Super lift anyone?

NOPULP13

NOPULP13

New member
Hey guys well i want to with a great long arm lift with bolt on coil overs and make it great however it will cost me alot, well long story short i won a 50% off any superlift coupon sweet deal but i have to order direct from the company and there is no expiration date..
So i was looking up their lifts and cant find a pic of a two door with this lift SuperLift 4" RockRunner Lift Kit http://www.quadratec.com/products/16207_00XX_B_PG.htm

Anyone run this on a 2 door? which shocks do you run? does anyone think this is a good idea?
i mean it looks ok just dunno if this company is tried and true? i mean id be getting a 4" lift for half off, that would save me money and basicly cover the drive shafts i will need to buy.

also once i get it can i run this with stock 32" tires and when i run 37" tires with spacers could i stay with this rubicon wheels? sorry for all the questions but i need help here should i save for top shelf or run with this?
 
Strictly an opinion here. Buy your superlift for 50% off, then sell it for a profit. Use the money to buy a better lift. Yes you can run 37's on stock rubi wheels. Its not idea but plenty of people run that combo without issues. You may wanna run a little lower pressure in the tires but either way you will be good.
 
rsbmg said:
Strictly an opinion here. Buy your superlift for 50% off, then sell it for a profit. Use the money to buy a better lift. Yes you can run 37's on stock rubi wheels. Its not idea but plenty of people run that combo without issues. You may wanna run a little lower pressure in the tires but either way you will be good.
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You cannot simply run 35's or 37's on stock wheels. You would need spacers in order to offset the 6.5" backspacing of the stock wheels. People do it with spacers.
 
OverlanderJK said:
You cannot simply run 35's or 37's on stock wheels. You would need spacers in order to offset the 6.5" backspacing of the stock wheels. People do it with spacers.
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He already said he was planning on running spacers. His question was can he run 37's on stock wheels, which he can. Also it's 6.25'' backspacing not 6.5'' Details guys........
 
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rsbmg said:
He already said he was planning on running spacers. His question was can he run 37's on stock wheels, which he can. Details guys........
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I know that. Just clarifying your post for someone else that comes along and says their 37's won't fit with the stock wheels.
 
You clarified my post? My post just answered his question as presented it didn't need clarifying, especially with an incorrect backspacing for stock rims:brows: But thanks!
 
I would assume it would have a similar stance to any other 2 door on a 4 inch lift. I have never heard of anyone running superlift products though so I have no idea about their quality. This may be hard to beleive but quadratec does sell junk every now and then.
 
Thanks for the info so far guys I know the stance will be the same as most other 4" of lift but i am more concerned with pics of the lift it self installed I want to see if any noticeable flaws appear.

rsbmg i originally thought of that but problem is i know of no one running or looking for this lift don't want to buy it and be stuck without selling it

I might just end up trying to do that,

buying it and then try and sell it, while i gather up the coin to install it if no one bites by the time i have the money for tires and install ill throw it on why not? but I am new to the jk world I came from a 98 TJ now does this kit have a drop pitman arm to correct steering?? im not completely sure what i should be looking for from them i know i will need adjustable control arms which i see in the pics but what else do i need to look for which shock options are good for this?

I also know keeping the stock wheels isnt the best choice but I like these new rubicon wheels for now I just dont like having black creagors for some reason i do like a set of those Hutchinson beadlocks but hella pricey that will have to wait

Im 25 and married im starting to realize i cant spend every penny i have on my jeep so everything in small steps to not piss off the wife lol
 
rsbmg said:
He already said he was planning on running spacers. His question was can he run 37's on stock wheels, which he can. Also it's 6.25'' backspacing not 6.5'' Details guys........
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So Mr. I live in the United States, where abouts do you live. You seem so knowledgable and experienced, I would love to see the kind of trails you run and your Jeep in action. I would love to learn from your vast experience. :thumb:
 
