RECOVERY GEAR : A Must Have Before Hitting the Trails

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
US Jack is really nice but yes, they are pricey. Another jack that I would highly recommend is made by Norco. Some of their stuff is still made in the USA and the rest is made in Japan. Their bottle jack is Japan but still really well made.

I ordered a 3 ton Jet from Amazon, its a little too short to jack up 37's without a block though. Its small & compact enough that it lives in the jeep permanently

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009MZIV0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Those two look exactly the same just different labels. Wonder if they are the same Jack.
 

J-Frame

New member
I had to change a tire not too long ago and the factory scissor jack made it a slightly “interesting” event, even though we were on pavement for the tire change. Then I happened to see Eddie’s video on hi-lift vs. bottle jack and it got me to thinking.

I have an on-board air system (Viair 300P), tire patch equipment including deflators and spare valve core tools, jump-start power pack, first aid, a get home bag, and we always have food and water including water filtering capability with us. The Jeep is my daily driver, and we do our ”off-roading” on forest service roads in East Tennessee/Western North Carolina. No rock-crawling, no mud-bogging, no body-damaging things at all. 99% of the time off-road it is just my wife and I, no group rides, just solitude.

So in that situation, with a toy budget of around $300, would you recommend a solid bottle jack and axle bracket, or a kinetic recovery rope and couple of soft shackles first? I will end up with both, just not sure which would be the smarter investment this month.

J-Frame
 

1tmjpr

New member
Since being a newbie to jeep off roading. What is good to have, and not so don't need. So far here is my list
Small tool box
Tree Strap
Tow Strap
Snatch Block
Shovel
ARB compressor
Lifting Jack

Any input would be greatly appreciated.
 

WJCO

Meme King
Since being a newbie to jeep off roading. What is good to have, and not so don't need. So far here is my list
Small tool box
Tree Strap
Tow Strap
Snatch Block
Shovel
ARB compressor
Lifting Jack

Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Merged here to this thread.

Also see this thread:

I'm sure we have many other threads like these as well as it's a common question.
 

1tmjpr

New member
Merged here to this thread.

Also see this thread:

I'm sure we have many other threads like these as well as it's a common question.
Thanks searched a little but, didn't do a good job obviously.
 

Jeeper99

Member
Since being a newbie to jeep off roading. What is good to have, and not so don't need. So far here is my list
Small tool box
Tree Strap
Tow Strap
Snatch Block
Shovel
ARB compressor
Lifting Jack

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

If you have straps, you might benefit from having a couple soft shackles.

I see you have a snatch block and tree strap. Does that mean you have a winch? If so, a soft shackle and recovery ring (aluminum pulley) could be handy.
 

1tmjpr

New member
If you have straps, you might benefit from having a couple soft shackles.

I see you have a snatch block and tree strap. Does that mean you have a winch? If so, a soft shackle and recovery ring (aluminum pulley) could be handy.

If you have straps, you might benefit from having a couple soft shackles.

I see you have a snatch block and tree strap. Does that mean you have a winch? If so, a soft shackle and recovery ring (aluminum pulley) could be handy.
Do have a winch. Will look into the items. Thanks
 

Jeeper99

Member
Just wanted to put this out there. I read where someone was killed during a recovery in the Kingman AZ area. The vehicle was a big Ford Super Duty. The recovery vehicle was using the trailer hitch to attach a 3" strap. Unfortunately, the hitch insert failed and the separated part of the hitch went thru the windshield of the stuck vehicle, killing the driver. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...s-after-getting-stuck-in-the-mud.98609/page-2

There's somethings we can learn from this. That hitch was a long drop hitch insert. Attaching the strap to the ball would put the insert bar in bending load, which you can equate to using a cheater bar to pry on one side of something. This would drastically increase the local loads on one side of the insert. The longer the drop on the hitch, the more mechanical leverage on the insert bar. Don't do this with a drop hitch.

If attaching to a hitch, use a straight insert and preferably a solid steel insert.

Nylon straps and especially those new "kinetic ropes" store a lot of energy and will act like a huge slingshot. That's the beauty of them and the hazard.

