Suck down winch

RK KRLR

New member
Just installed coilovers front and rear. Wanted to see if anyone is running a suck down winch. If so what brand as well where did you mount it.
 
Thank you. I am not running limit straps, so maybe I will just go that route. I have seen a few videos of people with them, but not sure if it is necessary.
 
Thank you. I am not running limit straps, so maybe I will just go that route. I have seen a few videos of people with them, but not sure if it is necessary.

What coil over kit did you go with? Limit straps really aren't needed either.
 
A suck down winch is for the front end suspension when you are going up hill or trying to climb up an obstacle. The weight transfers towards the rear axle, the front end gets lighter, your springs extend, and you get less traction. If it is steep enough and the suspension unloads unexpectedly, you can find yourself going over backwards.

There are times when compressing the front suspension can make the difference between flopping or making it over the obstacle.
 
Only person I've ever seen running one is Stu - and he fabbed up a bracket and pulley and mounted a Warn 2.5 ATV winch just above the shock tower. Seemed to get the job done.
Of course this was on his old TJ
 
The majority of JK owners will never put there daily driver in a position to even contemplate needing one. EVO1 does have a clevis on the front ProRock 60 axle to hook the winchline up to it. I have never used when riding as co-driver during the races, maybe Mel has used it in the past, but not that I am aware of.

If you are dead set on rigging up some sort of suck down winch, as in that will be its only single purpose in a winches life, you could probably use anything like a Warn 9.0RC or smaller. In fact as stated in the above post, a tiny little Warn UTV/ATV rated winch would work nice too since you are only pulling weight straight down and would only need to overcome the spring rates of your coilovers.
 
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EVO1 does have a clevis on the front ProRock 60 axle to hook the winchline up to it.

I have strongly considered doing this to my front axle so I could use my front which as a suck down, but I have decided not to for one main reason- if I decide to use my winch to suck down the front for a steep climb, my winch is now being used and is unavailable for getting me up Said obstacle.. Now, you might be able to unhook from the axle and pull cable, but my worry is that if it's steep enough, I might not be able to let the suspension back out or I'd flop.

I've almost gone over backwards a handful of times and this is why I've considered the suck down winch, but I think for me, it's gonna have to be a designated winch.


My ride- 2001 power wheel, 11" plastic tires, upgraded battery, boat sides, custom bumpers, tow hooks, new paint.
 
I have strongly considered doing this to my front axle so I could use my front which as a suck down, but I have decided not to for one main reason- if I decide to use my winch to suck down the front for a steep climb, my winch is now being used and is unavailable for getting me up Said obstacle.. Now, you might be able to unhook from the axle and pull cable, but my worry is that if it's steep enough, I might not be able to let the suspension back out or I'd flop.

I've almost gone over backwards a handful of times and this is why I've considered the suck down winch, but I think for me, it's gonna have to be a designated winch.


My ride- 2001 power wheel, 11" plastic tires, upgraded battery, boat sides, custom bumpers, tow hooks, new paint.

I know you wrote "pull cable" in probably the most generic way possible, but I will mention for anyone that is actually running steel winch cable and routing it through the roller fairlead on the bumper, and then down to the axle, that there is a very, very good chance you will flat spot the steel winch line. The curve/bend it makes over the fairlead roller is pretty severe. Most competition guys using these suck down winches during races or events, typically run synthetic line which can handle the severe bend, or they have a purpose built set up with the winch fairlead opening "clocked" straight down (or at least facing the axles)
 
I know you wrote "pull cable" in probably the most generic way possible, but I will mention for anyone that is actually running steel winch cable and routing it through the roller fairlead on the bumper, and then down to the axle, that there is a very, very good chance you will flat spot the steel winch line. The curve/bend it makes over the fairlead roller is pretty severe. Most competition guys using these suck down winches during races or events, typically run synthetic line which can handle the severe bend, or they have a purpose built set up with the winch fairlead opening "clocked" straight down (or at least facing the axles)

Yep... Totally just a saying. I run synthetic front and rear, but always still say "pull cable".


Good point to mention for those who might be running that heavy, nasty, glove requiring, flat spotting, dangerous, old school, steel cable. 😉

Though I can't imagine anyone who would be running a suck down winch to still have steel.


My ride- 2001 power wheel, 11" plastic tires, upgraded battery, boat sides, custom bumpers, tow hooks, new paint.
 
this could also come in handy on the front and rear if you've built a monster and its to tall to fit into the garage. :cheesy:
 
this could also come in handy on the front and rear if you've built a monster and its to tall to fit into the garage. :cheesy:

....or option #2- air down every time you need to park in the garage, then air back up once you leave the house. Very convenient :thinking:
 
Cozdude told me about this when it was just him and I wheeling at rausch once, when we decided to go up a very steep hill. I forget the exact degree but we did measure it lol. I ended up just going up was wow what a pucker factor on that one. Of course the pics we took show nothing, but yeah for a daily it was extreme id say. Never knew it was bad to do with steel cable however.
 
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