Dynatrac Prosteer Ball Joints Install

[BONDSY]

Well shortly after "The Rockin Rubicon 2010" trip, and with less than 15000mi. on the odometer, a slight shimmy in the front end indicated to me some steering issues were beginning to occur. Sure enough after some inspection, I discovered both upper ball joints had failed.

So with that being known I ordered the complete set of Dynatrac Prosteers.

****Important****
Ordering the install kit from Dynatrac will greatly aid in the install of these Prosteers.

I needed the proper press so I bought this.
KD Tools- Ball Joint Press/ Model #KDS3421
KD Tools- Ram-Jeep Adapter Set/ Model #KDS3479

Also I bought Anti-Seize, brake cleaner, red grease, wire brush, and GoJo.
Other tools you will need are:
1/2 drive Ratchet, breaker bar, torque wrench
3/8 drive ratchet, breaker bar, torque wrench
13mm 12pt. socket
19mm socket and end wrench
21mm socket
22mm socket
1 1/8" socket
1 1/16" socket
1 1/2" socket
7/8" socket
15/16" socket
Pry bar
Pickle fork, Big hammer
5mm Hex key
Giant Crescent wrench
needle nose pliers
zip ties
4 ton jack and 4 stands

BTW: This is not a definitive install write up. I'm not a certified mechanic.
I do not have a stock Jeep, so you may or may not need to do additional steps to achieve the install depending on your mods or the lack of them.
If you have a general knowledge of your Jeep it will help as I did not take pics of every step.
This is my first write up. I'll try to be thorough.

1) With a 4 ton floor jack and 6 ton stands I began my install by supporting my Jeep using the frame rails.

2) I used a 19mm deep socket loosen your lugs, jack up the axle and support the axle using two more stands, remove the wheels.
3) I used a 19mm ratchet and end wrench to remove the steering stabilizer and I taped it to the tierod.

4) Remove the cotter pins from both tierod ends. I used a 1 1/16" socket to loosen both castle nut till only a few threads remained. With a hammer I taped firmly on the top of the nut causing the tapered rod end to unseat. You could use a puller, I did not. Remove the castle nuts, set Tie rod to the side.

5) Remove cotter pin from the draglink rod end on the axle side only. I used the same 1 1/16" socket and process as the tierod to remove the draglink. Tape up out of the way. In the pic below the bottom is the tierod the top is the draglink.

This is what it will look like with the tierod end and draglink removed.

6) I used a 21 mm socket and removed the two bolts attaching the brake caliper to the steering knuckles. Gently remove the brake caliper and use a zip tie to attach it to the lower control arm. The next pic is of me tightening the bolt but you get the idea.

 

[BONDSY]

7) Use a 5mm hex key to carefully remove the wheel speed sensor. I had to use a small flat head screwdriver to gently pry it loose. Be very cautious when handling this. Gently pull the sensor out and work it through the space in which it's routed. Work the wire from the two mounting tabs, then hang wire with the caliper as in the previous pic.

7) Next, using a 13mm 12point socket remove the 3 bolts attaching the hub assembly to the steering knuckles.

8) Gently pull hub and axle shafts out, turning as you pull. As a precaution I put paper towels into the axle tube to keep junk out.

9) Remove cotter pins from ball joints then loosen castle nuts till only a few threads remain. I used a 1 1/8 socket for the lower, 22mm socket for the upper.
10) Leaving at least one castle nut on, I then used a pickle fork placed at the top ball joint between the knuckle and end forging. With a 3lb. hammer and a few solid hits I separated the steering knuckle from the end forging.
Remove the nuts and knuckle. Sorry no pics of this step.
11) Following the supplied instructions included with the ball joint removal kit we pressed out the upper ball joints first. With the proper adapters we made easy work of this. then we pressed out the lowers.

12) Thoroughly wire brush the bore to which the new ball joint will be installed. I used a Dremel tool and a wire brush attachment to clean two two holes. Use brake cleaner to remove any dirt or residue.
13) Following the Dynatrac instructions for installing their ball joint kit we started with the lowers first.
I also bought their recommended install tool to prevent any damage to the ball joints.
Add a generous amount of anti-sieze to the ball joint bodies then press them in making sure they are completely seated. Clean off excess anti-sieze.

14) For the uppers I had to remove the retaining clip, then using the same process and per the instructions,
add the anti-sieze to the upper ball joint bodies and press them in making sure they are seated all the way in. Clean off excess anti-sieze.

A side note: Axle droop affected the ability to get the press to align properly while pressing in the uppers. So you may have to make adjustment to the axle droop with a
floor jack. Also, as was the case with me some diff. fluid may leak out from the tube.
15) Again I used a wire brush to clean the steering knuckle paying special attention to the holes, bolt holes and the large hole, just wire brush the whole thing and hit it with brake cleaner too.
16) Reattach the steering knuckle onto the ball joints and fasten the castle nuts. With a 7/8" socket, First torque upper ball joint crown nuts to 35lbs. With a 15/16" socket Then torque the lower ball joint crown nuts to 70lbs. Torque the uppers to 70lbs. Torque the lowers to 105lbs. Proceed to torque till the next available slot. Insert cotter pins and bend the ends.

 

[BONDSY]

17) Clean the splines on the axle shaft with brake cleaner as well as the axle shaft, wiping away from the splines. I used grease to lube the splines as the will need to easily slip through the inner seal.
18) Remove the paper towel from the axle tube. Carefully reinsert the axle shaft sliding it into the tube. As you meet the seal, carefully without forcing through, gently twist the axle shaft as you insert the axle the rest of the way. The splines need to align. If you have to force it, something is not right. Mine went right in without issue. Easier than I thought.
19) Reinstall the speed sensor routing it through the way it was taken out. Its easier while the brake disk protector thingy is loose. 5mm hex key. The torque value is measured in. inch pounds. So I tightened it snugly. Attach the wire to the tabs.
20) Insert the three bolts connecting the hub to the steering knuckle, making sure the brake protector thingy is in the right place. 13mm 12pt. socket, torque these to 75lbs. Use lock tight if you want.