I know it's a hassle, but a simple safety line can be used to choke the snatch strap/kinetic rope a short distance from the attach point, then anchored to a different point on the recovery vehicle. The slack in the safety rope should be enough to allow full movement during the "snatch" ,but short enough to arrest any failed attach structure on the recovery vehicle before it can travel half the distance to the other vehicle. The same can be used on the stuck vehicle. The rope can be inexpensive poly rope. It won't see much load from a failed strap.

recovery fatality.jpg
 

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
Just wanted to put this out there. I read where someone was killed during a recovery in the Kingman AZ area. The vehicle was a big Ford Super Duty. The recovery vehicle was using the trailer hitch to attach a 3" strap. Unfortunately, the hitch insert failed and the separated part of the hitch went thru the windshield of the stuck vehicle, killing the driver. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...s-after-getting-stuck-in-the-mud.98609/page-2

There's somethings we can learn from this. That hitch was a long drop hitch insert. Attaching the strap to the ball would put the insert bar in bending load, which you can equate to using a cheater bar to pry on one side of something. This would drastically increase the local loads on one side of the insert. The longer the drop on the hitch, the more mechanical leverage on the insert bar. Don't do this with a drop hitch.

If attaching to a hitch, use a straight insert and preferably a solid steel insert.

Nylon straps and especially those new "kinetic ropes" store a lot of energy and will act like a huge slingshot. That's the beauty of them and the hazard.

I know it's a hassle, but a simple safety line can be used to choke the snatch strap/kinetic rope a short distance from the attach point, then anchored to a different point on the recovery vehicle. The slack in the safety rope should be enough to allow full movement during the "snatch" ,but short enough to arrest any failed attach structure on the recovery vehicle before it can travel half the distance to the other vehicle. The same can be used on the stuck vehicle. The rope can be inexpensive poly rope. It won't see much load from a failed strap.

View attachment 378894
This story has been beat to death here.
 
You guys can call me what you want, I wasn't being a troll, and Eddie, I didn't post any video on this thread. I am just an advocate for safety and what you posted is 100% wrong, I don't care how new your straps are, you DON'T hook two straps together using a clevis. I copied a story I read many years ago and it is a prime example why you don't put two straps together with a clevis.

It is so easy to put two straps together without having a projectile in between them.

I won't even waste my breath responding to the two idiot followers who obviously don't have a fawkin' clue.

You boys can flame me all you want, I know the proper and safe methods for recovery and it's a shame that you guys have to learn the hard way.

Peace!
Jeff
Jeff is correct. Please don't connect two straps with a D ring. You don't want metal projectiles.
Buy a soft shackle. Or learn your boy scout or sailing knots and use a bit of rope (hopefully you know the breaking strength of all your gear).
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Jeff is correct. Please don't connect two straps with a D ring. You don't want metal projectiles.
Buy a soft shackle. Or learn your boy scout or sailing knots and use a bit of rope (hopefully you know the breaking strength of all your gear).
*sigh* I appreciate you being a forum messiah and saving us from ourselves with your reply to whoever it was who posted back in who remembers when on a thread that was started over 10 years ago. I can't even remember if soft shackles were a thing back then but to satisfy your concerns, I have since edited what I posted so that it on longer triggers future internet experts. Thank you.
 

kevman65

Hooked
So, every SOP in the country for lifting heavy loads that use shackles (all shackles are clevis's, not all clevis's are shackles) to connect the straps are wrong?

I think not. Typically your shackle is NOT your weakest link, your straps are. If your shackles are not rated for as much or more than your straps then you are rigging incorrectly.

On a normal day in a power house or a refinery, we lift WAY more than your recovery gear is rated for. But then again, we buy certified gear that is rated for the job at hand, not the best price on the internet or the color that matches our off road rig.

If you put a shackle in between two straps, with one strap eye on the top bow and the other strap on the cross bolt opposite, you won't break the shackle, the strap will fail first.

I recommend using Crosby 3/4" shackles for your off road recovery. If you want to save on weight then by all means use soft shackles, but know they aren't the same thing.
 
