JK tie rod disassembly

Idaho 51

New member
After experiencing vibrations in the front end, I have replaced the Upper and Lower balls joints. The vibrations changed. Calling that a success I am now working on the tie rod ends and drag link ends. Using the Moog products as I wanted grease-able parts and I don’t have the means to go to the up-graded heavier duty stuff.

Everything comes apart just about like everyone has said in these forums. The only end not specifically mentioned is the drag link end attached to the Pitman arm. There is no room to mount the puller and get to the tightening nut. So I removed the passenger end first and rotated the pitman arm all the way left. This allows it to peek under the frame in the driver side wheel well. At this point you can brace the arm from below and tap it using the standard BFH and it should come apart. I did not try to mount the puller when it in the wheel well position. It came apart using a dozen or so BFH taps.

So now the big question: How does the tie rod end come off? This is the rod between the left and right wheels. One end has the adjuster and the other, the passenger side, has an end that threads into a factory finished end: it has several crimp marks in the rod. It is threaded to receive the “end” with the ball joint. Does this thing unthread? What is the expected torque, I’ve used a 5’ cheater, but that is another story my wife wouldn’t watch. Is it a reverse thread?

I have not read anywhere this would be a problem so I am telling you it can be a problem. Anyone got an answer?

PS: the puller that fit my 2009 steering parts is a Evertough 67028, opening at bottom about 1-1/8”, inside width about 1- ½”. I only used it on one of four ends. Two knocked out in about three 3# taps on the tie rod, one was the drag link on the pitman rod, the one on the drag link passenger side used the puller and about ½ turn so it probably would have falled out in another tap or two.

On the bright side I finally figured out what to do with the giant vise I acquired some years ago. Can you say trailer hitch mount? Idaho 51
 
From what I understand the one side can come out but is really not meant to be swapped out. I guess Chrysler expects you to buy a new one to replace the end link.


2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.
 
^this.

I think wayoflife posted up a diagram not to long ago of the schematic.
 
^this.

I think wayoflife posted up a diagram not to long ago of the schematic.

Sounds great, any idea how to find it? I searched 14 ways from sunday for information about this and found nothing. I guess I don't speak computer.
 
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Sounds great, any idea how to find it? I searched 14 ways from sunday for information about this and found nothing. I ask I don't speak computer.

So thanks for the help, I found the picture Eddie posted. http://wayalife.com/images/smilies/doh.gif

Anyone know where to find the cheapest after market Tie rod that accepts new joints on both ends? O, and it needs to fit inside the stock 17" rims with no wheel spacer. http://wayalife.com/images/smilies/cheesy.gif What?

Guess I'll be running the old parts for a bit longer, wonder what those threads look like? http://wayalife.com/images/smilies/grayno.gif
 
Glad you found it. I didn't have time to link it.

Your cheapest option will probably be to call around and see if any local shop has a factory take off laying around. If you upgrade, your factory wheels might be an issue with some manufacturers TREs. Unfortunately, I can't help you out there. Maybe someone else will post up, otherwise start calling the manufacturers or distributors in the morning.

Good luck!
 
IF your tie rod ends rotate around freely, that is totally normal. IF they can shift up and down or side to side in an Z or X, Y axis, they are shot - I seriously doubt this is the case for you and you're really spending a lot more time and money on a project than you need to. Also, the factory tie rod isn't worth throwing any money at as you will most likely bend it on the trail.
 
"So I removed the passenger end first and rotated the pitman arm all the way left. This allows it to peek under the frame in the driver side wheel well. At this point you can brace the arm from below and tap it using the standard BFH and it should come apart."

I'm about to do this myself (replacing the drag link with new joints at both ends), and was wondering what you ment about bracing the arm? Did the tre ring out after tapping the pitman arm? I was thinking about using a pickle fork and working it that way - what do you think? Thanks for feedback.
 
The pitman arm is long enough to reach under the frame and into view in the left front tire wheel well. You can use your BFH on the top, just barely. If you are going to hit the Pitman arm you should probably brace it from beneath. Cut a 2x4 to fit from the floor to just snug under the Pitman arm. It would be counter productive to knock the Drag Link end out of the Pitman arm only to find you bent the pitman arm in the process.

As for the question of play I the joints, at 50K miles all four OEM have vertical movement. They are not sloppy. I got a vibration at 40-50 mph. All four tires have been re-balanced at the tire shop and the alignment checked. I also have replaced the upper and lower ball joints, that seems to help a little.
 
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