Drop Pitman Arm

[GP NOIR]

My 2012 Wrangler Rubicon came with an aftermarket lift kit. A drop pitman arm and a standard (under the knuckle) drag link is used.

The pitman arm nut worked loose with the attendant steering problems. I tightened it with a 1 1/4 socket made of Chineseum (more about that later) and it worked loose again.

The plan is to replace the drop pitman arm with a factory pitman arm and install a flip drag link (over the knuckle). Drag link & new tie rod are on order and I'm impatiently waiting for them to come in.

In the meantime, the loose dropped pitman arm is playing mind games with the ESC. I tried tightening the nut again, but that didn't work. The factory pitman arm is here along with a new nut & lock washer.

The lift measures at 3.75 over stock height. Not Rubicon stock height, but standard Wrangler stock height. Can I install the factory pitman arm with the factory drag link installed until the flipped drag link comes in? Or will the bump steer be too severe? Currently, the steering has enough wander I have to pay constant attention, especially with the ESC engaged. The Jeep is my daily and need it to get to and from work.

Did the drop pitman arm damage the steering box sector arm?

What size is the pitman arm nut? I suspect, but haven't been able to verify it's 34mm. I'm asking because I haven't been able to find a socket or wrench locally that fits and need to order something online. I don't want to use the Chineseum 1 1/4 socket because it doesn't really fit. I only got it to work by tapping it on with a hammer, then prying it off when I was done and it doesn't stay on the nut very well while torquing.

Thanks!

 

[wayoflife]

A loose dropped pitman arm at the sector shaft was very common back in the JK days. You can add a washer - A REALLY BIG WASHER to help get it on tighter but finding one that big will be difficult.

That said, is it safe to say you have some kind of track bar relocation installed? One would be NEEDED to help keep it parallel to your drag link and not having one would result in poor handling and bump steer sensations. Assuming that you do, just remove the relocation bracket and install a factory pitman arm and call it a day.

 

[jeeeep]

My 2012 Wrangler Rubicon came with an aftermarket lift kit. A drop pitman arm and a standard (under the knuckle) drag link is used.

The pitman arm nut worked loose with the attendant steering problems. I tightened it with a 1 1/4 socket made of Chineseum (more about that later) and it worked loose again.

The plan is to replace the drop pitman arm with a factory pitman arm and install a flip drag link (over the knuckle). Drag link & new tie rod are on order and I'm impatiently waiting for them to come in.

In the meantime, the loose dropped pitman arm is playing mind games with the ESC. I tried tightening the nut again, but that didn't work. The factory pitman arm is here along with a new nut & lock washer.

The lift measures at 3.75 over stock height. Not Rubicon stock height, but standard Wrangler stock height. Can I install the factory pitman arm with the factory drag link installed until the flipped drag link comes in? Or will the bump steer be too severe? Currently, the steering has enough wander I have to pay constant attention, especially with the ESC engaged. The Jeep is my daily and need it to get to and from work.

Did the drop pitman arm damage the steering box sector arm?

What size is the pitman arm nut? I suspect, but haven't been able to verify it's 34mm. I'm asking because I haven't been able to find a socket or wrench locally that fits and need to order something online. I don't want to use the Chineseum 1 1/4 socket because it doesn't really fit. I only got it to work by tapping it on with a hammer, then prying it off when I was done and it doesn't stay on the nut very well while torquing.

Thanks!

my local Lowes or Northern Tool is where I found the larger metric sockets.

Take the nut with you, it could be 32mm or 34mm

On my JKU, the bump steer was felt when hitting a bump, it sucked but not uncontrollable

 

[GP NOIR]

A loose dropped pitman arm at the sector shaft was very common back in the JK days. You can add a washer - A REALLY BIG WASHER to help get it on tighter but finding one that big will be difficult.

That said, is it safe to say you have some kind of track bar relocation installed? One would be NEEDED to help keep it parallel to your drag link and not having one would result in poor handling and bump steer sensations. Assuming that you do, just remove the relocation bracket and install a factory pitman arm and call it a day.

I’m not sure if a track bar relocation bracket was installed or not. Here’s a photo of the track bar bracket at the axle-

 

[GP NOIR]

my local Lowes or Northern Tool is where I found the larger metric sockets.

Take the nut with you, it could be 32mm or 34mm

On my JKU, the bump steer was felt when hitting a bump, it sucked but not uncontrollable

I did take the nut with me. The wrench/socket available locally is 32mm (which is too small) or 36mm (which is too large).

I’m gonna try Autozone next. Their website says they have it in stock.