21) Place the disk back onto the studs and the caliper over the disk. I didn't have to collapse the caliper. Insert the 2 bolts, 21mm socket, torque to 110lbs.

22) Reinstall the draglink first, 1 1/16 socket, torque to 63lbs. Then reinstall the tierod second, 1 1/16 socket, torque to 63lbs. Tighten these till the next available slot. Stick in the cotter pins and bend the ends.
23) Using the 19mm socket and end wrench put back on the steering stabilizer. Put the wheels back on, torque to 110lbs. Remove the stands, wash your hands, and pat yourself on the back. You just saved your wallet $500.00 in labor to install these.

One more thing, You may or may not need to recenter your steering wheel. Take the Jeep for a spin. If your steering wheel is off a few degree's adjust the draglink.

Like I said, I'm no certified mechanic. I do have a general knowledge of my Jeep.
This was middle easy. It took 5.5 hours. Thanks to Jeepsanddrums for the helping hand. I have good tools, you should too before attempting this job.
I hope this gives you an idea of what all is involved.

 

[Robar]

Awesome write up Tom. :thumb:

 

[Rockaddiction]

Thank you for sharing this! Very informative and clear.

 

[BONDSY]

Thank you for sharing this! Very informative and clear.

No problem.:clap2:

 

[BTkillerr]

I hope I dont have to do this anytime soon! Very nice writeup!
I'm not a great mechanic but one thing I remember from other jobs I've done is, as long as you have the disc breaks off its a good time to check the discs and pads. If the pads need replacing its a no brainer. If not touch them up with a little light sand paper to take any shiny spots off. There are a lot of mechanic types on this site so PLEASE help me out and be a lot more specific than me. Also, as I like to combine jobs if I can, this would be a great time to replace some worn out bushings like on drag links, control arms, etc. Like Eddy says, I'd rather be wheeling than turning wrenches. Not his exact words lol.

BTKillerr

 

[JandSJK]

Getting ready you do the ball joints on my jeep. Where did you get your ball joint press from.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using WAYALIFE mobile app

 

[aldaman]

Great write-up, thanks for sharing :thumb:

 

[The Wandering Jeeper]

Great write up. The Dynatrac ball joints is the second modification I did to my Jeep when I bought it just over a year ago. At 1500 miles one of the top ball joints had failed and it was still stock at that time.

 

[MAMUT]

Great write up. The Dynatrac ball joints is the second modification I did to my Jeep when I bought it just over a year ago. At 1500 miles one of the top ball joints had failed and it was still stock at that time.

So which one failed, the stock ball joint or the Dynatrac

 

[Sharkey]

Pretty sure it was the stocker.

 

[Dick Knife]

Great write up. The Dynatrac ball joints is the second modification I did to my Jeep when I bought it just over a year ago. At 1500 miles one of the top ball joints had failed and it was still stock at that time.

Ugh... I've got 3,500 miles on my '13 and suppose I should take a look before April 14th... MOAB time. Still stock suspension, but... um... yeah. :doh:

 

[snopro]

Ugh... I've got 3,500 miles on my '13 and suppose I should take a look before April 14th... MOAB time. Still stock suspension, but... um... yeah. :doh:

Keep an eye on your u joints, my friend blew his out on his 2013 rubicon the other weekend with only 6500 miles on his. He runs a 3.5 lift and 35 Duratracks.
Was in loose wet snow not even got far onto the trail!!!

 

[utiadam]

Can anyone chime in as to what type of grease should be used on the ball joints? I think I have some heavy duty wheel bearing grease I was using on the control arms. Does it matter?

 

[Hangemhigh1]

Thank you for this write up. I've been weighing out whether to do this myself. The more I become familiar with the process, the more I think I can do it. I'll let you know how it turned out. Thanks again [emoji1360]


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[Hangemhigh1]

Axle won’t go back in on passenger side.

I’m replacing my ball joints. I started on the passenger side. After replacing the ball joints I started the reassembly process. I cleaned up my axle shaft, greased the splines, installed the 2 plastic guide rings and tried to put the shaft back. It only goes in about half way and there is resistance. I feel it pass what seems to be the seal , but beyond that it won’t go any further.has anyone come across this type of thing

 

[nbunga]

I’m replacing my ball joints. I started on the passenger side. After replacing the ball joints I started the reassembly process. I cleaned up my axle shaft, greased the splines, installed the 2 plastic guide rings and tried to put the shaft back. It only goes in about half way and there is resistance. I feel it pass what seems to be the seal , but beyond that it won’t go any further.has anyone come across this type of thing
View attachment 322296

Looks like you have a rubicon. You’re putting the correct side in I assume. Doesn’t look like it’s even far enough in to reach the splines.

 

[WJCO]

I’m replacing my ball joints. I started on the passenger side. After replacing the ball joints I started the reassembly process. I cleaned up my axle shaft, greased the splines, installed the 2 plastic guide rings and tried to put the shaft back. It only goes in about half way and there is resistance. I feel it pass what seems to be the seal , but beyond that it won’t go any further.has anyone come across this type of thing

You made sure there were no other plastic guide rings in the tube? Sometimes there can be a one, sometimes there can be a few.

 

[USMC Wrangler]

Other than what the others have mentioned, are you kind of tilting the shaft up a bit to make sure the splines clear the seal? I’ve left my guides in place the two times I’ve pulled mine but still had to wiggle the shaft up and down a bit to get them to seat.