DTD Maintenance Schedule?

Basscat

Member
Was curious what kind of maintenance schedule is required on the DTD suspension. I realize it's likely dependent on use but "on average" what has to be done and at what intervals? Specifically:

1) triple bypass shocks (rebuild?)
2) Evolever - bushings serviced?, lubrication?, general tightening of nuts and bolts?, cleaning?, etc
3) coil overs?

I realize all coil over systems make little noise due to Hiem joints but does DTD make more noise than a normal coil over set up due to Evolever? OR is it relatively quiet?

How often do parts have to be replaced? If so which parts?

Thanks as usual,


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I can't give any help on the servicing schedule of the shocks, but I check the torque and re-grease all the suspension joints, including the Evo Lever joints and pivot bushings. My suspension is quiet on the road when it has clean grease in it. I also wipe down the grim joints to get rid of any dirt/dust on them. They are teflon lined heims so they are self cleaning.

Offroad here in AZ I frequently drive on very dusty roads/trails, and when dust gets into the suspension joints it will start to squeak slightly. It squeaks and knocks anytime the suspension flexes a few inches or more, which is normal with the Johnny joints in the control arms.

Coilovers themselves tend to be noisy as well due to the dual rate slider sliding up and down the shock body, and bottoming out on the stop rings when you get enough compression.

As far as parts being replaced, I'd say that depends on how long it takes any joints and bushings to get enough play to warrant replacing, which will depend on proper preventive maintenance.


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Last edited:
I can't give any help on the servicing schedule of the shocks, but I check the torque and re-grease all the suspension joints, including the Evo Lever joints and pivot bushings. My suspension is quiet on the road when it has clean grease in it. I also wipe down the grim joints to get rid of any dirt/dust on them. They are teflon lined heims so they are self cleaning.

Offroad here in AZ I frequently drive on very dusty roads/trails, and when dust gets into the suspension joints it will start to squeak slightly. It squeaks and knocks anytime the suspension flexes a few inches or more, which is normal with the Johnny joints in the control arms.

Coilovers themselves tend to be noisy as well due to the dual rate slider sliding up and down the shock body, and bottoming out on the stop rings when you get enough compression.

As far as parts being replaced, I'd say that depends on how long it takes any joints and bushings to get enough play to warrant replacing, which will depend on proper preventive maintenance.


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So it sounds like the difference in level of maintenance between DTD and Double Down Pro is obviously all Evolever? Assuming you're wheeling pretty regularly, and from forum it sounds like you do, how often are you up under that thing cleaning bushings, wiping it down, adding fresh grease, tightening bolts, etc?
1) every time you go out?
2) once a week?
3) once a Month?
4) ?

In other words how much effort does it take to keep it quiet?

Sincerely appreciate your time.


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As you have noted, the rebuilding of your coil overs and bypass shocks really depends on how often and how hard you use them. Driving around town or even rock crawling won't wear them out the way bombing across the desert for extended periods of time will.

As mentioned, the coil can/will rub the timing ring and that can be a little noisy. The heims on the coil overs and linkage WILL wear out over time and will need to be replaced. Could be years - could be months before they need to go. Again, when you need to do this will depend on how often, how hard and where you use your Jeep.

If you run an EVO lever, you WILL need to have the exhaust dump before the axle. If I recall, you have an LS and that will put out quite a bit of heat. Since moving to my LS, I have found that this heat will wear out the grease in the driver side control arm joints and that causes them to creak pretty loudly.
 
As you have noted, the rebuilding of your coil overs and bypass shocks really depends on how often and how hard you use them. Driving around town or even rock crawling won't wear them out the way bombing across the desert for extended periods of time will.

As mentioned, the coil can/will rub the timing ring and that can be a little noisy. The heims on the coil overs and linkage WILL wear out over time and will need to be replaced. Could be years - could be months before they need to go. Again, when you need to do this will depend on how often, how hard and where you use your Jeep.

If you run an EVO lever, you WILL need to have the exhaust dump before the axle. If I recall, you have an LS and that will put out quite a bit of heat. Since moving to my LS, I have found that this heat will wear out the grease in the driver side control arm joints and that causes them to creak pretty loudly.

Excellent! Really appreciate this feedback fellas. It's helping tremendously with DTD vs DDP decision.

Follow up question: Do you find the Currie Antirock rear sway bar to be just a tad bit stiffer on the road? I'm not talking universal swaybar with adjustments but rather straight up JK rear aluminum arm antirock. I'm guessing yes? Due to beafier bar? That's kind of what I'm looking for but not sure of difference between Antirock and stock.


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Excellent! Really appreciate this feedback fellas. It's helping tremendously with DTD vs DDP decision.

LOL!! Honestly, if you have to think about whether or not you want a DTD, you really shouldn't get it. Without question, it is not for you.

Follow up question: Do you find the Currie Antirock rear sway bar to be just a tad bit stiffer on the road? I'm not talking universal swaybar with adjustments but rather straight up JK rear aluminum arm antirock. I'm guessing yes? Due to beafier bar? That's kind of what I'm looking for but not sure of difference between Antirock and stock.

While I love Currie Johnny Joints and even their impressive steering components and recommend both all the time, I seriously cannot stand their Antirock sway bar. They end up squeaking like a banshee, feel way too soft on mountain roads and are way too stiff on the rocks and enough so that it WILL limit your flex. If it were really as good as the fanboys claim it to be, I would be running a set on both my JK's now. But then, I'm just a mall crawler so what would I know.
 
LOL!! Honestly, if you have to think about whether or not you want a DTD, you really shouldn't get it. Without question, it is not for you.



While I love Currie Johnny Joints and even their impressive steering components and recommend both all the time, I seriously cannot stand their Antirock sway bar. They end up squeaking like a banshee, feel way too soft on mountain roads and are way too stiff on the rocks and enough so that it WILL limit your flex. If it were really as good as the fanboys claim it to be, I would be running a set on both my JK's now. But then, I'm just a mall crawler so what would I know.

OK Mall Crawler. Appreciate the insight. Thanks again guys.


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I cant find the picture anymore, but I know Mel posted a good chart about suggest service intervals.
 
Today I received my order from trail jeeps of the evo lever system. Missing the coilovers. I received two box from fedex. Im assuming its suppose to be 3 boxes. The lighter box had the bypass shocks. How many packages is it suppose to be?


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Today I received my order from trail jeeps of the evo lever system. Missing the coilovers. I received two box from fedex. Im assuming its suppose to be 3 boxes. The lighter box had the bypass shocks. How many packages is it suppose to be?


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I believe mine came in 4 boxes. Evo Lever subframe and bump stop relocation brackets in a huge box, cantilever bell cranks, heim joints, links, limit straps, and some brackets and all the miscellaneous hardware in a box, coilovers in a box, and bypass shocks in a box.


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Awesome, thank you! Obviously it depends how much/how hard the suspension is used, but what is the average life cycle of the grease?


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While it's far from necessary, I typically add a little grease to all my joints once every oil change. If nothing else, it pushes out any dirt that may have gotten in the joint as well as the old grease and fills it with some fresh grease.
 
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