Have you tried keying up to run position for a few seconds, then back to off, then start? This would allow the fuel pump to re prime the system before your first start attempt. I am leaning towards possible fuel pump or injector bleeding off.
If that doesn’t work I would have you check for spark on first try, but I’m pretty sure you have the coil rails that sit directly on the plug and I don’t know of a way to verify spark on that one.
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Thank you for your responses but yes II usually turn the key to the run position for 3- 5 seconds before I crank to start with mine. 2003 4.0
Might be like what Quicksilver is saying - possible fuel pump or injector bleeding off
Start with spark plugs and I'd pick up a quality spark tester as well.The CE light is random multiple cylinder misfire detected with pending codes misfire on cylinder 1 & 2. I have OBD II reader and I can gather live data but I not sure which reading I should be watching to get more info if anyone knows that?
I picked up plugs today and my friends shop said they will check out the coil pack sometime next week. I will post solution when I get it figured out. Thanks
Honestly throwing plugs at it might take care of your misfire code and starting issue.. it's the cheapest place to start. No need for testers, pull the fuel relay, take each plug out one at a time and lean it against the block and have someone crank. If you don't see spark than the start looking into other possible issues.
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Still doesn't hurt to have a tester lying around that's allHonestly throwing plugs at it might take care of your misfire code and starting issue.. it's the cheapest place to start. No need for testers, pull the fuel relay, take each plug out one at a time and lean it against the block and have someone crank. If you don't see spark than the start looking into other possible issues.
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I fully agree. It's nice to have, just not 100% necessaryStill doesn't hurt to have a tester lying around that's all
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True but they can still be tested the same as if it were a distributorPretty sure this year 4.0 had the coil on plug setup. Basically a rail that bolts down onto the plugs, no wires at all.
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This is most likely it if your loosing fuel pressure right away.They have a bad design. The fuel pump holds pressure, but the check valve weakens over time, especially when cold out, requiring the key to be cycled on and off to prime the system again. 240k on mine and it’s on its second remanned pump for the same reason. The one I pulled out first wasn’t original either.
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