*sigh* I appreciate you being a forum messiah and saving us from ourselves with your reply to whoever it was who posted back in who remembers when on a thread that was started over 10 years ago. I can't even remember if soft shackles were a thing back then but to satisfy your concerns, I have since edited what I posted so that it on longer triggers future internet experts. Thank you.
Life is too short to get torqued over the little things like forum posts.
I work in a refinery. I'm a licensed professional engineer. Rigging safety is a very big deal so yeah, I will make a comment to encourage a safer approach - especially since most folks reading this are NOT trained riggers.
If you are a trained rigger - then you know the limits of each single piece of your equipment.
The shackle is unlikely to break. But if something else breaks a shackle IN THE MIDDLE of the pull becomes a projectile.
- hence, the recommendation to use a soft shackle for connecting two straps.
FYI - my mom also has dementia. I very much appreciate the video you guys posted about taking time to take care of your mom.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Life is too short to get torqued over the little things like forum posts.
I work in a refinery. I'm a licensed professional engineer. Rigging safety is a very big deal so yeah, I will make a comment to encourage a safer approach - especially since most folks reading this are NOT trained riggers.
FYI - my mom also has dementia. I very much appreciate the video you guys posted about taking time to take care of your mom.
I agree, life is too short to get all worked up over thread that was started back in 2012 and hadn't been posted on in over half a year and back then, only to have someone post up the same crap that had been going on around the internet like it was somehow new and people needed to know about. To be perfectly honest, I don't even know how anyone finds a crusty old thread like this and looking at our statistics, most don't but like I said, I've already edited my original post to "exclude" the connecting of straps so everyone should be safe now.

I really am sorry to hear about your mom.
 

onlyone

Active Member
*sigh* I appreciate you being a forum messiah and saving us from ourselves with your reply to whoever it was who posted back in who remembers when on a thread that was started over 10 years ago. I can't even remember if soft shackles were a thing back then but to satisfy your concerns, I have since edited what I posted so that it on longer triggers future internet experts. Thank you.
He didn’t get triggered. He’s a rigger. Riggers don’t get triggered.
 
I agree, life is too short to get all worked up over thread that was started back in 2012 and hadn't been posted on in over half a year and back then, only to have someone post up the same crap that had been going on around the internet like it was somehow new and people needed to know about. To be perfectly honest, I don't even know how anyone finds a crusty old thread like this and looking at our statistics, most don't but like I said, I've already edited my original post to "exclude" the connecting of straps so everyone should be safe now.

I really am sorry to hear about your mom.

I've noticed some folks getting torqued about "reviving an old thread."
Newbies (and old-bees) use Google which finds these old threads and often they are EXTREMELY valuable.
I've learned a huge amount about brake lock differentials from JK threads that are 10 years old. BLD was new back then and everyone was talking about it and experimenting with it.

Likewise I've learned a lot about lunch box lockers, posi-traction, LSD (the kind in your differential, not in your magic lemonaid), helical LSD vs clutch LSD ... from old threads.

If I see a post that seems incorrect, I might reply, especially if it is safety related ...
Newbies are going to find these old threads so I think it makes sense to post updates. Others may disagree.
YMMV
 
So, every SOP in the country for lifting heavy loads that use shackles (all shackles are clevis's, not all clevis's are shackles) to connect the straps are wrong?

I think not. Typically your shackle is NOT your weakest link, your straps are. If your shackles are not rated for as much or more than your straps then you are rigging incorrectly.

On a normal day in a power house or a refinery, we lift WAY more than your recovery gear is rated for. But then again, we buy certified gear that is rated for the job at hand, not the best price on the internet or the color that matches our off road rig.

If you put a shackle in between two straps, with one strap eye on the top bow and the other strap on the cross bolt opposite, you won't break the shackle, the strap will fail first.

I recommend using Crosby 3/4" shackles for your off road recovery. If you want to save on weight then by all means use soft shackles, but know they aren't the same thing.
The difference between recovery and lifting is that when lifting, any projectiles will be primarily up and down whereas they will be primarily horizontal during a recovery and also directed toward where people are most likely to be.
 
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