Hardcore PR 60/60 with 37"s???

I am not sure if this in too much of a highjack and can delete if needed. Are there any issues with the spacing for the coilover or bypass on an Evo DTD with the standard front axle on the Hard Core ProRock 60/60 Axle-Set? I am getting ready to order a set and want to make sure I am future proofed.
 
Right stuff by permatex, same as I've always used.

I very well might have to do that. I never had any issues on my old PR60 either... here's how the bottom looks on the new axle:

Okay, just making sure. When you install your diff bolts, is it safe to assume you do an initial tightening then then come back to torque the bolts after the RTV dries? If not, I would recommend doing that.

That does look like a lot more lip than I had on my diff cover. Of course, mine is completely smooth with the housing now and I never have any issues with it.
 
Okay, just making sure. When you install your diff bolts, is it safe to assume you do an initial tightening then then come back to torque the bolts after the RTV dries? If not, I would recommend doing that.

That does look like a lot more lip than I had on my diff cover. Of course, mine is completely smooth with the housing now and I never have any issues with it.

Yes sir you assume correct.

I really like your idea of removing the extra material to flush it all together. I'll get after that this afternoon.
 
I am not sure if this in too much of a highjack and can delete if needed. Are there any issues with the spacing for the coilover or bypass on an Evo DTD with the standard front axle on the Hard Core ProRock 60/60 Axle-Set? I am getting ready to order a set and want to make sure I am future proofed.

I'm not exactly sure what your concern is.... it's a full width PR60 front just as anyone else here is running with that set up on either coilovers or DTD. Clearance is going to be an issue with wheel backspacing, not axle width.
 
Yes sir you assume correct.

I really like your idea of removing the extra material to flush it all together. I'll get after that this afternoon.

Just took this shot of my rear PR60

20170723140134-2741c4c7.jpg
 
One more thing on the leaking diff. On our JK rear, the fluid kept draining on the bottom for like 30 minutes, so we wiped it good and sealed it quickly anyways and a week later it started leaking there. Somehow the fluid still had migrated into the RTV as it was drying. We had to do it again. So, just make sure that all of the fluid has fully drained and that the sealing surface is dry when you apply the RTV.
 
I'm not exactly sure what your concern is.... it's a full width PR60 front just as anyone else here is running with that set up on either coilovers or DTD. Clearance is going to be an issue with wheel backspacing, not axle width.

What is the recommended backspace with 68.5" WMS?
 
What is the recommended backspace with 68.5" WMS?

68.5" is a full width axle. Unless you're running a DTD, you should be able to run as much as 5.5" of back spacing although, most guys run 3.5"-4" as that's what most bead locks come in.
 
PR60/60 with 37”s?

Just ordered the Hardcore Pro Rock 60/60 axle set Pro Rock 60 High Pinion front, Pro 60 Low Pinion rear, on 8x6.5 bolt pattern with pro grip brake kit, and I am planning on running them with 37’s until I come to the point where I do a LS/Hemi swap as well as make this not my daily driver, then make the jump to 40’s.

Is anybody else running the Pro 60 Full float standard cut (low pinion) rear with 37”s?

How much clearance did you loose compared to the Rubi D44?

Do you wish you had just jumped to 40’s?
I do a lot of over the road driving, 8-10 hour trips about once to twice a month so I was wanting to hold off until this isn’t my daily.

Thanks Guys


(**Yes I used the search bar, no I didn’t find the answers I was looking for, or they were what I would consider old and out of date, so save your forum tough guy internet rules bullshit for somewhere else)

I'm rolling with this setup. Yes I am happy with my decision to stick with 37's for now. I am planning on 40's but not until I go with an LS. And from the research I've done my 5.13 gears will be a great combo for 40's and an LS. I have to many other details to button up before I jump to 40's.
Needs
Hydro assist
Heavier duty rear tire carrier- my poison spyder brawler 2 is just barely working with the 37x13.5 with atx pro chamber 2. Probably just do the evo carrier.
Go fast suspension (evo)
I installed the evo rockstars to gain ground clearance at the shock mounts. I would recommend doing the same. But not necessary.
I did not have to change any of my springs bump stops etc. I went from a flipped drag link on a d44 to a standard bottom mount drag link and with the raised knuckles of the pr 60 I am exactly the same angle and location at full bump. About a 1/4" from the frame. I also had to do a little bit more trimming on my front fender wells. The extra width of the axle caused that, but nothing crazy.


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I'm rolling with this setup. Yes I am happy with my decision to stick with 37's for now. I am planning on 40's but not until I go with an LS. And from the research I've done my 5.13 gears will be a great combo for 40's and an LS. I have to many other details to button up before I jump to 40's.
Needs
Hydro assist
Heavier duty rear tire carrier- my poison spyder brawler 2 is just barely working with the 37x13.5 with atx pro chamber 2. Probably just do the evo carrier.
Go fast suspension (evo)
I installed the evo rockstars to gain ground clearance at the shock mounts. I would recommend doing the same. But not necessary.
I did not have to change any of my springs bump stops etc. I went from a flipped drag link on a d44 to a standard bottom mount drag link and with the raised knuckles of the pr 60 I am exactly the same angle and location at full bump. About a 1/4" from the frame. I also had to do a little bit more trimming on my front fender wells. The extra width of the axle caused that, but nothing crazy.


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Good information, thanks for this post.
 
Oh wait I read that wrong.... just the shock mounts? Not the track bar bracket? Shock mounts get replaced with the rockstar skids for sure but no need to cut off and replace anything else????


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Oh wait I read that wrong.... just the shock mounts? Not the track bar bracket? Shock mounts get replaced with the rockstar skids for sure but no need to cut off and replace anything else????


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

Yes, just the lower shock mount should be the only thing needed to replace with a fabbed unit if you're running high clearance long arms.

If you are running regular arms the coilovers should work just fine with a set of D60 rockstars.
 
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