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17xJKU

New member
Hey everyone!

New to the forums and to the jeep world. I've always wanted a jeep and finally got me a 2017 JKU sport. My original plans were to do a leveling kit, 33s, some bumpers and lights.. Nothing major.. and have a good daily. Well I got to go on some rides with people where I live, and noticed that i am going to be wanting more than 33s. So I itched for 35s or 37s. Decided if I Itch for 37s, I might as well build for that. So far, here is what I got.

Mods:
- Matte crystal granite line-x (exterior of body)
- Custom high side floor mats
- Quadratech cargo mat
- LED interior lights
- Angry grill
- Aries automotive front bumper
- Aries automotive aluminum fenders
- Smitty bilt rear bumper and tire carrier
- Mammoth boulder 17inch wheels x5
- 37/12.50/17 Kanati trail hogs
- Metalcloak 3.5 gamechanger rocksport
- PR44 with dynatrac ball joints, RCV 35 spline shafts, and ARB locker
- 35 spline chromoly 35 spline rear shafts, arb locker and diff cover
- 4.88 gears
- Apollointech switch pod
- Superchips Flashcal

--LOTS MORE TO COME--
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I should add that the lift, wheels, tires, gears, axles are not done yet. Rear axles, locker and gears should be done today. Pr44 should be shipped next week. And the lift is sitting here in boxes waiting for my jeep to get back to me. I need some advice tho...

Input on drive shafts. I've been looking at Adam's 1310 solid, or their 1350??

What brand tie rod and drag link?? Been looking at metalcloaks

Input on Rickslide Engineering power steps. Any good? Worth the price if they have a sale?
 
I should add that the lift, wheels, tires, gears, axles are not done yet. Rear axles, locker and gears should be done today. Pr44 should be shipped next week. And the lift is sitting here in boxes waiting for my jeep to get back to me. I need some advice tho...

Input on drive shafts. I've been looking at Adam's 1310 solid, or their 1350??

What brand tie rod and drag link?? Been looking at metalcloaks

Input on Rickslide Engineering power steps. Any good? Worth the price if they have a sale?

Welcome! 1350, stock tie rod until you bend it. Flipped drag link when you lift it. No Rockslide steps if your going to slide on rocks.

Edit: Metalcloak lift uses adjustable track bar so you may need an adjustable drag link. Personally I prefer the factory track bar with raised bracket and flipped drag link.
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Welcome! 1350, stock tie rod until you bend it. Flipped drag link when you lift it. No Rockslide steps if your going to slide on rocks.

Edit: Metalcloak lift uses adjustable track bar so you may need an adjustable drag link. Personally I prefer the factory track bar with raised bracket and flipped drag link.
Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE mobile app

I thought you couldn't flip the factory drag link bar cause of the bend? I honestly haven't looked. My pr44 does have the stock and raised positions for the track bar..
 
Welcome to WAL.....you had me till the Angry Eyes....1350 for sure with the 37's...

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Lol. Not a fan of the angry eyes I assume? I like How it looks, but that's my personal preference. 1350s is what I'm leaning towards, but others say 1310 solid. Still an upgrade from stock, but also a good place for a weak point. I don't know if I agree with that..
 
Lol. Not a fan of the angry eyes I assume? I like How it looks, but that's my personal preference. 1350s is what I'm leaning towards, but others say 1310 solid. Still an upgrade from stock, but also a good place for a weak point. I don't know if I agree with that..

I believe factory is equivalent to 1320, so 1310 is actually a down grade.


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I thought you couldn't flip the factory drag link bar cause of the bend? I honestly haven't looked. My pr44 does have the stock and raised positions for the track bar..

You don't flip the factory one. It is a new drag link that installs "flipped " to the top of the knuckle instead of the bottom. The kit comes with a shim and you have to drill the knuckle. This way you put the factory track bar in the raised position on the axle and do the "flipped" drag link to keep the track bar and the drag link parallel to each other.

The other way is to put the adjustable track bar in the stock/lower hole on the axle and keep the drag link in the factory location under side of knuckle which may require a longer adjustable drag link to center steering wheel.

The flipped version improves roll center and handles better.



Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
You don't flip the factory one. It is a new drag link that installs "flipped " to the top of the knuckle instead of the bottom. The kit comes with a shim and you have to drill the knuckle. This way you put the factory track bar in the raised position on the axle and do the "flipped" drag link to keep the track bar and the drag link parallel to each other.

The other way is to put the adjustable track bar in the stock/lower hole on the axle and keep the drag link in the factory location under side of knuckle which may require a longer adjustable drag link to center steering wheel.

The flipped version improves roll center and handles better.



Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE mobile app

I think I got my track bar and drag link mixed up. My bad. I understand now.
 
Got my jeep back today with the 4.88s, 35 spline shafts, and arb locker in the rear. Put on my 37s just to see it without the lift... looks funny. Bad news tho... Got home with it, and noticed the lr axle seal is leaking bad.. I will find out tomorrow what the installer is going to do now.
 

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I drove it about 70 miles today, and no leak from the axle seal. May have been residual they never cleaned up. They said it could have been over filled and just spitting out there? But that doesn't sound right to me. I'll keep an eye on it.
 
Lol. Not a fan of the angry eyes I assume? I like How it looks, but that's my personal preference. 1350s is what I'm leaning towards, but others say 1310 solid. Still an upgrade from stock, but also a good place for a weak point. I don't know if I agree with that..

With 37s I would go with 1350s.
 
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