Random (non-Jeep) Shit You’re Working On....

Primo82

Primo82

Caught the Bug
Snboarder113 said:
Thanks for the tips, I have the corner tool but somehow I just couldn't get it to work right. I think I was using too much mud. And then I got frustrated and ended up just slapping more on trying to fix it. Annnnd it went downhill from there. Its still drying from round one a day later..... ::facepalm::



Inside, outside I so far am not having issues with there are also only 2 I'll need to do, and a crap ton of inside corners.


My biggest issue I think is just knowing when to stop and letting it dry, where it sits now im gonna end up sanding 95% of what I did the hell off and starting over. I know I got a good base layer of mud under the tape with no voids So I think I can leave the tape up and just fix the top. I'll be so happy when I can just paint and move forward.
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Yea you really only want to lay a 1/8 to 1/4 thick layer of mud from what I have seen on each pass. And you pull most of it back off.

You should check on what is called hot mud or setting mud. You have to mix it from powder which is a bitch too but you can get some that sets up in 30 or so minutes so you can hit it again quickly.

Thinner is better, and plan for more coats. You can even water down your joint compound to make it go on thinner. My biggest headache with joint compound is how long it takes to set up.

If I were closer is just come do those for you! Certainly way less than I'm dealing with now.
 
Snboarder113

Snboarder113

Hooked
Primo82 said:
Yea you really only want to lay a 1/8 to 1/4 thick layer of mud from what I have seen on each pass. And you pull most of it back off.

You should check on what is called hot mud or setting mud. You have to mix it from powder which is a bitch too but you can get some that sets up in 30 or so minutes so you can hit it again quickly.

Thinner is better, and plan for more coats. You can even water down your joint compound to make it go on thinner. My biggest headache with joint compound is how long it takes to set up.

If I were closer is just come do those for you! Certainly way less than I'm dealing with now.
Click to expand...

If you were closer I’d buy all the beer and watch you do it for sure! Haha I don’t need fast drying mud I just need to learn to do it right. Honestly I don’t mind the 24 hour wait period while I have an excuse to go drink beer.

It was finally dry enough to address today. I was way too thick for first coat I definitely didn’t thin it enough. I was able to take a random orbit sander to it and start from a better place. Calling this coat first and a half ;)



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jesse3638

jesse3638

Hooked
Primo82 said:
Yea you really only want to lay a 1/8 to 1/4 thick layer of mud from what I have seen on each pass. And you pull most of it back off.

You should check on what is called hot mud or setting mud. You have to mix it from powder which is a bitch too but you can get some that sets up in 30 or so minutes so you can hit it again quickly.

Thinner is better, and plan for more coats. You can even water down your joint compound to make it go on thinner. My biggest headache with joint compound is how long it takes to set up.

If I were closer is just come do those for you! Certainly way less than I'm dealing with now.
Click to expand...
Snboarder113 said:
If you were closer I’d buy all the beer and watch you do it for sure! Haha I don’t need fast drying mud I just need to learn to do it right. Honestly I don’t mind the 24 hour wait period while I have an excuse to go drink beer.

It was finally dry enough to address today. I was way too thick for first coat I definitely didn’t thin it enough. I was able to take a random orbit sander to it and start from a better place. Calling this coat first and a half ;)



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Click to expand...
When learning to do drywall I had a hell of a time until I got a 6" taping knife. It helps you get it on nice and thin. I follow it up with an 8" then a 10 or 12" knife. Lightly sanding any high spots or ridges out that can't be removed with the taping knife. A rubber cove tool makes 45° corners a breeze. Trickiest part is trying to blend new texture into existing texture Here are some pics from my project last year. IMAG3031.jpeg IMAG3035.jpg IMAG3034.jpg IMAG3037.jpg IMAG3039.jpg IMAG3040.jpg IMAG3041.jpg IMAG3042.jpg

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Snboarder113

Snboarder113

Hooked
jesse3638 said:
When learning to do drywall I had a hell of a time until I got a 6" taping knife. It helps you get it on nice and thin. I follow it up with an 8" then a 10 or 12" knife. Lightly sanding any high spots or ridges out that can't be removed with the taping knife. A rubber cove tool makes 45° corners a breeze. Trickiest part is trying to blend new texture into existing texture Here are some pics from my project last year. View attachment 351864 View attachment 351865 View attachment 351866 View attachment 351867 View attachment 351868 View attachment 351869 View attachment 351870 View attachment 351871

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That came out nice! I’ll look into a 6” when I start the outside of this room. I’ve been using a 3” and a 10”, I tried the trowel and was not a fan I was able to control better with the 10” taping knife. I wanted to feel successful at something today so I did all the wiring and added it into the breaker box and installed the fan. Electrical I’ve got down never any worries, it’s this finessing of drywall mud that’s got me beat ;) today’s coat looks a lot better than a few days ago, I’ll keep at it
IMG_8290.jpg


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Primo82

Primo82

Caught the Bug
jesse3638 said:
When learning to do drywall I had a hell of a time until I got a 6" taping knife. It helps you get it on nice and thin. I follow it up with an 8" then a 10 or 12" knife. Lightly sanding any high spots or ridges out that can't be removed with the taping knife. A rubber cove tool makes 45° corners a breeze. Trickiest part is trying to blend new texture into existing texture Here are some pics from my project last year. View attachment 351864 View attachment 351865 View attachment 351866 View attachment 351867 View attachment 351868 View attachment 351869 View attachment 351870 View attachment 351871

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Click to expand...

Good tips and that turned out great!



Snboarder113 said:
That came out nice! I’ll look into a 6” when I start the outside of this room. I’ve been using a 3” and a 10”, I tried the trowel and was not a fan I was able to control better with the 10” taping knife. I wanted to feel successful at something today so I did all the wiring and added it into the breaker box and installed the fan. Electrical I’ve got down never any worries, it’s this finessing of drywall mud that’s got me beat ;) today’s coat looks a lot better than a few days ago, I’ll keep at it
View attachment 351877


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Click to expand...

I'll take electrical work over drywall any day! That looks a lot better. I think patience and lots of beer is the recipe to success for mudding honestly.
 
jesse3638

jesse3638

Hooked
Snboarder113 said:
That came out nice! I’ll look into a 6” when I start the outside of this room. I’ve been using a 3” and a 10”, I tried the trowel and was not a fan I was able to control better with the 10” taping knife. I wanted to feel successful at something today so I did all the wiring and added it into the breaker box and installed the fan. Electrical I’ve got down never any worries, it’s this finessing of drywall mud that’s got me beat ;) today’s coat looks a lot better than a few days ago, I’ll keep at it
View attachment 351877


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Click to expand...
Yeah 3" is too small. You want to work with at least 6". That way you get good overlap on each side of the joint and really get the tape embedded in one pass. Yes were talking drywall mud...haha
Primo82 said:
Good tips and that turned out great!





I'll take electrical work over drywall any day! That looks a lot better. I think patience and lots of beer is the recipe to success for mudding honestly.
Click to expand...
I'm getting better at electrical but still not a fan of it. Especially 3 and 4 way switches...haha.

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