Exodus Jeeps 7075 XD Tie Rods

Exodus Jeeps said:
Amazon. Just apply it like tooth paste. Don’t use it as tooth paste though. That would be weird.

Oh and hey, I got some more drag links done. Almost out again though. Remind me tomorrow and I’ll set you up.


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Glad to know you have the drag link as well.
Does it work if you have a flipped drag link?

When the end wears out on my Steer Smart, I will need one.
 
WJCO said:
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Lol. If I didn’t know him personally I wouldn’t say that.

It might work, but the tie rod ends are larger than the stock tie rod ends. I also think due to to the size of everything involved there would be too much angle on the tie rod end for it to work effectively. Besides, by the time someone is to the point of buying a 7075 tie rod they’re usually to the point of needing to flip it. I’m also not going to inventory straight RH tie rod ends on the off chance that one weirdo comes along wanting that. You also can’t use a LH offset because the pitman arm side is LH, therefore you wouldn’t be able to adjust it without removing it from either the pitman arm or the knuckle.


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Speedy_RCW said:
I just covered the internal area with marking compound then ran the reamer in by hand until I got fresh metal all the way through the taper.

Also I have this reamer if anyone in the area needs to borrow it. I could also send it to members and you return it when your done. I’m sure it would be cheaper than buying one you’ll probably only use once. Just PM me either way.


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Will this method still hold true for the pitman arm side on the drag link? Or does it need to be reamed more?

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desertrunner said:
Will this method still hold true for the pitman arm side on the drag link? Or does it need to be reamed more?

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The pitman arm take a lot more reaming. You’ll be test fitting more for depth than you will matching the taper. As stated in the other thread, I’d pull the pitman arm and ream it in a vise. This way you can make sure it’ll seat deep enough for the castle nut to line up with the cotter pin hole.


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Exodus Jeeps said:
The pitman arm take a lot more reaming. You’ll be test fitting more for depth than you will matching the taper. As stated in the other thread, I’d pull the pitman arm and ream it in a vise. This way you can make sure it’ll seat deep enough for the castle nut to line up with the cotter pin hole.


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Aw man that sounds like way more work haha
What other thread is that so I can do some reading?

Edit: haha my other thread got it thanks
I guess I needed an excuse to finally mount my vise

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