Brake line fix opinions wanted

Highpocketse5

Highpocketse5

Member
Screen Shot 2016-06-01 at 6.49.16 PM.jpg
I dropped my Jeep off at the Dealership Earlier today to have the rear axle seals and bearings replaced and I get a call that the dealership found this.
Has anyone seen this issue before?

Is there a fix other than replacing the whole line from the Master Cylinder to the rear of the Jeep?

What would be your best suggestion to prevent this from happening again?
 
So long as the line isn't leaking, you could just straighten it out the best you can. If it is leaking at the connector, you can cut the hard line, re-flare the end and reinstall it like nothing ever happened. You will need to straighten out the hard line a bit but it should be fine. To prevent it from happening again, try to bend in your drop bracket so that your sway bar link stud clears it.
 
wayoflife said:
So long as the line isn't leaking, you could just straighten it out the best you can. If it is leaking at the connector, you can cut the hard line, re-flare the end and reinstall it like nothing ever happened. You will need to straighten out the hard line a bit but it should be fine. To prevent it from happening again, try to bend in your drop bracket so that your sway bar link stud clears it.
Click to expand...

The line is creased or almost completely pinched where the rear torsion caught it and pulled it down. If I cut the bad section out and added a longer flexible brake line do you think that would work? I'd like to change things so this doesn't happen again.
 
Highpocketse5 said:
The line is creased or almost completely pinched where the rear torsion caught it and pulled it down. If I cut the bad section out and added a longer flexible brake line do you think that would work? I'd like to change things so this doesn't happen again.
Click to expand...

You won't need to install a longer line. You can straighten out your hard line and you'll have plenty of length. Trust me, I have seen this happen plenty of times and have been able to fix it without any issues or need for a longer line. You will need a small tube cutter and a flare set to fix this though.
 
I rerouted mine. Not really necessary, but something to look into.
 

Attachments

  • 1464834899742.jpg
    1464834899742.jpg
    85.6 KB · Views: 103
olram30 said:
I have better pictures in my build thread. New phone and don't have much.
Click to expand...

Thanks found them.... Looks like I have a project to plan for. I'm going to relocate and repair the existing hard line. Do you happen to have anything that shows how you ran the hard line?
 
Highpocketse5 said:
Thanks found them.... Looks like I have a project to plan for. I'm going to relocate and repair the existing hard line. Do you happen to have anything that shows how you ran the hard line?
Click to expand...

Just ran it on top, making sure the body wasn't close so no chance of the body pinching the line if it moved. I'll try to take better pictures. Still works good after a year with no problems
 
This happened to my pass side. I found a new hard line through mopar online website (haven't purchased yet) for less than $20 if I remember right. I think the driver side was Evan cheaper as it was less line. I'll try to look tomorrow on the computer.
 
I did that on mine too flexing it out and making adjustments. Ended up getting shorter sway bar bolts and bending the line in so it sits closer to the frame. No more issues.
 
mudmobeeler said:
This happened to my pass side. I found a new hard line through mopar online website (haven't purchased yet) for less than $20 if I remember right. I think the driver side was Evan cheaper as it was less line. I'll try to look tomorrow on the computer.
Click to expand...

Ok, I had them backwards. The driver side is $29.20 and runs from the master cylinder all the way to the flex hose at the rear wheel so it might be fun to replace. The passenger side is $12.60 and runs from a cross member towards the back to the flex line at the wheel. So it doesn't look hard to replace. At least these are the prices off of the website, I have not priced it at the dealer yet.
 
Last edited:
mudmobeeler said:
Ok, I had them backwards. The driver side is $29.20 and runs from the master cylinder all the way to the flex hose at the rear wheel so it might be fun to replace. The passenger side is $12.60 and runs from a cross member towards the back to the flex line at the wheel. So it doesn't look hard to replace. At least these are the prices off of the website, I have not priced it at the dealer yet.
Click to expand...

That's gonna be a tough job. More than likely the lines are installed at the factory before the body is put on. That is a great price though for a mopar part. Good luck to you!!
 
Again, there is ZERO need to replace the entire hard line. You just need to bend it straight, cut the end off, reinstall the nut, flare the end and then reinstall. It's really simple and can be done in minutes.
 
JeepJeep75 said:
That's gonna be a tough job. More than likely the lines are installed at the factory before the body is put on. That is a great price though for a mopar part. Good luck to you!!
Click to expand...

The pass one doesn't look all that bad. But I could be wrong. We shall see.

wayoflife said:
Again, there is ZERO need to replace the entire hard line. You just need to bend it straight, cut the end off, reinstall the nut, flare the end and then reinstall. It's really simple and can be done in minutes.
Click to expand...

Not saying you have to replace the line and that you cant fix it the way your describing. I am just preferring to replace the line. Your method works also and is a viable option. :thumb:
 
As Eddie has stated, it's not to hard to repair brake lines. You can get short pieces of brake line from the auto parts store to practice on. Also picked up a great tip from the interwebs: whenever you open the brake system, if you have the brake pedal pushed down (a stick or board in between the seat and pedal), it closes off the supply from the reservoir and won't empty it out and dribble all over the place. Just crack open the bleeder valve on the caliper first, then do your repair on the line.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom