Steering wheel judder.

10abadilla/jk

New member
I have developed a small steering wheel judder. Ball joints, Unit bearings, Drag link and tires are all new. Tires have about 7000 miles on them now. I checked everything and it all seems ok. okI don't see play in anything. I'm thinking it could be a bad balanced tire. Any ideas?

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WJCO

Meme King
Rotate tires front to rear and see if that changes the symptom. Also double check that track bar ends don't have any movement.
 

10abadilla/jk

New member
Rotate tires front to rear and see if that changes the symptom. Also double check that track bar ends don't have any movement.
I checked the track bar a couple of ways I rocked the jeep back and forth and no play. I also tried moving it by hand and couldn't. It seemed really solid. Bushing didn't look cracked or anything. Should I pull it off and check to see if anything is wollowed out. I tried tightening it also. But it was tight as can be.

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Last edited:

WJCO

Meme King
I checked the track bar a couple of ways I rocked the jeep back and forth and no play. I also tried moving it by hand and couldn't. It seemed really solid. Bushing didn't look cracked or anything. Should I pull it off and check to see if anything is wollowed out. I tried tightening it also. But it was tight as can be.

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None of that will work. You need to start the engine with vehicle in park and have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you watch the track bar ends for movement. If you don't have a helper, you can do this with a video camera and small tripod yourself but it's a little more tedious. If there is even 1/16" of play, it is loose enough to cause a shimmy or even Death Wobble. If there is movement, pull that bolt and check to make sure the holes are still round and not elongated.

If holes are wollowed/elongated, weld a tight washer on to correct the hole. If they aren't, you have a bad bushing.

Here's a random video I just found on YT showing what it looks like if it has movement:

 

10abadilla/jk

New member
None of that will work. You need to start the engine with vehicle in park and have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you watch the track bar ends for movement. If you don't have a helper, you can do this with a video camera and small tripod yourself but it's a little more tedious. If there is even 1/16" of play, it is loose enough to cause a shimmy or even Death Wobble. If there is movement, pull that bolt and check to make sure the holes are still round and not elongated.

If holes are wollowed/elongated, weld a tight washer on to correct the hole. If they aren't, you have a bad bushing.

Here's a random video I just found on YT showing what it looks like if it has movement:

Wow That is a lot of movement in that video thank you for that. I will check that for sure tonight.

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10abadilla/jk

New member
If it turns out to be the track bar I was looking into the core 4x4 adjustable track bar. I have a 2.5 in lift and I sit at 3in. The track bar is for 3-6 in. Should I be in the clear. Or would it be to long. I couldn't find measurements on the website through mobile.

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Last edited:

WJCO

Meme King
If it turns out to be the track bar I was looking into the core 4x4 adjustable track bar. I have a 2.5 in lift and I sit at 3in. The track bar is for 3-6 in. Should I be ok?

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I would check with them first to be safe. You should measure from eye to eye on it and provide them with the measurement and they can probably tell you for sure. If your axle currently ISN'T centered, keep that in mind too as you may have to add a little bit of measurement as well to get it centered.
 

Andy5160

Hooked
I had track bar movement few weeks ago i simply re torqued both ends but there was no steering judder more of an clanging noise while turning at low speed.
Still curious what you find. Let us know and Good Luck.
 

WJCO

Meme King
I had track bar movement few weeks ago i simply re torqued both ends but there was no steering judder more of an clanging noise while turning at low speed.
Still curious what you find. Let us know and Good Luck.

^ Good point. I left out earlier that bolt could be loose as a possible cause.
 

JKbrick

Active Member
None of that will work. You need to start the engine with vehicle in park and have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you watch the track bar ends for movement. If you don't have a helper, you can do this with a video camera and small tripod yourself but it's a little more tedious. If there is even 1/16" of play, it is loose enough to cause a shimmy or even Death Wobble. If there is movement, pull that bolt and check to make sure the holes are still round and not elongated.

If holes are wollowed/elongated, weld a tight washer on to correct the hole. If they aren't, you have a bad bushing.

Here's a random video I just found on YT showing what it looks like if it has movement:


I thought you were supposed to turn the wheel back and forth with the engine off? Did I read this wrong?


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WJCO

Meme King
I thought you were supposed to turn the wheel back and forth with the engine off? Did I read this wrong?


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Every workshop manual I've read says to do it with the engine off, however, the amount of effort involved especially on a Jeep/Truck with larger tires is extremely difficult to do in real life. I've always done it with the engine running and seemed to find play when it's there just fine. Just my opinion.
 

10abadilla/jk

New member
Every workshop manual I've read says to do it with the engine off, however, the amount of effort involved especially on a Jeep/Truck with larger tires is extremely difficult to do in real life. I've always done it with the engine running and seemed to find play when it's there just fine. Just my opinion.
Agreed Turing the wheel with the engine off takes some effort. Especially since my wife will be the one doing it. I think I'll try with it running first. And then with it off if need be.

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Andy5160

Hooked
Every workshop manual I've read says to do it with the engine off, however, the amount of effort involved especially on a Jeep/Truck with larger tires is extremely difficult to do in real life. I've always done it with the engine running and seemed to find play when it's there just fine. Just my opinion.

I would do it with the running engine as long as all the safety precautions are taken.Also track bar bolts should be torqued to 125 pounds(TY Cozdude for this info)
 

10abadilla/jk

New member
I had track bar movement few weeks ago i simply re torqued both ends but there was no steering judder more of an clanging noise while turning at low speed.
Still curious what you find. Let us know and Good Luck.
I have no clunking noise. And bolts are torqued. That was the first thing I checked. The steering wheel judder is mild. Either way I'll check again. Thank you. I'll let you know what I find. I'm hoping it's something simple.

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JKbrick

Active Member
Every workshop manual I've read says to do it with the engine off, however, the amount of effort involved especially on a Jeep/Truck with larger tires is extremely difficult to do in real life. I've always done it with the engine running and seemed to find play when it's there just fine. Just my opinion.

That would be easier I agree. I guess I'll try that first then next time I'm under one looking for a problem


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onbelay

New member
Not sure if anyone else mentioned it (I did read the comments!), but check your control arm bushings. We've had this symptom for any one of the following:

1. Worn ball joints
2. Loose track bar
3. Bad hub bearing assembly
4. Tires not balanced
5. The aforementioned control arm bushings.

Speaking of bushings, we literally threw away our aftermarket adjustable LCAs that use OEM clevite bushings, and bought the Off Road Evolution adjustable LCAs with Johnny Joints. One of the best decisions ever; we can rebuild one of those joints in 15 minutes (using the Currie tool) at a cost of $15.

Hope this wasn't hijacking. Good luck fixing your issue!

:)
 

10abadilla/jk

New member
Not sure if anyone else mentioned it (I did read the comments!), but check your control arm bushings. We've had this symptom for any one of the following:

1. Worn ball joints
2. Loose track bar
3. Bad hub bearing assembly
4. Tires not balanced
5. The aforementioned control arm bushings.

Speaking of bushings, we literally threw away our aftermarket adjustable LCAs that use OEM clevite bushings, and bought the Off Road Evolution adjustable LCAs with Johnny Joints. One of the best decisions ever; we can rebuild one of those joints in 15 minutes (using the Currie tool) at a cost of $15.

Hope this wasn't hijacking. Good luck fixing your issue!

:)
I do have stock control arms and was actually going to replace them with the core 4x4 tier 3 like 2 weeks ago But I keep running into other issues that have prevented me from buying them. They are still in the next purchase list if I can ever get to it. Hopefully it's just a tire balancing issue. If so they will be bought next week.

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