NOPULP13 said:
Thanks for the info so far guys I know the stance will be the same as most other 4" of lift but i am more concerned with pics of the lift it self installed I want to see if any noticeable flaws appear.
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For 4" of lift, you really should run some kind of steering geometry correction like a drag link flip/track bar relocation system. You can run a track bar relocation and dropped pitman arm but, I personally would prefer the prior. The other thing I don't like about this kit is that the control arms are not adjustable. Instead, this kit wants you to use cam bolts to dial in your caster and I am no fan of them. Last but not least, with 4" of lift, you really need to get a front drive shaft if you have an 07-11 automatic or 2012-up. If you have a 2-door, you really should get a new rear shaft as well and that would require adjustable rear upper control arms.

buying it and then try and sell it, while i gather up the coin to install it if no one bites by the time i have the money for tires and install ill throw it on why not? but I am new to the jk world I came from a 98 TJ now does this kit have a drop pitman arm to correct steering??
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Unlike the TJ, you do not "need" to correct your steering geometry at 4" of lift but, it will help your handling. However, you WILL need to address your track bar at the same time as it is critical to keep both it and your drag link parallel to each other.

but what else do i need to look for which shock options are good for this?
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I personally would ditch the old school hydros that come with this kit and upgrade to a set of decent monotubes like a set of Bilstein 5100's or Rancho 7000's. They are affordable and work much better.

I also know keeping the stock wheels isnt the best choice but I like these new rubicon wheels for now I just dont like having black creagors for some reason i do like a set of those Hutchinson beadlocks but hella pricey that will have to wait

Im 25 and married im starting to realize i cant spend every penny i have on my jeep so everything in small steps to not piss off the wife lol
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You've be fine with stock wheels so long as you run 1.5" spacers and make sure to stick with a 12.50 wide tread.
 
Not to steal a post but thats somethig don't fully understand yet eddie. Rear uppers if you get a rear driveshaft? Why is that? I have seen people say the track bar and drag link need to be paralell but never heard why.

Basically what i am asking is there a thread where you fully explain all of the different ways to set your geometry and why? Or could you make one? I don't want to steal this post :p
 
bl17z90 said:
Not to steal a post but thats somethig don't fully understand yet eddie. Rear uppers if you get a rear driveshaft? Why is that? I have seen people say the track bar and drag link need to be paralell but never heard why.

Basically what i am asking is there a thread where you fully explain all of the different ways to set your geometry and why? Or could you make one? I don't want to steal this post :p
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It is to set the rear pinion angle. :thumb:
 
bl17z90 said:
Not to steal a post but thats somethig don't fully understand yet eddie. Rear uppers if you get a rear driveshaft? Why is that? I have seen people say the track bar and drag link need to be paralell but never heard why.

Basically what i am asking is there a thread where you fully explain all of the different ways to set your geometry and why? Or could you make one? I don't want to steal this post :p
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Your factory rear drive shaft uses CV joints on both ends and so it is not necessary to set your pinion angle. However, after you lift your Jeep, the angle of your rear drive shaft will be steep enough that your CV boots will be in a state of constant pinch. On a 2-door which has a much shorter shaft, this angle will be severe and the pinch on the boots will be significant enough to cause them to fail prematurely. Once compromised, nothing will prevent the grease from spitting out and that will fry the bearings inside in no time at all.

An aftermarket drive shaft that uses u-joints and a double cardan requires that you set your pinion so that it is in line with the shaft. Failure to do this will result in significant driveline vibrations. Left un-checked, this can result in driveline failure, pinion leaks or even transfer case failure. The only way you can set your pinion is to install adjustable rear upper control arms and setting them long enough that your pinion gets rotated up and in line with your drive shaft. Does this make sense? Here's a visual for you:

This is what your factory shaft looks like at the pinion before setting it...
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And, this is what it looks like after setting your rear upper control arms so that your pinion is in line with the shaft. It is much easier to do this on your factory shaft and before swapping it out with an aftermarket one...
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lol stealing my own thread but how do i get one of those ? idk what they are called but the item used to tell what angle it is at and what is proper angle on something like this?
 
NOPULP13 said:
lol stealing my own thread but how do i get one of those ? idk what they are called but the item used to tell what angle it is at and what is proper angle on something like this?
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Well, this is an old school angle finder but, any iPhone will do the job too :yup:
 
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