Eaton Locker or ARB Locker

The biggest cause of front axle shaft breaks is caused by bearing caps that come free. This is caused by the yokes wollowing out and the c-clips popping off as the cap spins in them. Once off, the trunion will tear through the yoke and often times, takes out the ball joints too. If you really let your u-joints and shafts get to this point, spare joints won't be of much help to you. The best thing you can do to prevent this is to upgrade to chromoly shafts with full circle clips AND, maintain your Jeep.
Makes sense! Yeah I try to maintain mine as much as I can. I thought about doing RCVs but I don’t want to deal with the possible clicking noise they create.
 
Unpopular opinion went the Currie 60/60 hybrid route (only due to wanting a bigger ring and pinion after the v8 swap). I felt like I was in borrowed time in my current set up in the D44s. Over all I’m happy with it so far and only pulled the trigger after talking to the folks at synergy since they have been running it in their JL for a few years now on 40s and regularly jump the thing. Only issue they said to avoid is getting it in a high pinion rear since they blew the diff twice but never had an issue bending a flange.

However if I could go back I would go FF if only for the added peace of mind and ability to go to 42 if I wanted to. So I would take the advice people are giving you.

If price is an issue you can always go with upgraded rear shafts in a 5x5.5 pattern and go with a FF Currie front in that same pattern and upgrade the rear later.
 
Unpopular opinion went the Currie 60/60 hybrid route (only due to wanting a bigger ring and pinion after the v8 swap). I felt like I was in borrowed time in my current set up in the D44s. Over all I’m happy with it so far and only pulled the trigger after talking to the folks at synergy since they have been running it in their JL for a few years now on 40s and regularly jump the thing. Only issue they said to avoid is getting it in a high pinion rear since they blew the diff twice but never had an issue bending a flange.

However if I could go back I would go FF if only for the added peace of mind and ability to go to 42 if I wanted to. So I would take the advice people are giving you.

If price is an issue you can always go with upgraded rear shafts in a 5x5.5 pattern and go with a FF Currie front in that same pattern and upgrade the rear later.
Great to hear positive feedback from them! Ignorant question does Currie even make a high pinion axle in those hybrid axels?
 
Great to hear positive feedback from them! Ignorant question does Currie even make a high pinion axle in those hybrid axels?
Not sure, I believe they had that one custom made with that center section.

Positive only in that they work but the flange will always be the weak point like others has said. And now I’m kinda stuck in a situation where if I want to go bigger I’m buying new axles again. Only silver lining is that I can transfer them to my wife’s rig if I ever decide to upgrade.

Just saying if time and money isn’t an issue go FF the first time. The factory axles a plenty strong and spending a fraction of the money reinforcing or just go with a UD44. This has been proven to be really reliable with up to 38s. Again the only reason I switched them out was due to the swap.
 
Not sure, I believe they had that one custom made with that center section.

Positive only in that they work but the flange will always be the weak point like others has said. And now I’m kinda stuck in a situation where if I want to go bigger I’m buying new axles again. Only silver lining is that I can transfer them to my wife’s rig if I ever decide to upgrade.

Just saying if time and money isn’t an issue go FF the first time. The factory axles a plenty strong and spending a fraction of the money reinforcing or just go with a UD44. This has been proven to be really reliable with up to 38s. Again the only reason I switched them out was due to the swap.
Totally understand. What size tires are you running?
 
38’s but there a lot I don’t thing your taking into consideration.

With a 60 you lose ground clearance due to the larger center section when running any size smaller than a 40. The ball joints in the hybrid set up are a lot smaller than on a FF 60 since it’s the D44 outer. You’re still going to be running the 32 spline outer shafts and the hub bearings are still stock. Not to mention you lose out in upgraded brakes, improved steering geometry and 70 inch wide axles (Currie)

While the axles will work, you really are losing out on a lot dollar per dollar it’s not worth it. Especially since both the front and rear went up 1K in price.
 
Look to ECG for axles better and cheaper IMO...if your worried about clearance get the front shaved. You could also shave the rear.
Price them out and compare what you can get. Plus get them bare and put the mounts etc exactly where you want them.
 
Look to ECG for axles better and cheaper IMO...if your worried about clearance get the front shaved. You could also shave the rear.
Price them out and compare what you can get. Plus get them bare and put the mounts etc exactly where you want them.
How much does ECG pay you to ride their dick that hard?
 
Look to ECG for axles better and cheaper IMO...if your worried about clearance get the front shaved. You could also shave the rear.
Price them out and compare what you can get. Plus get them bare and put the mounts etc exactly where you want them.
Welcome back. Perfect timing and post content as usual.
 
the folks at synergy since they have been running it in their JL for a few years now on 40s and regularly jump the thing.

Dude, I love Synergy.
Saw those guys at EJS and checked out their new long arm kit that they were testing.

They were all “watch this video on my phone of us jumping it!!”

Always jumping that thing haha…
 
The funniest thing about this thread is having folks gripe about breaking stuff. If anyone here has been into Toyota's you would know how common this is on the 8" Axles and when they switched to IFS. There is a local here who is running 40's on stock JTR axles -trussed with 5.13 gears... and has been now for a few years (without issues) - granted I don't think he's running the hardest trails the country has to offer but he's definitely been a regular at the hardest trails we have around me. Sooner or later he is going to break something - but with Jeeps the threshold i've found is much higher. You can't even fit 33's on a 5th gen 4runner without cutting into the body mount (i.e. hacking a piece of the frame off). Or the hell we would go through back in the day to run a 33 on a Toyota (meanwhile all my friends in CJ's/YJ's (even XJ's and ZJ's) faired way better. Moral of the story is - you will be fine on the stock axles - unless your trying to jump it over obstacles - at some point they will break - but so will anything else if you run it long enough or push it hard enough.
 
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