Enforcers Unite!

Plush rides. Not so plush?

So it's been a couple of days now with the new Enforcer lift. The coils seem incredibly stiff and feel as if they bang then start compressing while going over bumps. It feels like something is binding right at the moment it needs to flex the coil. I can not figure out what is binding but it's driving me nuts. My jeep is making tons of knocking noises when on bumpy sections.

Any suggestions where I should look? When I installed the lift I did not loosen or take off the upper control arms. Should I loosen all upper and lower control arms and re torque? Hard to explain other than it feels like it's binding and more so on the front right.
 
Plush rides. Not so plush?

So it's been a couple of days now with the new Enforcer lift. The coils seem incredibly stiff and feel as if they bang then start compressing while going over bumps. It feels like something is binding right at the moment it needs to flex the coil. I can not figure out what is binding but it's driving me nuts. My jeep is making tons of knocking noises when on bumpy sections.

Any suggestions where I should look? When I installed the lift I did not loosen or take off the upper control arms. Should I loosen all upper and lower control arms and re torque? Hard to explain other than it feels like it's binding and more so on the front right.

Can you post pictures of how the springs and shocks are sitting? Can you tell if it's front or rear?
 
Plush rides. Not so plush?

So it's been a couple of days now with the new Enforcer lift. The coils seem incredibly stiff and feel as if they bang then start compressing while going over bumps. It feels like something is binding right at the moment it needs to flex the coil. I can not figure out what is binding but it's driving me nuts. My jeep is making tons of knocking noises when on bumpy sections.

Any suggestions where I should look? When I installed the lift I did not loosen or take off the upper control arms. Should I loosen all upper and lower control arms and re torque? Hard to explain other than it feels like it's binding and more so on the front right.

If you lift your Jeep with any of the stock control arms still on it you need to loosen all the control arm mounting bolts and re-torque them with the weight of the Jeep on its tires at its new ride height, otherwise the bushings will be under bind which can cause issues. Would be willing to bet doing this will fix your issue.
 
Kind and helpful forum-folk of the Wayalife Enforcers Unite Thread....please lend me you ears (eyes?).

I was running through a parts inventory of my 3" Enforcer kit and noticed that I was missing "Shock Mount Hardware". I have calls into Trail Jeeps and Evo to look into this for me...but I am just trying to better understand what I am actually missing from the package. From my best (and mostly limited) knowledge, I cannot find any reference to "Shock Mount Hardware" in the instructions, other than in the parts list. I was under the impression (which could very well be incorrect) that I was supposed to use the OEM shock bolts when putting my new shocks in (Rancho 9000xls). Perhaps this "Shock Mount Hardware" is the shock relocation brackets? I believe it was mentioned earlier in the thread that those brackets come with the enforcer kit standard now (please correct me if I'm wrong)?

In any case, if this "Shock Mount Hardware" is indeed the relo brackets, it seems like I may be able to just run the shocks in the standard locations for now, then throw the brackets in later? (Unless of course "Shock Mount Hardware" is something totally different and I'm just a complete idiot of course).

I just did the 4" install a month ago, and I used the stock bolts to mount the shocks in the stock location. Only hardware I received related to shocks was the bushings and sleeves. Those came in the box with the shocks though, and would probably be brand specific. Mine were Fox.
 
I just did the 4" install a month ago, and I used the stock bolts to mount the shocks in the stock location. Only hardware I received related to shocks was the bushings and sleeves. Those came in the box with the shocks though, and would probably be brand specific. Mine were Fox.

Shock mount hardware would to me, would be the hardware for the relocation brackets. If you did not pay for extended shock mounts, you reuse factory hardware. Unless this is new? I reused my shock mounting hardware and don't have any problems. :thumb:

I got off the phone with Tim from Trail Jeeps a little while ago. He confirmed with Evo that the part number in question is ONLY included in the Coilover kits. I suppose it's a typo then...but at least I don't have any missing parts!

Thank you both for the insight, and thanks again to Tim at Trail Jeeps for going the extra mile!
 
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Can you post pictures of how the springs and shocks are sitting? Can you tell if it's front or rear?

If you lift your Jeep with any of the stock control arms still on it you need to loosen all the control arm mounting bolts and re-torque them with the weight of the Jeep on its tires at its new ride height, otherwise the bushings will be under bind which can cause issues. Would be willing to bet doing this will fix your issue.

