will still work better with one. you may have to cut your fenders even for 35s at 3 inches

https://www.offroadevolution.com/product/evo-mfg-4-enforcer-kit-with-plush-springs-jk-jku/

https://www.offroadevolution.com/product/evo-mfg-drag-link-flip-kit-jk-jku/
 
I have a 15 JKU Willys edition and currently run the EVO Leveling Kit and really like it. Inexpensive and gives about 2 inches of lift without having to change anything but front coils and pucks in the rear. This kit with your stock wheels you could wheel alot out there. Good luck on your decision. I was in the military and stationed there from 89-91, beautiful location enjoy.
 
What was your reasoning for choosing them? Was it proximity to apple valley? I have not heard of them before.

I did a lot of research on lifts. I knew I wanted to go long arm. It came down to Full Traction and EVO. I wanted bolt on as I wanted to do the install myself and at the time had no welder nor knew how to weld. Both of which are bolt on. Responses I received on the former forum told me both were good lifts and I'd be happy with either. It then came down to price. At the time I believe FT was $800 or so cheaper. So thats what I went with. Honestly I have not had any problems with it and it's solid. Customer service used to be fantastic but that employee left the company (no names..haha). Since then the customer service seems to have gone down hill. Both lifts have nearly the same mounting points and brackets. Both companies rear LCA frame side brackets hang low but no lower than stock. I've put it through its paces and it's held up great. The big difference is the joints. FT uses heim and clevite joints where EVO uses Currie johnny joints. The johnny joints are easily rebuildable plus EVO's arms are adjustable on the Jeep. FT joints have to be replaced and clevites I've heard are a royal PIA. That's why I still need to replace one...haha. Overall I'm not disappointed with my choice, however if I had to do it again I probably would go with EVO for the control arms. With regards to drive shafts. JE Reel are a recommended shaft and are built about an hour from me. At the time I did not know 1310 shafts were weaker than stock. If I did I'd have gone 1350 from the beginning. I blew my rear cv last year on the rubicon. Member Strikeforcezebra (formerly Aspenkid) had a brand new JE Reel 1350. Eddie and tony swapped it in and I was good to go. I plan on having a local shop build me a 1350 front when I upgrade. He rebuilt my broken rear, worn front and also builds shafts for ultra 4 cars and desert race trucks and buggys. He also uses only spicer products. Hope this info helps.


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My biggest concern for wheeling stock is airing down the tires. I am assuming my clearance would drop, maybe a big deal maybe not, but then I don't have a way to air them back up. I have been out a few times, but I will have to start getting out there more! :thumb:

I'm running just the EVO HD leveling kit and 35's without beadlocks. I air down to around 14 and use a Viair 420 to air up on the trail. If you have the coin, on board air is nice, but this clip onto the battery Viair has worked just fine for me.

I've never measured to see how much clearance is lost by airing down. It's never really been a concern for me. Good luck with your choices!
 
I have no experience with Teraflex. I am very thankful that I saw the pictures and videos ahead of time showing all of the parts that repeatedly break and fail.

I have had teraflex parts on my Jeep for a year or so. Springs, control arms with stock style bushings, sway links, trackbar etc. Nothing has failed and the finish on everything is still great. They have seen good trail use.

I'm in California and don't deal with salt or any other crappy road conditions so that may play a part but then again any brand can suffer from salt.

Springs have not really sagged. I'm a light 2 door so that helps.

Anywho, I have had a good experience with teraflex including the awesome customer service.
 
I have a 15 JKU Willys edition and currently run the EVO Leveling Kit and really like it. Inexpensive and gives about 2 inches of lift without having to change anything but front coils and pucks in the rear. This kit with your stock wheels you could wheel alot out there. Good luck on your decision. I was in the military and stationed there from 89-91, beautiful location enjoy.

Do you run aftermarket bumpers as well? I was assuming that a leveling kit wouldn't yield much lift if I was running steel bumpers front and rear. Thanks for the advise!
 
I have had teraflex parts on my Jeep for a year or so. Springs, control arms with stock style bushings, sway links, trackbar etc. Nothing has failed and the finish on everything is still great. They have seen good trail use.

I'm in California and don't deal with salt or any other crappy road conditions so that may play a part but then again any brand can suffer from salt.

Springs have not really sagged. I'm a light 2 door so that helps.

Anywho, I have had a good experience with teraflex including the awesome customer service.

11395768.jpg
 
I did a lot of research on lifts. I knew I wanted to go long arm. It came down to Full Traction and EVO. I wanted bolt on as I wanted to do the install myself and at the time had no welder nor knew how to weld. Both of which are bolt on. Responses I received on the former forum told me both were good lifts and I'd be happy with either. It then came down to price. At the time I believe FT was $800 or so cheaper. So thats what I went with. Honestly I have not had any problems with it and it's solid. Customer service used to be fantastic but that employee left the company (no names..haha). Since then the customer service seems to have gone down hill. Both lifts have nearly the same mounting points and brackets. Both companies rear LCA frame side brackets hang low but no lower than stock. I've put it through its paces and it's held up great. The big difference is the joints. FT uses heim and clevite joints where EVO uses Currie johnny joints. The johnny joints are easily rebuildable plus EVO's arms are adjustable on the Jeep. FT joints have to be replaced and clevites I've heard are a royal PIA. That's why I still need to replace one...haha. Overall I'm not disappointed with my choice, however if I had to do it again I probably would go with EVO for the control arms. With regards to drive shafts. JE Reel are a recommended shaft and are built about an hour from me. At the time I did not know 1310 shafts were weaker than stock. If I did I'd have gone 1350 from the beginning. I blew my rear cv last year on the rubicon. Member Strikeforcezebra (formerly Aspenkid) had a brand new JE Reel 1350. Eddie and tony swapped it in and I was good to go. I plan on having a local shop build me a 1350 front when I upgrade. He rebuilt my broken rear, worn front and also builds shafts for ultra 4 cars and desert race trucks and buggys. He also uses only spicer products. Hope this info helps.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

I really appreciate the information. How long ago did you install the lift? I was just looking to see if any components may have changed between when you got your kit and now.
 
Do you run aftermarket bumpers as well? I was assuming that a leveling kit wouldn't yield much lift if I was running steel bumpers front and rear. Thanks for the advise!

The EVO HD leveling kit definitely accounts for the aftermarket bumpers. I have the same kit and have a homemade front bumper using 1/4" steel and a Warn Zeon 10S up front. EVO rear fascia out back. This recent picture is a little deceiving as I was parked on a small uphill incline. Third row seat and trail gear is loaded in the back as well. It should give you an idea though.

IMG_4246.jpg
 
The EVO HD leveling kit definitely accounts for the aftermarket bumpers. I have the same kit and have a homemade front bumper using 1/4" steel and a Warn Zeon 10S up front. EVO rear fascia out back. This recent picture is a little deceiving as I was parked on a small uphill incline. Third row seat and trail gear is loaded in the back as well. It should give you an idea though.

View attachment 274435

That is really nice! I might go that route for now and save the money for axles and lockers. Thanks again!!:thumb::thumb:
 
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