 

[wayoflife]

I’m not sure if a track bar relocation bracket was installed or not. Here’s a photo of the track bar bracket at the axle-

View attachment 379568

You have a relocation bracket installed. Remove it and Install the track bar on the lower hole that has a bolt on it now. Remove reinstall the factory pitman arm and call it a day.

 

[GP NOIR]

You have a relocation bracket installed. Remove it and Install the track bar on the lower hole that has a bolt on it now. Remove reinstall the factory pitman arm and call it a day.

Very well.

Here's another question- not because I know better, but because my knowledge and experience in setting up JK steering and suspension is limited. I ordered a flip drag link because searching the internet lead me to believe that's what I needed to correct the angles using a factory pitman arm with a lift. Is there any reason to NOT use the flipped drag link? If I don't, it means sending it back (most likely on my dime) and exchanging it for an under the knuckle drag link. Drilling out the knuckle and installing the flip drag link is a simple task, simpler than exchanging it.

I'm changing the track bar because I bent it. Not from hitting a rock, but from steering hard on the trail. I felt it give. Once in the rocks and again when I made a hard turn bombing down a sand ravine.

If I remove the track bar relocation bracket, is the long term solution a longer/adjustable track bar?

 

[wayoflife]

There are benefits to having your drag link AND track bar more parallel to your axle as they will provide better handling. IF you decide to install it, you NEED to make sure that you install a track bar relocation bracket that will provide the same amount of correction. AS IN, so that the track bar will sit parallel to the drag link. This 'may' require that you buy and install a different relocation bracket than what you have installed now.

 

[GP NOIR]

There are benefits to having your drag link AND track bar more parallel to your axle as they will provide better handling. IF you decide to install it, you NEED to make sure that you install a track bar relocation bracket that will provide the same amount of correction. AS IN, so that the track bar will sit parallel to the drag link. This 'may' require that you buy and install a different relocation bracket than what you have installed now.

This is good to know. Improved handling is what I’m after!

I’ll take closer look at the angles when the drag link comes in. If they look good, I’ll install the flip drag link and change the track bar relocation bracket, if needed, so drag link and track bar are parallel.

Thanks for all your help!

 

[GP NOIR]

Installed the factory pitman arm and the 1 ton tie rod.



The pitman arm connects to the steering box sector shaft with splines. The drop pitman arm wouldn't tighten because because the splined hole was wallowed out. It wouldn't matter how much torque I applied or if I stacked more washers under the nut, the pitman arm would still be loose. It was wallowed out because of the extra length acted as a lever to increase stress.

The track bar bracket wasn't removed because the new over the knuckle drag link should be arriving Monday or Tuesday. I didn't want to remove teh bracket only to reinstall it a couple days later. With the new factory pitman arm installed, the angle between track bar and drag link is off. I can feel the steering change each time I step on or let up up on the throttle. I can't wait for the new drag link to arrive.

The 1 ton tie rod came with a warning that if the rims didn't have the correct backspace, they would rub. I've got rubbing. I can't afford new rims, so I'm gonna try wheel spacers. I don't know much about wheel spacers as I've never used them before.

What should I look for in a spacer? Are there spacers that should be avoided? Do I need to install spacers in the front and rear, or can I install spacers just in the front?

 

[jeeeep]

What should I look for in a spacer? Are there spacers that should be avoided? Do I need to install spacers in the front and rear, or can I install spacers just in the front?

1.5" is common, make sure it is not a universal type, get the correct bolt pattern that's hub centric 6061-T6 aluminum with pre-installed studs.

You'll find them in 1.25" and 1.75", I wouldn't go under 1.5" or you may have to trim the existing wheel studs and that's a PIA

Rough Country, Alloy, USA, Synergy. Stay away from Terra Flex, they're cheap for a reason...

If you live in a high rust area, I'd get anodized over raw aluminum

Only fronts is fine, just note those tires will stick out more than the rear.

I got both front and rear for symmetry. It will cause more stress on the hubs and depending on how often you go off-road and the types of trails it may cause them to wear more quickly.

welcome to the land of Jeep (Just Empty Every Pocket) mods. 1 ton tie rods are great but as you've found out, it can lead to additional mods.

 

[GP NOIR]

Got the spacers and had them installed (@Discount Tire continues to please with awesome customer service. They rotated the tires and installed the spaces at no cost to me).

Over the knuckle drag link came in late Tuesday afternoon. Got the knuckle drilled and the link installed and adjusted. Steering is much better, but some fine tuning is still required. Gonna take it in to the alignment shop.

Control arms have caster adjustments. Not ideal, but it’s what I’ve got to work with for now.

I’d work on it myself, but I had surgery on Wednesday and can’t lift more than 20lbs for a few weeks. Don’t get a hernia, boys & girls. If you see one on the discount table, don’t even pick it up. They’re more trouble than they’re worth.