Thanks for the replies guys.

Finally got a chance to crawl underneath the Jeep today.

I loosened up the control arms and jumped on it to cycle the suspension a little and re-torqued everything.
I also think this was the main problem. I placed the rear sway bar links up front and the passenger side was hitting the coil tower.
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1462215034.061792.jpg.


Now time for a test drive.

So I put the original short fronts back on and have way more clearance.
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1462215093.657904.jpg.
 
Thanks for the replies guys.

Finally got a chance to crawl underneath the Jeep today.

I loosened up the control arms and jumped on it to cycle the suspension a little and re-torqued everything.
I also think this was the main problem. I placed the rear sway bar links up front and the passenger side was hitting the coil tower.
View attachment 201338.


Now time for a test drive.

So I put the original short fronts back on and have way more clearance.
View attachment 201339.

I wouldn't go wheeling like that. Your links are now too short and will most likely allow the sway bar to go backwards after flexing. Maybe try getting the evo hd links?
 
Thanks for the replies guys.

Finally got a chance to crawl underneath the Jeep today.

I loosened up the control arms and jumped on it to cycle the suspension a little and re-torqued everything.
I also think this was the main problem. I placed the rear sway bar links up front and the passenger side was hitting the coil tower.
View attachment 201338.


Now time for a test drive.

So I put the original short fronts back on and have way more clearance.
View attachment 201339.

Mine is the same, the factory rear links are slightly too long for the setup, while it works, its not perfect and does slightly rub the spring perch. But yes, I would NOT wheel the jeep like that unless you plan on disconnecting the links to wheel.
 
The stock fronts are WAY to short and will flop over the second you go to flex out. You want your swaybar parallel, if not 5* above parallel, with the frame.
 
The stock fronts are WAY to short and will flop over the second you go to flex out. You want your swaybar parallel, if not 5* above parallel, with the frame.

While that is generally pretty good advice, it is dependent on how much down travel you have. I just found out the hard way that 10* above is not enough on my rig.
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1462221481.521959.jpg
 
Thanks for the replies guys.

Finally got a chance to crawl underneath the Jeep today.

I loosened up the control arms and jumped on it to cycle the suspension a little and re-torqued everything.
I also think this was the main problem. I placed the rear sway bar links up front and the passenger side was hitting the coil tower.
View attachment 201338.


Now time for a test drive.

So I put the original short fronts back on and have way more clearance.
View attachment 201339.

Mine is the same, the factory rear links are slightly too long for the setup, while it works, its not perfect and does slightly rub the spring perch. But yes, I would NOT wheel the jeep like that unless you plan on disconnecting the links to wheel.

I'm pretty sure Drew has posted on this in the past. Couple things noted. 1) Make sure your axle is centered. Shouldn't be any rubbing. 2) Run the proper length endlinks and notch/clearance the perch if necessary.

I'm paraphrasing Drew, but maybe he/others can chime in and school me if I'm wrong.

On my set up I'm running the proper length links and have no rubbing on the metal perch. Does rub the plastic liner a little, but who cares about that.

Good luck.
 
Agreed that it's different for every rig for the most part. So many people have told me my links are too long etc but they don't hit anything at full bump and they don't go backwards.
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1462223067.459214.jpg
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1462223094.627035.jpg
 
I'm pretty sure Drew has posted on this in the past. Couple things noted. 1) Make sure your axle is centered. Shouldn't be any rubbing. 2) Run the proper length endlinks and notch/clearance the perch if necessary.

I'm paraphrasing Drew, but maybe he/others can chime in and school me if I'm wrong.

On my set up I'm running the proper length links and have no rubbing on the metal perch. Does rub the plastic liner a little, but who cares about that.

Good luck.


Yea the links are too short. I'm a bit stumped on what to do now though.
 
Yea the links are too short. I'm a bit stumped on what to do now though.

Are your lower arms adjusted properly? Talking out my ass here (brainstorming) but if they were a little short, would that pull your axle back? Mine are close, but are clear from the perch. Arms and centered axle are the only things I can think of. That and the fact not every jeep is exactly the same. That perch has no structural value, so notching it a little to clear the links shouldn't be a problem.
 
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